I need to know the fuel pump lines I cut a access panel and put in a walbro 400lph
and I thought I kinda crush a line
not the fuel pressure line or the return
there are 2 more
it's the first 1 3/8" diameter
what happenes when I kinked it will I take my car barly run off idel

 

Come on now boys

 

There are five lines that are hooked to the tank.
1. Filler neck
2. feed to the engine
3. return from the engine
4. feed to the evap canister
5. Tank vent

It sounds like you kinked the feed line, and yes that will make it so you're car isn't running right. If it isn't getting enough fuel pressure or fuel then it's not going to idle correctly. If you kinked it bad enough you'll probably have to replace the assembly.

 

Ty but I half kinked my vent line 3/8" not the fuel line or return line
I know this for sure because I had to cut the lines apart and i know where the raw gas is
what would happen if I half kinked my vent

 

As a test I could take my gas cap off and take it for a ride
and if the car runs normal then I know that's what it Is??

 

??

 

OK I'm not trying to be rude, but what exactly is your question? Something is obviously wrong with your car, but the information you've given makes almost no sense at all, and I don't know what to say.

Did the car run good before you changed the fuel pump? Why did you change the pump, was it bad? Did you put in bigger injectors to go with the pump? Are you sure the lines are hooked up correctly? Did you replace the fuel filter too?

Simply put if you kinked ANY of the lines it needs to be fixed back to the correct size of what it came from the factory with. I have a 255lph pump in my '87 with a Vortec 350 and it flows like crazy, so if your engine is putting out less then 500hp that pump you have is overkill. My buddies E85 fueled '02 Z28 is putting out 800hp on the dyno and is running -10an (5/8") fuel line, so maybe your line is too small to accommodate the fuel need of your car? As a general rule 5/16" (-5an) line is good to 350hp, 3/8" (-6an) fuel line is good to around 450hp, 1/2" (-8an) is good to 650hp, and 5/8" (-10) line is good to 1000hp if the proper amount of fuel is provided and the car is naturally aspirated.

So at this point until we can get some more clear info that is understandable there is nothing else I can recommend.

 

Just forget it
I'll figure it out myself
as always
I think the vent line is closed
and it should be open

 

The problem is poor explanation and communication in your post. I can't quite understand either.

If the vent line is blocked, you may eventually drop fuel pressure but it's not going to happen right away. It would run for a while before that happens.

Slow down and explain your symptoms. Try to use some punctuation and capitalization and proof read your post. Perhaps have a friend proof read it also. This isn't a social media app.

Also it's somewhat offensive to our sensibilities to cut an access panel to get at the fuel pump assembly. Frankly it's pure laziness IMO. These cars are rarely daily drivers and it's not that big of a deal to to the job the right way per the manual and drop the rear differential. With some creativity and persistence it takes less time than cutting a panel and properly repairing the damage caused. Honestly that's a really awful way to perform this repair.

GD

 

I do not have a hoist ever
so everyone on YouTube does it
and I have no interest in taking the whole car a part again
rust and undercoating in my eyes
for days
I'm good
it's 10000000x easier to do it
every car I ever owned in my life had a access panel except gm engineered it wrong
to this day there lazy and cheap and that's why there bankrupt
ppl who actually work on there car non stop themselves see all imports with access panels and gm without it
it was done once at a gm dealer in 1996 ish it cost over 1000cdn back then
and they dropped m
the car off the hoist and lied about it
the door wouldn't close
and they ended up body shop and having the straighten the frame
and to this day the guy who tried to install the last strap didn't even put the bolt in
it's just hanging with 1 strap and it's caught on the fuel door inlet
that's gm dealership idiots
don't ever tell me letting morons touch a car they wrecked it
never again am I doing that
there all idiots
I am 10000x smarter than all of them
don't even get me going
I could go all night about the incompetence of the gm dealers

 

I'll agree that Ben is very hard to understand , he talks about Canada a lot and I'm left wondering if French is his native language instead of English ?

With that consideration , I too would like to admonish Ben and anyone else who thinks a crudely cut hole is the way to go when replacing the fuel pump ! There is one gent here who did it right , I'm pretty sure the member's name is Tibo , and his access panel is exactly what the factory should have supplied . Ben , if you want to see how the access panel should be done do a search of Tibo's posts and you'll find it . My car IS a daily driver , and has been so for the 12 years I've owned it , and there are no hacked holes or crudely spliced (and kinked) fuel hoses anywhere near my fuel tank .....

 

You don't need a hoist (lift). You just need to be creative and persistent.

I don't think anyone here recommended it be taken to a dealership. GM dealers aren't well equipped (training wise) to work on 30 year old cars. So being a GM dealer 30 years later really isn't any kind of advantage and if you did take it to a shop you would want to pick one that has experience with F body's. Which is decidedly not a dealer.

You say the dealer is lazy. I say anyone that cuts an access panel in the floor is lazy. I suppose it's semantics but here I am with two third gen's that both have new aftermarket tanks, high volume fuel pumps, new pickup assemblies, and all new soft lines - which I installed. Neither has any of the issues you seem to be insinuating would be caused by doing the job the right way per the manual (which I did).

I am quite positive that it's absolutely wrong of you to claim you are "1000x smarter than all of them" and yet you have a non-functional fuel system after a hack-job repair attempt.

Have you come here for help or for us to agree with you that you are right and GM was wrong? I don't see how you can have it both ways. If you want help that might result in the resolution of your problems I think you need to start by taking a step back and admitting you have likely made a mistake somewhere (maybe several of them) and stop worrying about who is smarter: You (guy with broken, rusty, 30 year old hack job car) or GM (multi-national billion-dollar corporation that has managed to weather 111 years in the automotive industry).

There are MANY places where GM could have absolutely improved on the design of the third gen F body. But at the end of the day it comes down to cost. They could have given in all kinds of "features" to make it easier to service. How about a dog-house to get at the upper bell-housing bolts? How about easier to access engine mount bolts on the K-member? Sure there's plenty of places for improvement. These are called trade-offs. All things considered they didn't do too bad and made a fun car. If it frustrates you then get something that doesn't.

GD

 

Go on YouTube and watch the 100 diff ppl doing it
I pitty you all so bad
spending hours under cars for something that is a design flaw
you think dropping a car off a hoist is ok
???
not me
that's y it never went back
because there morons
you are being cheap designed to not put a hole there
like I said
1 hour with a hole and 20 without
end of story
I didn't cut any ribbing
and the guy didn't even do up the fp strap he left it hanging
like I wouldn't see that
hes a moron
and if you think that's right
your a moron
and I'm done talking to any you
I'm 39
I'm king I built my own 383
t56 swap
9 bolt

 

.....

 

I'm going to make one more comment and then I'm not EVER coming back to this thread.

YOU came on here and created hands down the most confusing threads I have ever read in my ten years of being on this forum. Now you're upset because we can't help you with your issue because of either a language barrier or your lack of the English language. I have dropped four of these tanks in the 25 years I have owned 3rd gens, two of those time in my current car, and on none of them was a lift used. The one thing all of these have in common is that ALL of them were fixed the way GM told me to, not by cutting a hole in the car, and every one of them didn't have the issue your're having.

Either take our advice or don't we're only here because of our love of two cars built from 82-92...

 

I don't usually sh*t on people, but you can't even use the appropriate "their, there or they're". You hacked you car up. You sh*t on a vendor when the problem wasn't his fault.
GM didn't put an access panel in these cars, for good reason, it was a safety issue.
You don't need anything more than a floor jack and some jack stands to do a fuel tank drop and replace. I did it three times in the road out front of my house. I can do it in less than an hour now, it isn't hard
You aren't smarter than ANYONE

edit, you can't even use the correct **you're**

 

LOL. This is priceless.

Well then - Hail to the King Baby!

Aaaaannnndddd.... user added to ignore list.

GD

 

It was my used wally 400 pump was bad
I got a wally 450 and the install kit here
can I use gear clamps on the plastic line

 

Your stock wires will melt with that pump before the clamps become an issue. That is too much fuel pump, unless you are feeding it via 10ga wire and make 600hp. Also, even though I have an access panel, it isnt too bad to drop the tank. I did it in a parking garage with hand tools on last years hot rod power tour.

 

I'm gonna rewire it with 8 gauge wire and 30 amp relay
don't worry
I'm concerned for the gear clamps and the plastic line not rubber like it used to be

 

Just go buy a piece of fuel injection hose and use that with the clamps. Most pumps come that way.

 

I know they do
this but using regular hose will expand and burst in 6 months in the fuel tank
there is a special hose and coating that they put on it to make it last
but that 1 foot of hose went from 26$ per foot to now 42 per foot which makes me think that walbro is making that hose cheap with plastic
Yesterday I went out and took the sending unit off again and took out my dead wally 400 and put it a brand new 450 wally and the install kit had the plastic line
the old pump was a 5/16" wally rubber hose and the new one was 3/8" hose
I just cramed on the 5/16 hose on the wally 3/8 barb and put a gear clamp on it
and I cut .5" off it and it fit on the inlet of the fuel line and gear clamp it and soldiered all the wiring made sure there was nothing hitting and put on a new walbro filter sock
the plastic line was way way to long
they told me I couldn't cut it
I ordered a amp kit to rewire the fuel pump maybe this weekend
but for now it's runing mint

 

Fuel injection hose wont dissolve or burst. Almost everyone does this when they replace the pump. Glad you got it running.

 

Regular fuel injection hose is NOT submersible. The ethanol component in today's gasoline WILL dissolve and soften the outer casing and binding layers leading to failure. The innermost layer of the hose is rated for ethanol but it WILL burst if the outer layers are compromised and they are NOT rated for submersion in any fuels - ethanol just does the deed faster.

And yes I've seen this personally. Why do you suppose submersible FI hose is $20 a foot? If regular hose worked for this they wouldn't sell it.

GD

 

I must be using the submersible stuff then. Newer hoses are far better against ethanol erosion but I guess its been awhile since I looked more closely. Thanks for the reminder.

 

I mistakenly used a section of normal FI hose in a DW400 install in a 650 HP Subaru running E85 and that section of hose blew out and also plugged up the fuel filter within 5k miles. That was 2 years ago and it was quality, recently purchased bulk FI line. I don't think anything has changed much - the "normal" stuff is less than $1 a foot, while the submersible stuff we buy is $100 for 5 feet. You would certainly know if you were paying the price on submersible hose.

GD