Changing sump with engine in car t5 l31. My experience
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 455
Likes: 26
From: London, UK
Car: 1991 Trans Am
Engine: L31, LT4 hot cam
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42 LSD
Changing sump with engine in car t5 l31. My experience
Vortec L31 with a pro flo xt intake and a t5 transmission. Jack had slipped from k member and sent the steering bar into the sump. Dent was maybe a half inch in but across the sump. Despite it being relatively shallow, engine wouldn’t turn over by a breaker bar
in short sump slid out fine by raising the engine at front with a cherry picker after removing engine mounts and all the other stuff as mentioned in prior write-ups (y-pipe, starter, distributor, transmission inspection cover etc.). Didn’t touch the transmission and it was left connected to the engine. I used a tow rope around the front header pipes hooked on the cherry picker and didn’t have to remove the bonnet
One additional annoyance was the engine oil cooler which I effectively had to remove from the oil filter connection and hang it down. It got in the way often!
prep to raise the engine was about 2 hrs. Raising engine and changing the sump an hour. And another hour- 2hrs to re-install all the bits I took off.
oh yeah I had a fel-pro one piece gasket which looked fine so I didn’t replace it. This is a crate engine with less than 100miles on it. We’ll see if that bites me when I fill it up with oil
Whilst prepping for this and reading some posts on here (invaluable) I saw a few comments that you couldn’t remove a sump with the engine in on a t5 car; in my experience you can
And whilst not a pleasant job, I wouldn’t say it was particularly difficult. Just took time and a little fiddly. I suspect the real frustration comes from rusted bolts etc. which luckily I didn’t have to deal with (only recently have got the car back together)
hth
in short sump slid out fine by raising the engine at front with a cherry picker after removing engine mounts and all the other stuff as mentioned in prior write-ups (y-pipe, starter, distributor, transmission inspection cover etc.). Didn’t touch the transmission and it was left connected to the engine. I used a tow rope around the front header pipes hooked on the cherry picker and didn’t have to remove the bonnet
One additional annoyance was the engine oil cooler which I effectively had to remove from the oil filter connection and hang it down. It got in the way often!
prep to raise the engine was about 2 hrs. Raising engine and changing the sump an hour. And another hour- 2hrs to re-install all the bits I took off.
oh yeah I had a fel-pro one piece gasket which looked fine so I didn’t replace it. This is a crate engine with less than 100miles on it. We’ll see if that bites me when I fill it up with oil
Whilst prepping for this and reading some posts on here (invaluable) I saw a few comments that you couldn’t remove a sump with the engine in on a t5 car; in my experience you can
And whilst not a pleasant job, I wouldn’t say it was particularly difficult. Just took time and a little fiddly. I suspect the real frustration comes from rusted bolts etc. which luckily I didn’t have to deal with (only recently have got the car back together)
hth
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