Just as it says. It starts and idles OK for just a second or two and then stalls. Rinse and repeat. The engine was gone through. It has new injectors. New FPR, fuel pump, plugs wires etc. The engine ran great for about a year. I drove it 100 miles not long ago. It usually just sits tho because the idle will fluctuate just a bit when its hot and sometimes stall in drive. The starter gets heat soaked and sometimes wont work when its hot so the car really isnt safe to drive at the moment until I replace the starter. The engine ran great tho. Just that minor idling issue. So what I've been doing is starting it once a week and letting it idle for 10 min or so for the past 8 months. Never a problem. It wont stall in park, just runs perfectly.
Then one time it just started doing what I described above. Out of the blue. I've read about everything thats been posted on here and I still really dont know what it could be. Checked the fuel pressure (was around 40), no codes with the A/B jump, security light goes off after a few seconds. The key portion of the vats has been converted to resistors and that seems to work fine. fuel pump primes, engine turns over. Could it be the vats box thats under the right side dash that converts to signal to 30 hz for the ecm to turn on the injectors in run mode? Is there an easy bypass for that? It just pisses me off because it ran so good and this just popped up. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Can the engine be restarted immediately after it kills?

 

Yes, it starts right up, runs for a second or two and dies.

 

If anyone wants to take a look at this thread and give an opinion, that would be cool.

https://www.ls1lt1.com/threads/90-ca...s-dies.109978/

 

Well I did the vats delete with the hawks kit. Set at 30hz for a 91 3.1. Install went fine but the engine still just starts and then stalls in a second or two. I think I'm going to try the hall effect switch in the distibutor next. This has been a huge pita.

 

Hall effect pickup changed with an ac delco and changed ignition module in distributor. No change. Pulled off intake and found the 2 rear injectors ohming at 7.5. All others were right around 12.5 ohms. Does anyone think this is the culprit? These injectors were rochester remans that have about 100 miles on them. What is a good injector for this motor that wont break the bank. Hard to believe they would fail so fast. The rest of the fuel system checks out OK. 40 psi on shrader and holds pretty good. New fuel pump and filter. (only 100 miles)
Any feedback on this?

 

Multecs suck ! Not worth fooling with there shot

 

Is the multec the same as the rochester?

 

 

they're one in the same. Dump them. If you want we have a reman set of bosch injectors. They have a 4 hold spray pattern.

here's the link: https://www.southbayfuelinjectors.co...injectors.html

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