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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Just wanted to share progress. We started with having to replace the fuel injectors and due to a seized bolt in the TPI to intake manifold here we are, having gone down a “might as well” rabbit hole. Basically everything above the intake maninfold, including all sensors will be new/rebuilt.
New valve covers, clean/resurfaced intake manifold, all new gaskets (obviously), new PVC valve and hose run, new temp sensor in front of intake manifold. New EGR valve, valve sensor, and extension pigtail.
Took the time to replace the ‘89 valve covers with the inverted early 90’s model and painted them while we were at it.
in order to make the erg sensor wire reach, because the original longer one is discontinued, I built an extension so that I don’t cut the original connector.
I have a new one that went to the older valve cover, but based on how it’s molded I think I can make it work simply by trimming it. I’ll know for sure once the TPI and throttle body are back on, but thank you for the link in case that won’t work.
Ok, new fuel injectors, thermostat, and TPI back on. All of the engine sensors aside from TPS and MAF have beep replaced while I’m at it. I will test those last two at the end to see if they need to be replaced.
I was going to change the fuel pump as well, and as we were tearing out the interior to my surprise, I found that someone had already cut a fuel pump access, so we replaced the sender, fuel pump and connector hoses while we were at it. The original hole was cut like ****, and whoever did it just left the flap of sheet metal folded over it. I cut it off, and once I get the car running I’ll clean up the hole and actually install an access panel.
I didn’t take before pictures of that sender, but holy crap it was bad. The hoses were cut way too short, frayed, and I don’t think they were rated for fuel injection. They were gummy to the touch, and I’m surprised they weren’t leaking. The original pigtail had been badly spliced and was hanging by a thread.
All right, the engine is all back up and running. I did run into a snag; apparently one of the o-rings in the fuel regulator got pinched when I rebuilt it so it had a small drip leak once at full pressure. Pain in the *** to take it out and do it again, but lesson learned.
Also, the thermostat housing gasket was leaking even with proper torque, but it was one of those cheap paper ones, so I replaced it with a higher quality rubberized one and it fixed the problem.
I did replace most of the vacuum lines that were dry rotted, along with reinstalling the HCV and stock heater hoses which had been replaced with some homemade, jerry rigged setup.
I also replaced the coolant reservoir, the cooling fans’ motors, and rewired the cooling fan harness which was a homemade mess.
Completed an oil change, transmission and differential service, and a coolant system flush.
I think this completes what I would say is phase 1, which is just getting the car running properly. This is what I spent so far:
Urgh, today sucked. We started dissembling the body, and I knew the car was in an accident back in the day, which is fine, what I didn’t know is that whoever fixed did a **** poor job underneath. Turns out they hacked the end piece of the frame to straighten it back out.
That’s the only bad news. The good news is that it’s at the very end of the frame toward the rear passenger corner right at the bumper, so it doesn’t affect the main integrity of the car. Also, we’ll be able to fix it by having a sleeve welded around it. More work than I was expecting but doable.
this is my son removing the bumper bar. Turns out that due to the accident they sliced the middle of it, most likely to straighten it back out. Will replace it to make it safe and restore durability.
So far we have stripped the rear of the interior/ body to work on it. I'm planning to replace the carpet, headliner and other components. All seats are actually in good shape, aside from being dusty/dirty. We will strip the front next.
Last edited by armyvman; Jul 21, 2025 at 12:28 PM.
Ok, and we're back! The rain season in the PNW made us take a break, but it's slowing down now, so time to get back into it. We were able to completely retrofit the front brakes, calipers, rotors, wheel hubs, and struts, but totally forgot to take any pictures. In addition, we also replaced a bunch of emission components/hoses because they were a mix of bad shape, or dry rotted.
Bad news is, during the winter the gas tank developed a small leak, along with the upper radiator hose. I have both parts on order, and will replace once they get here. Because the rear springs and muffler would need to come out for the gas tank to be replaced, I have those on order as well, so new ones will go back in once reassembled.
The car will go into the body shop in the next couple of weeks to fix the quarter panel, and getting it ready for paint. We have a donor car where we cut out the rear quarter panel and will replace mine in it's entirety. I'll post pictures once I have them.
Great progress! I definitely feel for you having to pull the TPI off after you've fixed it to fix something else! I pinched one of the drivers side injector o rings on mine during install, and foolishly had everything bolted into place before I turned the key on to test it. Imagine my surprise, turning the key and hearing mystery liquid splattering the hood! Even had to have the wife come out and turn the key so I could confirm. That was a fun day.
From: Franklin, KY near Beech Bend Raceway, Corvette Plant and Museum.
Car: 1992 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 5.0L L03 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Project 1989 iroc 5.7L
I think the weather this winter has had most of us out of action working on our cars. It's warmed up here lately but I've been outside doing yard work. Going to be 75 today with light rain showers for part of the day. Going to be washing cars and trucks today. Weather is going to be high 60's to low 80's for as far as I can look ahead on the Weather app on Windows with some of the days having light rain showers but most being mostly sunny to sunny with an odd ball day being upper 50s.
I'm glad most of us can get back working on our 3rd gens again.
Remember that cooling systems rot from the inside out. If the car has its original coolant and heater hoses and the upper radiator hose has sprung a leak then the other hose probably not far behind.
From: Franklin, KY near Beech Bend Raceway, Corvette Plant and Museum.
Car: 1992 Pontiac Firebird
Engine: 5.0L L03 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Project 1989 iroc 5.7L
Originally Posted by deektheoutlaw
Great progress! I definitely feel for you having to pull the TPI off after you've fixed it to fix something else! I pinched one of the drivers side injector o rings on mine during install, and foolishly had everything bolted into place before I turned the key on to test it. Imagine my surprise, turning the key and hearing mystery liquid splattering the hood! Even had to have the wife come out and turn the key so I could confirm. That was a fun day.
We have all probably done something like that before. We learned our lesson afterwards though and test for leaks before putting the runners and upper plenum back on.
One good aspect of dropping the axle and exhaust to access the fuel tank is that provides an opportunity to make the pump access hole a little more clean, straight/square, and an opportunity to properly coat and seal any metalwork to keep it from rotting away.
One good aspect of dropping the axle and exhaust to access the fuel tank is that provides an opportunity to make the pump access hole a little more clean, straight/square, and an opportunity to properly coat and seal any metalwork to keep it from rotting away.
When I drop the tank I will take the opportunity of to also replace the muffler and tips, the real coil springs, and the tank straps at the same time.
When the car gets the quarter panel fixed, I’ll have the body shop weld the fuel pump access door as well. Right now it’s just a
hole. I bought a 9 x 9 access panel from summit racing.
That floor and tub appear to actually be in really good condition, likely worth the effort. It should be a nice, solid platform once you've finished the project.
I was just informed by my body/paint guy, that I have to take the windows out. I've been looking for documentation on how to do this, but I'm falling short. Does any one have any instructions/documentation on the topic, or know where I could find it? For context, I'm planning to replace also the door latches, door lock actuators, and window motors at the same time, if that makes the process easier.
My donor quarter panel. The car will go in the body shop in a couple of weeks, once I have the time and the weather to empty out the door windows and mechanisms.
Today it was a beautiful day so I just decided to get a couple of more things done before the car goes to the body shop next week.
First i replaced the muffler and pipes
The old muffler. It was clamped on at the inlet, so I was able to do it all without any welding or cutting of the original pipe. Once I removed it I saw the whole interior had disintegrated.
The new one.
Final product. Some antisieze and clamps all around so I’ll be able to remove it more easily than if need be for maintenance reasons. It sounds pretty damn good.
The next little project was kind of fun. I wanted to refresh the evap canister and purge solenoid/valve, but the part is discontinued.
This is the discontinued evap canister with the integrated purge solenoid.
Thanks to a video on youtube I found someone who had already came up with a solution to the problem. Different car, same equipment:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hFrSDv5uHYw
These were the new parts that meet specs and that you can still source today. You can find the part numbers in the YouTube video description.
I built myself a custom bracket for the purge solenoid with some Simpson tie down parts, cut it, spray painted it, and lined with with adhesive flash tape to dampen it/protect it.
then I rebuilt the purge valve connection
The old one with old hoses The new one with new new hoses
then I assembled it all like in the video and it works like a charm. One thing I added that wasn’t in the video was a tie strap around the top of the evap canister to keep the bracket buttoned up against it, preventing it from rattling.
The finished product.
I also replaced the gas tank vent valve, but I didn’t take a picture. That definitely helped with the cold start crank; there is nothing left to replace in the fuel system, so I’m going to say that’s as good as I’m going to get it.
All in all, a very productive day.
Last edited by armyvman; Mar 22, 2026 at 09:32 PM.