Tried moving to TBI forum but no luck...

Hey Everyone...

New '88 Camaro owner here, 305 TBI, Auto, All stock at the moment...

Bought it not running, sight unseen (For a very very good price) and I have an issue that's stumping me... I've been reading a ton of posts on this forum, trying to isolate and test components, and so far, nothing has helped.

I am hoping someone on here can educate me a bit further on the operation of the TBI setup, specifically the Injectors...

My issue..

Got the car running (Put in a starter, Ignition Control module, new rotor, cap, wires, put plug wires on properly, etc... Fully disassembled TBI and put a rebuild kit in it. Checked all fuses and connectors.

HOWEVER....

Only one injector continues to spray when the car is running. The driver side injector works flawlessly. Passenger side doesn't spray ANY fuel at all.
Tried switching injector plugs from one injector to the other... The passenger side sprays, Drivers side doesn't. So it follows the Injector connector.
Traced back these wires, everything looks good. I ordered a Noid light so I can test the plug, but It hasn't arrived yet...

My question is quite simple... Should both injectors be spraying fuel when the car is on idle? Above idle? WOT?

Anything I could have missed?

Thanks in advance...

Rob.

 

Both injectors are ran off one driver and fire at the same time.
sounds like the ecm is faulty.

 

Both injectors should be spraying fuel at all times the engine is running. Since the issue follows the injector connector, it is either a wiring or ECM issue.

Drop the ECM down and check the C14, D14, D15, and D16 positions on the ECM connectors. Make sure that there is no corrosion (green stuff on the pins). Note that most likely there are wires in only two of those four locations. They are paired up on each of the two injector drivers, and GM varied between using all four with four wires, or two pins with two wires.

Just unplugging and plugging back in the larger (CD) of the two connectors may get the injector back.

There are some other possibilities, so check that and get back to us.

RBob.

 

Thanks, I'll have a look at that as soon as I get home from work tonight... I will post what I find...

Rob.

 

Just curious because I didn't see it mentioned , did you check the two 10 amp fuses , marked "INJ 1" and "INJ 2" ? One of those fuses being blown could be a possibility

 

So.... went home and Checked the ECM, wires were in great shape, no corrosion, etc... Reseated everything just in case and also swapped the plugs at the injectors again, just in case, but yeah, still followed the plug...

Aggravating to say the least...

BUT...

Decided to take OrangeBird's advice and check the fuses again... this is like the 5th time I've pulled and checked each one individually.... Fuses are both good... But, this time I took a closer look and saw some corrosion on the tabs... So... what the heck, changed em out on a whim...

VOILA.... started it up and both injectors firing.... Running perfect now...

Funny how you look at something a bunch of times and it looks ok... then you change it and boom... problem solved...

I attached some pictures of the fuses... You can se what I mean if you look close... (Sorry they're so big....)

AND A HUGE THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED ME SEE WHAT I WAS MISSING!!!!!

Rob.


Inj 1 fuse - shows good

Inj 2 fuse - shows good

Overall, look at corrosion on tabs... I think the resistance was so high because of it it wouldnt pass current...

 

That is some heavy corrosion, good find (and hint by OrangeBird).

RBob.

 

Like the guy in the crow's nest on the Titanic, you've seen the tip of the iceberg.

There is very likely still corrosion in the fuse panel. If the corrosion creeps to the connections for the bussing in the panel, the game could be over. To minimize spread of the corrosion, the fuse panel can be cleaned. Electromotive cleaner only removes residue. Look into a product called De-Ox-It and follow the directions carefully. You might get lucky.

All the fuses and plug-in connections will need to be removed, so take a good photo of where everyting is positioned/connected. Apply the cleaner, allow time for it to work, then use a stiff bristle (shortened) chip brush to loosen corrosion, and apply more product. Wait again, then flush with a "regular" electronic cleaner and treat with a protective coating / rust preventive like WD-40.

At worst, you may have to remove the fuse panel, disassemble it from the rear, clean up/resolder, then reverse the procedure. Or you could replace the fuse panel with one just as old as what you pulled out. Then cross your fingers.

 

There are many products specifically for electrical contact corrosion prevention. One is NO-OX-ID. https://www.sanchem.com/electrical-c...lubricant.html Most are a conductive grease. They are more expensive than WD-40, but if you are going to do a proper cleaning job, don't skimp on prevention.

 

Thanks Vader and Slammin for the advice...

Had the entire fuse block disconnected and removed from the car in the last week. Completely cleaned the entire unit.... It actually wasn't too bad on the backside and in the remainder of the fuse sockets. Used some De-Ox-It, small air wand and small scrub brush...took my time and it turned out as good as new I think...

Put it all back in the car yesterday, hooked everything up and so far so good...

 

Great move. You now know you can rest easy for another decade (or more) without concern of the fuse panel burning down.