I am having trouble with the alternator bat terminal hitting valve cover.
I have taller valve covers. The alternator is stock for 89 Camaro. The cs 130. I have the stock alternator bracket. I thought I might be able to clock the alternator but that would be impossible with the way the housing is.
My question: Is there an alternator that will fit this bracket with the battery positive in a different spot or that has a different type of connection that doesn't stick out from the housing. I do want to be able to use the stock alternator gauge.

 

might be able to take the stud and nut style output terminal off of a another model of cs130 alternator-might gain ~3/8" of more clearance VS the style you have now.

 

Needs some zzzttt action with a die grinder.

 

What would you suggest I grind?

 

I would look for the Brackets that mount the Alternator on the Passenger-Side of the Engine.
There are Stock Brackets, and Aftermarket Brackets that will mount the Alternator on the Passenger-Side:

 

The bottom of the terminal. From the photo, it looks like it's pretty close to clearing if it wasn't quite so square.

Edit: little dentilation on the valve cover might work too, or a little of both.

 

Vorteciroc, I have the a/c still on that side.

I am trying to find something like this but with the serpentine pulley. I don't have an alternator or I would just take the pulley off.

 

Just be careful with how close the Positive Terminal of the Alternator gets to the Valve-Cover.
The entire Engine is like a giant Negative Battery Terminal...
They will cause a large Electrical-Arc/ Short, if they are too close together.

Also an Insulating-Boot should always be used on the Positive Terminal:

 

I had the same issue and ended up having to grind quite a bit off the BAT terminal and then covered it with a rubber boot. It’s still an incredibly tight fit, but it gets the job done.

 

If your wires will reach, then you should be able to clock the rear alt housing. I've done it on an alternator before to get it positioned right for my wires.

You take the bolts out and Carefully pull the front & rear apart BUT only enough to be able to clock/turn it OR the brushes will come out and then you'd need to use clips to hold them in for re-assembly and I don't know how to do that.

 

BOOT77, thanks for the advice. I thought of that but was worried in case it did come apart, since it is brand new and I would not be able to return it if it ultimately did not work out. But since you have successfully done it, that will be the way I go. I am waiting on battery and ground cables from innovative wiring. Then I can make sure they are long enough.

 

I have a Powermaster Alt. similar to the one you posted on my serpentine setup. I have an 86 that I swapped with a new motor, and went from the old "V" set up to the serpentine. It works just fine, is clockable, and I believe I got from Summit. I'll have to look which model it is and let you know.
I believe it was

Powermaster 478618 - Powermaster XS Volt Alternators (on Summits site).

 

I think 89? - 92 use the style that has has a stud and nut. if you get one of those you can probably trim / cut the stud for come clearance

 

I finally got it figured out. I went with the power master 47461. It has the side mount. The alternator body still touches the valve cover, but just barely. The last 2 pics are the old alternator.

Just barely touching valve cover.



Side mount.
y. Thanks everyone for your suggestions.