So! I had my elderly dad helping me, he's an old school hot rodder but hasn't worked on car stuff for a while. I bought a new Oil pressure sender (OPS) and he was trying to remove it from the brass adapter. Somehow he loosened or cracked it and the old sender would not come out. We gave up. The next day I drive the car and it's leaking oil form that spot on the block. I really really don't want to remove the lower intake and re-do all of that. Is there ANY way to get that sender off then the brass fitting then the steel adapter off that is threaded into the block out without removing the intake?

 

A screw extractor is one possibility, but if any chips are created in the process of removing the broken adapter the engine should be cranked with the port open to expel any of that before installing the new fitting and sensor. It may be a little messy, but will probably be less of a mess than pulling the engine to replace a wiped crank bearing if the brass gets into an oil gallery.

A reverse spiral extractor possibly gives the best chance, and a little heat on the fitting to soften any factory thread sealant might help.

 

So I looked using the inspection camera and the fitting is still there and threaded into the block. The whole unit is intact but it will not snug or tighten down any further as the sender is hitting the driver side head

 

Clearance the sender off of the fitting with a die grinder and cutoff wheel.

Or turn the sender into a liquid, but there's oil in it so that method has a spicy surprise.

 

you can either clearance the sending unit a little or go to a hardware store and get some pipe to extend the port enough to clear the intake

 

Got it out. Now to plug it and convert to the 3 wire sensor above the oil filter

 

For anyone wondering.... The key is to unscrew the steel fitting from the intake using a crows foot wrench... Look it up...I broke off the brass fitting in the steel fitting... I was able to get it out with a crows foot and ratchet... Then used the extractor to remove the brass fitting remains.

The rescrew in the steel fitting.... A small mirror helps.

 

Yep! I used a 15mm wrench to brace the top brass part and unscrew the sender then used a short 3/4 wrench to hold the steel part in the block while I unscrewed the brass adapter then used a 3/4 crows foot to unscrew the steel fitting in the block.

 

...And with your second left inner hand, hold the wires out of the way.

Yes, that's a pretty tight area, and removing the wiper motor really doesn't help a lot. The best tool in the box for getting to that is the variable tolerance extension adapter, with a good application of persistence fluid (regular or synthetic).