I believe I need a new oxygen sensor (but thats not the point..). Anyways, Chiltons says the use anti-seizing compound - Is that nessecary???

 

There's a guy on the nova board I frequent that runs a very streetable 377 with a t350. He runs under 11 seconds with nitrous. I personally don't know a thing about 377's but check out his site and give him an email. He's a pretty good guy and would probably answer any questions you have. hope this helps you out.



http://members.home.net/mad5757/madshotrods/



This post was meant for the guy asking about the 377. Sorry I don't know how to move it!!!

 

uh....whats that all about?

 

A new sensor will/should come with a dab of antisieze on the threads, but I always add a little more than what's there.

Just becareful not to put any on the 'fins' of the sensor, and make sure you use a conducting antisieze.

 

And yes, it is necessary...if you ever plan on replacing it again

 

Buck,

Almost any replacement O² sensor will come with anti-seize compound either already applied or in a separate small package. You should use all of that and more.

Remove the old sensor (or try to) and you'll understand why it is important to use the compound. When you finally get the sensor out, inspect the threads and seat, then decide whther all that rust and carbon makes a good ground for such a critical electrical signal that is less than one volt. Clean the area as much as possible and chase the threads with a tap if you have one. Apply some anti-seize to the old sensor and run it in and out of the threads a few times to distribute it evenly. Clean up the excess, and apply anti-seize to the new sensor, being very careful to avoid getting anything on the sensor tip and shell. Install the new sensor and torque it to about 15-18 ft/lb, then connect it.

The anti-seize will not only help prevent the carbon fusing of the sensor to the exhaust pipe bung, but since it is basically a mix of metallic powders suspended on oil, it will help assure a good electrical ground for the sensor.

Do you need to use anti-seize? No. Not if you don't care about having problems later.

 

Well, it was a bitch to get out - but a new one is now in there....hope it makes a difference!

 

Yeah, let us know.

 

Well, I still got 1/2 a tank left - so it'll be a few b4 I can say anything about milage - but I'll say something tonught about how it runs
BTW - how long should i take fer wd-40 to burn off? (w/ a lot of overspray??)

 

Ok, maybe i'm an idiot, but i can't find the damn O2 sensor!!??
Where is it? haynes says you can get to it by just lifting the hood and makes it sound easy, but i can't see it. Do i need to get under the car, plus haynes only shows a v6, mine is an 8...is there any difference? Please help me on this

 

look on the drivers side exhaust pipe just under the manifold connection.

 

So it's on the drivers side now, i tell you, that haynes manual doesn't help me at all....is the chiltons much better??
So it's under the manifold, will i need to get under the car??
Thanks for your help!!!

 

damn - wish digi cam was working today!
Anyways - its right above the y pipe/manifold flange - and its obscured by 1) a spark plug wire thingy 2) AIR tubes 3) everything else
The only way I could get it (i spend many hours trying to use a wrench) was to go get a o2 sensor socket, and use 2 extensions, plus a breaker bar 3 foot pipe (the last part waas for leverage - damn those things are in there!! )
Anyways - I really havent driven it enough to make a note of the difference just like 2 miles down the road to work. I will fill up tomarrow - set my timing (what should I set at? 0*, I heard a lot set it at 6* - right now its is way off, thats all I know).. I hope all this helps my milage! (was getting 11mpg!! )

BTW - would running 34 psi (front) and 32 psi (rear) be too low? could it hurt milage? I got BFG Radial T/A's...

 

Those pressures sound fine to me. Your timing should be set at 6* from the factory, advancing it a few degrees will be okay.

 

I heard its set 0* - well, just what I HEARD. So its six from factory? OK. I know its messed up right now (I *may* have bumped it around some w/o light... ) Maybe 8* then? Ah, I'll prolly go 6* first, then compare to 8*...

 

Hey man, I'm gettin 11mpg too!!! And I just refilled today... Now I get 10MPG!!!!! What crap, ever heard of a 89 5.7TPI get 10mpg??!!! Something must be up... well atleast my car runs well now, which means theres really some power to be unlocked when I figure out what wrong with my car... tune up.

 

The sensor is on the left side of the engine, in the exhaust pipe as others have described. It should be visible and accessible from the top side. You may need a box end wrench to break it loose, and it can be done from the top side. Penetrating oil is a big plus for getting them loose, and it always helps to apply penetrant a few days in advance and wet the item down every day to allow it plenty of time to work into the joint.

Anti seize is a must.

 

I used a oxygen sensor socket - how the h3ll do you use a box end wrench??!!!???
I spend all morning yesterday trying a damned wrench - finaly gave up and barrowed a special socket from autozone (hey - you get your deposit refunded, who cares!)

 

You are replacing the sensor right, cut the wire and just use a regular socket to get it out....clean up the threads on the bung and just use a regular wrench to put it in there. (or wait...I did this when the engine was out of the car.....?? oh well that is how I did it )

 

The oxygen sensor sits right next to the #5 plug.

 

Dont ya love these nice - ROOMY engine bays? I mean all that emission stuff, while it LOOKS bulky, it NEVER gets in the way!
Oh well, its possible, but g0d is it hard!

 

I don't know about camaros but it wasn't too hard on my car because the AC compressor is located on the passenger side of the motor so you only have to worry about smog tubes. I had to do a custom re-routing (ie smacking them a wrench) of a few of the smog tubes so i could have enough cleareance for my torque wrench to ratchet when i replaced my sensor.