Engine pulling tips/help
Engine pulling tips/help
I have a 91 Z28 that I'm currently in the middle of pulling the 305 TPI to do a thorough rebuild of the engine. It's got 150k miles on it and its nearly 30 years old, so I'd say she is due for a rebuild. Anyway, I am wondering if anyone can provide tips for the actual engine pull itself. So far I have removed exhaust headers, all of the TPI intake, electrical harness connections, and all serpentine accessories. So the only thing holding the engine in is the Trans and motor mounts. Questions I have are:<br >
And of course any additional tips/tricks are welcome. I've never pulled out an engine myself and only vaguely remember my Dad doing stuff like this when I was a kid, but I really wasn't paying attention to the details.
Thanks!
- How do you disconnect transmission? The bell housing I know has to be disconnected, but there's still a connection to the flywheel right?? I have an automatic trans and would prefer to leave it in the car instead of pulling out both engine and trans.
- Where do the chains get connected to the engine? Note I have taken out the intake already.... so I can connect to cylinder heads or block
- If I leave the hood on, will the radiator have to come out in order to clear everything?
And of course any additional tips/tricks are welcome. I've never pulled out an engine myself and only vaguely remember my Dad doing stuff like this when I was a kid, but I really wasn't paying attention to the details.
Thanks!
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,332
Likes: 565
Car: 1986 IROC Z
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi
Re: Engine pulling tips/help
I have a 91 Z28 that I'm currently in the middle of pulling the 305 TPI to do a thorough rebuild of the engine. It's got 150k miles on it and its nearly 30 years old, so I'd say she is due for a rebuild. Anyway, I am wondering if anyone can provide tips for the actual engine pull itself. So far I have removed exhaust headers, all of the TPI intake, electrical harness connections, and all serpentine accessories. So the only thing holding the engine in is the Trans and motor mounts. Questions I have are:<br >
And of course any additional tips/tricks are welcome. I've never pulled out an engine myself and only vaguely remember my Dad doing stuff like this when I was a kid, but I really wasn't paying attention to the details.
Thanks!
- How do you disconnect transmission? The bell housing I know has to be disconnected, but there's still a connection to the flywheel right?? I have an automatic trans and would prefer to leave it in the car instead of pulling out both engine and trans.
- Where do the chains get connected to the engine? Note I have taken out the intake already.... so I can connect to cylinder heads or block
- If I leave the hood on, will the radiator have to come out in order to clear everything?
And of course any additional tips/tricks are welcome. I've never pulled out an engine myself and only vaguely remember my Dad doing stuff like this when I was a kid, but I really wasn't paying attention to the details.
Thanks!
You can leave the transmission in the car, supported with a floor jack. You'll need to unbolt the torque convertor from the flexplate.
A chain can be attached either to the back of one cylinder head across to the front of the other, or to intake manifold bolt holes in the heads in similar fashion.
GL
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 4,255
Likes: 427
From: Portland, OR
Car: 86 Imponte Ruiner 450GT, 91 Formula
Engine: 350 Vortec, FIRST TPI, 325 RWHP
Transmission: 700R4 3000 stall.
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Torsen 3.70
Re: Engine pulling tips/help
First of all - why do you believe it's due for a rebuild?
My 86 305 was in excellent condition at 150k. I replaced the timing set and valve stem seals with it in the car. It had 190 compression on every cylinder and excellent oil pressure.
If you pull it just throw it away and get a 350. Not worth rebuilding a 305.
GD
My 86 305 was in excellent condition at 150k. I replaced the timing set and valve stem seals with it in the car. It had 190 compression on every cylinder and excellent oil pressure.
If you pull it just throw it away and get a 350. Not worth rebuilding a 305.
GD
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 4,174
Likes: 569
From: Meriden, CT 06451
Car: 84 TA orig. 305 LG4 "H" E4ME
Engine: 334 SBC - stroked 305 M4ME Q-Jet
Transmission: upgraded 700R4 3200 stall
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 4.10 Posi w Lakewood TA Bars
Re: Engine pulling tips/help
Whatever route you go, take pictures of EVERYTHING you disconnect.
It may end up being some time before the engine gets re-installed, and trust me, you will forget the details.
It may end up being some time before the engine gets re-installed, and trust me, you will forget the details.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 54
From: Lincoln, NE.
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: 5.7 Vortec w/ factory TPI
Transmission: WC T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 Posi
Re: Engine pulling tips/help
- How do you disconnect transmission? The bell housing I know has to be disconnected, but there's still a connection to the flywheel right?? I have an automatic trans and would prefer to leave it in the car instead of pulling out both engine and trans.
- Where do the chains get connected to the engine? Note I have taken out the intake already.... so I can connect to cylinder heads or block
- If I leave the hood on, will the radiator have to come out in order to clear everything?
And of course any additional tips/tricks are welcome. I've never pulled out an engine myself and only vaguely remember my Dad doing stuff like this when I was a kid, but I really wasn't paying attention to the details.
Thanks!
1. Take the inspection cover off of the bottom of the trans and remove the bolts attaching the flex plate to the torque converter. To rotate the plate/converter put a ratchet on the crank bolt to spin the motor over slowly.
2. You an hook the chains to the exhaust manifold bolts, intake bolts, or the accessory bolts on the front and a ground bolt on the back.
3. REMOVE THE HOOD!!! lol... I would pull the radiator just so it doesn't get damaged.
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 127
From: Los Angeles
Car: 1989 IROC Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI L98
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Engine pulling tips/help
Remove the fans, radiator, etc. Get a load leveler and pull it from the side. Comes right out. I also recommend a transmission output shaft cap.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/sout...00-l98-t5.html
And go with a 350. Identical in every way and gives you that much more satisfaction.
Also, the T5 swap is easiest when the engine and trans is out. And man does that manual trans make the car exponentially more fun.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/sout...00-l98-t5.html
And go with a 350. Identical in every way and gives you that much more satisfaction.
Also, the T5 swap is easiest when the engine and trans is out. And man does that manual trans make the car exponentially more fun.
Last edited by Tootie Pang; Jun 29, 2020 at 09:51 PM.
Re: Engine pulling tips/help
Thanks everyone! I guess the big take-away for me is that I really should take off the hood! Ok, will do then! And after talking about it with a friend who is a auto technician... I think I will try to take out the transmission as well. He basically told me it's really tricky to re-attach the transmission once the new engine goes back in and that it's a heck of a lot easier to mount everything when it's outside of the vehicle. On a side topic, I really am thinking of just buying a new 350 motor, but not sure where a good place to buy one is... Any suggestions in that area are welcome as well!
Thanks!
Thanks!
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Supreme Member




Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 816
From: Colorado USA
Car: '83 Firebird (T/A Clone)
Engine: 350 with L-69 components
Transmission: 700R-4, 2000 RPM stall converter
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt/3.73 ..
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 769
Likes: 51
From: Zebulon, nc
Car: 1990 GTA/1989 Iroc
Engine: L98/383
Transmission: 700r4/t56 magnum
Axle/Gears: 9"
Re: Engine pulling tips/help
If you don't have a couple extra sets of hands, the hood does not need to come off. I actually prefer not to touch it. Take the radiator out, frees up space and you don't risk poking a hole in it. Its not terribly difficult lining the engine and trans back up, especially if you have an auto.
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 127
From: Los Angeles
Car: 1989 IROC Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI L98
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Engine pulling tips/help
Taking the hood off and back on is easy. Just mark the location of the hinges to the fender. Three easy bolts each side.
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Re: Engine pulling tips/help
Great suggestion ! Since every cellphone has a camera taking bunches of pics can save all kinds of time figuring where everything is supposed to be
Re: Engine pulling tips/help
I have an RS and had to take the hood off to pull the V6 engine (shorter than a V8) so I could us a gantry crane to pull the engine. The engine hoist would not reach all the way in to lift the engine from the center because it hit the nose of the car before the extended arm was able to get into position over the center of the engine. However, on a V8 the center of the engine sits a little farther forward than the V6 so you may not run into this problem. BTW, it takes two people to get the hood off unless you can lift it like I did using a gantry crane....
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 54
From: Lincoln, NE.
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: 5.7 Vortec w/ factory TPI
Transmission: WC T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.45 Posi
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blackbeauty89
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