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stalling problem

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Old 10-08-2003, 07:35 AM
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Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 305
Transmission: Auto
stalling problem

i have a 91 rs mfi with 125k miles it has always idled wacky and now it stalls but only when in drive,most of the time it stalls when i go from park to drive or reverse but if i leave it sit in park it will run all day,the car has a new fuel filter,plugs,distributor pickup,air filter,and oil
Old 10-08-2003, 04:49 PM
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Take care of the rest of the major tuneup stuff and see if it goes away. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=162251 Don't leave anything out!
Old 10-09-2003, 03:42 AM
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Car: Chevy Cobalt & Camaro
Engine: 2.2 DOHC/3.1
Transmission: Not so slushy slush box/Slush Box
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23
I am having the same problem... but after about 2weeks of that it started to stall in park at idle but it takes a few min to stall... And now I am having problems starting it back up.. My lights dim and the starter seems to have trouble cranking the engine.. It’s like when a solenoid is going but it’s not that... I am clueless.. I was just gonna change my coil to a super coil. and a few other things.. Just start experimenting on things..
Old 10-09-2003, 03:06 PM
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Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 305
Transmission: Auto
i really dont feel like doin a major tuneup cause the car is up forsale now i just need to get it to stop stalling so it can sell
Old 10-09-2003, 03:20 PM
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87CamaroMan
Check both your Alt and battery.

syknesss

Check you EGR valve. Disconect the EGR to intake tube plug the hole in the intake and see if the problem continues. Tape a pice of card board to it. You don't want a rag getting sucked in. If it goes a way your EGR valve is stuck open. Chepeat route would be to get one from the scrap yard. It will run about $75 from the scrap yard, but make sure the plate at the bottom is not cracked.

The digital EGR's don't clean well. Every time I have pulled it a part to clean it dies with 1 month.

Brand new they are about $200 - $350 depending on ware you go.

Also check your fuel presure. When My fuel pump died it acted like this. I have a stick, but it is the same concept. I could get it to idle but as soon as I engaged 1st gear it would die. It was only giving me 15PSI. Tom correct me if I am wrong, but the fuel presure should be 35 - 40PSI.

Fuel pump replacments are a major pain, or a major dip in the wallet if you have some one else do it. I was charged $800. I had a shop do it becuase it left 100 miles a way from home with no tools.

These in tank fuel pumps don't die slowly over time liek the old pumps. On day you will turn the car off get back in and start it up and the pump fails.
Old 10-09-2003, 04:25 PM
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Car: 91 Firebird
Engine: 305
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i think it may be the fule pump then when i had a diagnostic done i was told i only had 28psi i think.....the shop said changing the fual filter would help which i did but i guess it didnt
Old 10-09-2003, 07:12 PM
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Get a cheap fuel presure tester. When I get home I will look up a couple of diag's that you can run with the tester. Running these test will tell you if the problem is with the fuel pump, FPR, leaking fuel rail / injectors. If it is a problem with the FPR it will be much easier and cheaper to repair.

If you try to sell it with a dead fuel pump you wont get squat for it. Most pepole know that it coast a lot to replace the pump. Or if they do it on thier own they are in for a lot of work. The rear end has to be droped so you can gain access to the fuel tank.

You don't have a full tank of gas do you?!?!?!

Most shops will charge extra if the tank is full.
Old 10-09-2003, 08:07 PM
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Car: 2006 'Nox 91 Camaro RS 91 1500 Silv
Engine: GM 3.8L, 305 SBC, 350 SBC
Transmission: Auto, auto, auto
I think stock fuel pressure is like 42.5psi
If you do determine it to be your fuel pump, and IMO it doesn't sound like it is, since you're selling it anyway just cut the back open and do it that way...you won't need to deal with it again anyway, and it won't be your problem anymore
Old 10-10-2003, 05:05 PM
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Car: Chevy Cobalt & Camaro
Engine: 2.2 DOHC/3.1
Transmission: Not so slushy slush box/Slush Box
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23
Ok I know my egr has a leak but I never had any problems till now.. its always had a leak.. . I do have a digital egr fron the 3.4 when i swapped the 3.4 in the car.. could I use that or wouldn't it hook up... And I pray that its not the fuel pump.. how much does a fuel pressure tester thingy cost....
Old 10-12-2003, 09:29 PM
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Picked up fuel persure gauge for $25 . The 3.4 and 3.1 use the same EGR valve.
Old 10-12-2003, 09:30 PM
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I'm still looking for service manule for the diag's. I can never seem to find it when I need it. Usally it next to my for some good night time reading.
Old 10-13-2003, 04:02 AM
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Car: Chevy Cobalt & Camaro
Engine: 2.2 DOHC/3.1
Transmission: Not so slushy slush box/Slush Box
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23
Well It was 2.8 - 3.4... would the egr valve work. and if so how would I hook it up?
Old 10-13-2003, 10:43 AM
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If you went from a 2.8 to a 3.4 you should put the EGR valve system on from the 2.8 . I don't belive there is an easy way to hook up the digital EGR to a system that used to have the vaccum type.
Old 10-15-2003, 04:36 AM
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Car: Chevy Cobalt & Camaro
Engine: 2.2 DOHC/3.1
Transmission: Not so slushy slush box/Slush Box
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23
I've narrowed it down to 1 of 3 things. One my egr system. two, something in my fuel pressure FPR, or Fuel pump. Or three, My Throttle pos sensor.. So what I am going to do is take the car to a garage have them test all 3, since I do not have the tools to check them myself. And after they tell me what it is.. I will fix it myself. If it in my fuel pump the car is getting parked for the winter and I am gonna slowly put a v8 in. if its one or three I am gonna fix it. and them come spring do a v8 swap. I'll post on the results of what it is sometime either this wk end or the beginning of next week.
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