Thicker Oil for old engines
Thicker Oil for old engines
Ok I just bought my convertable with 129 miles on it and the engine is shot....I knew it burn oil so I just skipped 5w-30 and when to 10w-30 with some engine honey....It burned 1 qt in 200 miles!!!!!!! and it does not appear to burn it while crusing....i dunnno...anyway...I am upping it to the Wal-mart Brand 20w-50 motor oil, it is contiunes I am goin' 30w.....I need like 6,000 miles out of this car's engine untill I can swap in the drivetrain from the car in the sig.....At least the oil is cheap....I want to get about 600 miles out of a qt.
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 0
From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
If its burning oil that bad then we know its going through the rings. Use the straight 30w oil and just for laughs put in some Zmax just for the $100 savings bond.
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Well....here is what i tried.....20w-50 SuperTech(Wal-Mart
) oil and that engine Restore in the Silver Can, it worked for the Mazda that I had but it was not worn this bad.....It still smoke, not as bad at the thinner stuff but still very noticable.....I used stright 50w how long would the engine last in a winter condition(cold starts and a very short hop(4 miles) in the morning and afternoon).....I think I will try 30wt next........
) oil and that engine Restore in the Silver Can, it worked for the Mazda that I had but it was not worn this bad.....It still smoke, not as bad at the thinner stuff but still very noticable.....I used stright 50w how long would the engine last in a winter condition(cold starts and a very short hop(4 miles) in the morning and afternoon).....I think I will try 30wt next........ hmmm
i had 100k+ miles on engine
and had the smokey prob
and used to go through almost that much oil
changed valve seals and voila no more oil usage prob
i say try it...its a 1 afternoon 30 bux solution
the vavle seals were hard and brittle 2 when i took them out
i bet i know what your look like
i had 100k+ miles on engine
and had the smokey prob
and used to go through almost that much oil
changed valve seals and voila no more oil usage prob
i say try it...its a 1 afternoon 30 bux solution
the vavle seals were hard and brittle 2 when i took them out
i bet i know what your look like
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 0
From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Like I mentioned before If it's using a quart as quickly as it is no way valve guide seals are going to cure anything. Reguardless of what people say about engine flush, use it. Its quite possible the rings could be stuck increasing the amount of oil consumption. The flush could possibly eat the gunk out of the rings and let them seal. It could have bad valve guide seals but, I bet there not the only problem.
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If he's only driving little short trips i think its possible that all/most of the burning oil could come from valve seals. On my car before I fixed the valve seals when I would just drive it around town in little short trips it would go through alot of oil and foul up the plugs in 300 miles, but If i put in new plugs and drove it up to school and back (about 500 miles round trip) it would run great the whole time. I say change the seals and see what happens. Or run a compression check first and if you've got low/no compression in one or more cylinders you know that the problem is the rings and its rim to rig up a 20w50 IV drip for the engine.
I am running Super Tech 20w-50 with some restore crap and the smoking has gone down quite a bit...but still under hard acceleration and decceleration it puffs......***, that is so embarrising around here....all these ppl have new cars....
that you just said under hard acceleration and decel it puffs indicates that its probablt more then just the valve seals, valve seals will make it smoke on startup and then clear up.
Originally posted by cfabe
that you just said under hard acceleration and decel it puffs indicates that its probablt more then just the valve seals, valve seals will make it smoke on startup and then clear up.
that you just said under hard acceleration and decel it puffs indicates that its probablt more then just the valve seals, valve seals will make it smoke on startup and then clear up.
Now, please don't take this as an endorsement.... i'm not a big believer in these "mechanic in a can" fixes, they're usually a whole lot of nothing. But we get this stuff from the valvoline distributor at work, and it seems to help with small oil consumption problems and leaks (presumably by swelling up the valve seals due to sealers in the oil). I use this in my T/A, with 130k on it... and have noticed a small reduction in oil usage (again, from the valve seals).
My 2 cents - Replace the valve seals to correct your problem.
But try this stuff out if you need to buy some time. They sell it in 20w50.
Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 371
Likes: 1
From: Kirkwood, MO, USA
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: 454
Transmission: Th400
Axle/Gears: 3.73
10w-30 is no thicker than 20w-30 or thinner than 5w-30 they are all 30 weight oil! 10w means it is suppose to flow like 10weight oil when it is very cold. Get some 5w-50 mobil 1 and I guarantee it will smoke less than any conventional motor oil.
Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 371
Likes: 1
From: Kirkwood, MO, USA
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: 454
Transmission: Th400
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Hell raiser I don't care if there is a 20w-30 oil or not I was making a point. that the XXw didn't determine the oils weight. The original post was referring to 30w oil. Anyway how do you know there isn't a 20w-30 oil somewhere? They could manufacture it if they wanted and people would buy anything, therefore I wouldn't say ther isn't one somewhere in the world. Maybe you know everything I don't.
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