What is the gauge wire used for the fusible links at the starter?

 

Don't quote me on this, but fusible links are usually 2 wire gauges smaller than the gauge of the wire they are protecting.

 

yup. thats how I did it too, so a 10 gets a 14 or a 12 gets a 16. and use SPECIFIC FUSIBLE LINK WIRE, not just regular wire.

 

I have FL wire if you need some. You need a 14 gauge link for the 10 gauge power wire and a 16 gauge link for the 12 gauge wire.

Did you already plug in the harness you got from me?

 

14 AWG ...

 

My question is why bother with a fusible link at all? Run the proper sized wire to a properly sized fuse (in a location that's far more convenient than down by the starter) and call it a day.
Then again, I'm a wireman by trade and the factory harness gets tossed generally speaking anyway. The basic body harness remains but any additional equipment gets renewed.

 

Hey scooter, sorry for the late reply. I don't get notifications for some reason. Anyway, I haven't used the harness I got from you yet because I don't plan to do the factory TPI swap till after winter, so I just wanted to try to fix my electrical issues so the car can be driven till then. Thanks for letting me know the sizes I need. I picked up some 14 gauge links today so hopefully I can get them on this weekend.

 

I didn't know you can replace the fusible link with an inline fuse. What amp fuse do you have to use?

 

It depends on the wire size. 30 amp for the 10 gauge and 20 for the 12 gauge are what I see online, though I think they are a little more than that from GM when they use those wire sizes

 

That's typical sizing in the industry including automotive.
As an example, I've an isolated binding post on the inner fender near the battery. Since it's a common take-off point for other circuits that are attached to it, I've run a short unfused length of #6 (less than a foot) from the positive battery post to the binding post. From there, to continue the example, I need to run a circuit for my fan. It draws over 20 amps so as a hedge against excessive current, it's a #10 from the binding post to a fuse holder with a 30 amp fuse (right beside the post). Then the #10 continues on to the fan relay.
I've only one fusible link remaining and that's to the C100 connector on the firewall. Next retrofit, I may ditch that as well.
FWIW, my car is heavily reworked on the electrical side.

 

Don't use a regular fuse, unless you just enjoy dealing with intermittent connections, burned-up misc parts, etc.

There's a reason the factory used fusible links instead of fuses. That being, RELIABILITY. Don't downgrade.

 

I'll beg to differ as my wiring and terminations are impeccable.
There's also another reason why the OEMs used to use fusible links and that convenience and cost.

 

Just to qualify my statement above, I'm not advocating that the OP rip out the fusible links and rewire. But I certainly wouldn't go out of my way to building one if I'm adding additional circuits.
While I've never had a link fail, I can imagine a lot of roadside grief if one let's go and I don't happen to have a spare link in the glove box. Fuses? Yes. Links? Not likely.
By the way, if the OP is going to be adding circuits using crimp on connectors, I strongly recommend investing in a quality crimping tool. The controlled cycle style is best for proper and repeatable crimps.

 

There are fuses and holders known as a 'maxi-fuse.' They are much larger in physical size then the typical ATC fuses. This is what should be used to replace fusible links. Although I wouldn't use them down at the starter due to water/rain causing corrosion.

If you install a F*rd style starter solenoid up further on the fender well the maxi-fuses are a respectable alternative to a fusible link.

And, if you stay with a fusible link down at the starter, they do need to have the splices weather proofed.

RBob.

 

I agree with the above, when I swapped to LS engine, I installed a fuse junction block next to the battery and used 2 30 amp maxi fuses for both red wires going to c100, I separated the high speed blower from those circuits and used a 30 amp maxi fuse as well, with no issues to date, although If ever the need I'm sure a 40 amp would be fine too considering the wire size. My fans, fuel pump, and all engine related ignitions are powered through the fuse block next to battery so none of the new circuits runs through the original fuse block to take any extra loads off the c100 main power wires.

 

In some (not all) cases, the problem with replacing fusible links with fuses has to do with the inrush current of the circuit being protected. If the circuit is highly inductive, than it can have a large inrush current that easily exceeds the rating of the fuse, thus blowing it. A fusible link takes time to actually burn out, and will not blow in this example. Of course, you could use slow-blow fuses, I suppose.

 

That's certainly a consideration. Outside of the automotive field these are parameters that the distribution is built around.
Something to consider though, aside from circuit breakers, which IIRC handle things like the power seats (which are inductive loads/motors), all of the circuitry is handled by fuses. And by default, I'm referring to the "maxi-fuse".