I know this looks similar to the other post but I am just looking to see what you guys have used and your results.

 

fixthe problem and not try to mask it with a cure all in a can

 

Discover a new oil that burns clear.

 

actually synthetic tends to burn clear, or not as noticable as dino juice.

 

Fix the car.

Usually that means valve guide seals.

 

Switch to synthetic oil if you haven't already regardless if it smokes or not.

 

I just need the engine to get me to Summer.....if you read the sig you will find out why....

 

do you mean all the time or just on start up? if its just on start G.M. has a revised v.guide seal that WILL stop it. they should have put the fu--ing things on from the get go but thats the deal.if you are smoking all the time, aka blue cloud special-you be s.o.l. the seal kit part# i have is 12511890 seeya

 

Start up, and hard accel and decel.

 

Heres an old used car lot trick.....

Go to any place that sells chainsaws. Get a gallon and a quart of smokeless chainsaw oil in the heaviest weight you can find.

It'll never smoke again until the oil is changed.

 

Yeah, well i it does not pass then I will do the valve seals.....I am running Valvoline 50wt with oil thickener..... It Still smokes , Hopefully this guy i know will pass the thing untill....I can't wait untill the new engine goes in.

 

It was a no go....Operation Valve Seal Installation has an ETA of Sat. Feburary 2, 2001 @ Memorial High School Auto Tech department(were my father teaches). Umm he bought the seals and he got umbrella and o ring seals....oh well as long as they last thoug the summer while I build up the new 305....

 

I've been advised against switching to synthetic oil on high mileage engines, because the oil is thinner and can pass through smaller gaps (mainly the piston rings) that the heavier oil can't, and will cause you to burn more oil and hurt performance. Is this true or not, because many people on this board say it's always good to switch.

 

its true-if you have a motor with 30-50k (rough guess)switching to a synthetic oil will probably make a leaker out of what was previously a tight motor. its not really because its lighter viscosity, but, i understand it to be that the actual molecules that make up the stuff are much smaller than what is found in conventional oil. and they kind of slip thru the cracks be it gaskets, rotating shaft seals, valve guides,etc. seeya

 

Baloney!

 

I'm not sure if its true or not, but it makes sense to me that as engines get more and more miles on them, the rings will get in worse shape, and the valve seals will detiororate a bit, and that switching to a lighter oil may help it to seep through these tiny holes, where-as heavier oil won't be able to. So giovanhalen, why do you say balony? Please support with evidence...

 

you've just got classic old tired engine syntrome, time to rebuild! if its smoking when your gunning it thats blown rings and at startup thats the heads, time to eather pull the engine or sell the car.

 

The oil is not thinner that is why. If it is 30 weight then it is 30 weight. It will not leak or burn faster than conventional oil.

 

So then what makes synthetic oil better? Sorry these are such... silly questions but I guess I don't know much better and am tryin to learn :hail: hehe... thanks guys.

 

It can withstand higher temperatures, it flows better at very low temperatures, higher film strength, you don't need to change as often because it doesn't break down as fast. If your conventional oil gets too hot it will cook and leave deposits and when it breaks down it wont have the film strength it should have. Checkout the thread titled everything you want to know about oil started by RX7 on this same page.

 

It is titled all you want to know about oil by RX7speed. No synthetic oil doesn't burn clear it burns blue but it takes alot higher temperature to burn it. Alot of it will go out your guides and not burn where as more of the conventional oil would burn. The amount of oil going out the guides would be the same if both oils were the same weight and new oil, but the conventional will smoke more and if the oil is old the conventional oil will thin out and then be consumed faster as well.

 

Replaced Valve seals and there is still smoke, only three of the valve seals where cracked the rest were fine...no orings in there tho...We tried teh new vavle seals witht eh 50wt oil....smokes lots of it....I tried 15-50 Moble1...smoke, not as much but sill very noticable....we put in a bottle of the thickest No smoke we could find...I will find out in the morning if how bad it is....I am thinking about the smokless chain saw oil....Ym father could put that oil in at school, (auto tech teacher), run it over to the station, pass it, bring it back and put the 15-50 back in and drive home....