Ok Guys If you arent familiar with my situation please check out this post:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=80460

Well, I replaced the studs with ARP ones that are rated at 170,000 PSI, got a new summit pushrod set, and I put it all together and did a valvelash adj. after a couple more seconds of idle, they are ticking again. I used some heater hose to up to my ear to try and locate the noisy ones while running and then I tightened them up. Then some others got noisy. Something is not right still. I've done the valvelash adj. as carefully as possible, I torqued the studs down to 60 ft-lbs, I checked the rocker arm to valvespring retainer clearance (w/ valve closed), I turned the polylock with a rachet after tightening the allen screw, there is NO coil bind, I used the adjustable pushrod checker and have the right length ones (stock +.100"), The oil is definitely coming up to the valvetrain, I'm using guideplates with NON-self aligning full roller rockers, and They still keep loosening. Comp cams catalog said the rocker arm may be hitting the rocker stud at full lift and this would cause broken studs and pushrods. What are they talking about? Also, How do you make sure the guidplates are in the right position? Because when they studs are loose, they can move around a lot. Thank you
John

 

btt
(sorry I just need to fix this problem right away)

 

you are not using stock rocker arms right?

Back off the ones that are giving you problems to the point they are making lots of noise.. tighten until the noise just stops. Turn off the motor and tighten the additional 1/4 turn and set the poly lock.

See what happens.

 

no Im using comp pro magnum full rollers. I don't see how they could hit the rocker stud and I guess thats why: They can't. Thanks. But I would like to know how to properly align the guideplates. I doubt the valvelash adj. procedure is to blame, cause I've tried it a hundred different ways that people have recommended and it doesn't help. I will maybe try that tomorrow though. The last thing I can think of is the guideplates may be putting the pushrod in the wrong place on the rocker arms
P.S. Another thing: What should I Torque the polylocks down to (after the allen screw is tight)?

Man I must really be stupid or something cause I can't figure this out............

 

Anyone Have any more suggestions?? I need this car to get to school!!! Thanks!

 

.

 

With my AFR 190s, I just loosened the rocker studs enough so that the guideplates move freely, and put the pushrods in and put the rockers on top. Then i snugged the rockers and moved the guideplate to where it wasn't binding. Make sure to check the pushrod-head clearance. I noticed that this was a tight fit where the pushrod passes through the hole into the lifter valley. Take it back apart and tighten the rocker studs making sure the pushrods don't move.
I don't see why your poly locks keep loosening, mine stay very tight. I hand tighten the poly lock till zero lash, then give it 1/2 turn with a wrench. And then just give the allen screw a good strong turn till tight with an allen wrench.
This seems to have worked for me. I have the stock AFR rocker studs, which i think are made by ARP for AFR anyways, and stock AFR springs, well stock AFR everything that came on the heads.
My stock pushrods measured fine, and with my LT4 Hot cam, i have .525 of lift with 1.6 rrs.
I have my engine over 6000 rpm all the time with no problems.
Also, my valvetrain is loud(er) than stock. There is ticking, and has been since I stopped using stock heads/valvetrain parts. My lash is set and everything else is good, so it doesn't worry me. Plus besides the noise, it is butter smooth all the way to 6500.
Hope some of this helps.

 

You got that backwards. You need to do the polylocks first (1/2 turn past 0 lash), then tighten the allen screw! The allen screw is there to keep the polylocks from loosening.

 

yeah I know you need to tighten the outer nut first, but people have been telling me that you can't get the allen nut tight enough by an allen wrench alone and you need to tighten the outer hex nut more after you tighten the allen nut to keep it tight. That is what I was referring to. I thought since I had full rollers that they'd be quiet, which they are at first. That is why the ticking worries me, that and the fact that twice before when they ticked and I let them go, things got broken. 1st time: a pushrod (wasn't correct length), 2nd time: a rocker stud & a pushrod (pushrods were correct length)
Thank you though for the alignment instructions of the guideplates!! Hopefully that is the only problem.

 

if there is no noticable wear pattern in the area of the guide plate i would not think guide plate alignment is the cause.

 

is it possible that Comp Cams put the wrong cam into the box they sold you? maybe you should check the part number to be sure

 

Ok, I just did yet another valve lash adj. I went 5/8 turn past 0 lash, tightened the allen screw as much as I could, and then tightened the outer hex nut another 1/8 turn at 40-45 ft.lbs For a total of 3/4 turn past 0 lash. Then with the ignition & MCS disconnected, I used the starter to turn the motor over a couple times while listening for anything out of the ordinary. Then I went around giggling some rockers to see how tight they were. This is where I'm at right now. should the rockers have ANY play in them at all when closed or not-closed???

 

The rockers should not have 'play' so to speak, but when the valves are fully closed and the lifter is on the back of the cam lobe you should be able to get some side to side movement of the rocker without too much effort (especially since they are non-SA).

And I will also add that the idea that a full roller rocker is going to be quieter than a stamped steel one is ludicrous. Just think about how many more moving parts you have with the full roller ones and keep in mind that all of those moving parts have to have some clearance so as not to bind. All of those tiny clearances in the overall valvetrain add up and will cause some noise. My Crane Gold full roller rockers are pretty damn noisey as far as I am concerned, but the benefits are worth it in how smooth the motor revs, as stated above.

The bottom line is that roller rockers are going to make more noise than a stamped steel one and it is hard to tell if the noise you are hearing is normal or not over the internet. I do share your concern over the broken parts in the past however. I also might add that I don't have any experience with Comp Pro Magnum rockers so I can't say if they normally make some noise or not, but I would bet that they are going to be somewhat audible from under the hood if you are listening for them but shouldn't be noticeable otherwise.

Are you using the stock (how many thousand mile????) lifters? If so, you might want to get a new set of those as the added stress of tight valve springs and more lift than a stock engine combined with a worn out lifter plunger spring can cause problems. Something to think about....... and if tired lifters is the problem, it will send you chasing your tail on the valve lash adjustments.... (don't ask how I know).

Hope that helps,
Matt

 

Ok thanks man, That is the only way they move: side to side and only when on the base circle. As for the lifters they are new and came with the cam. I finnished putting everything back together and as this is the first time I had it running right with the carb tuned and the ignition perfect, I must say it HAULS. I think it may be getting louder again, but its too early to tell. If they get messed up again, I'm gonna take it to this speed shop near me that has been recommended to me by two separate people that don't know each other. I can't keep messing with it. Thanks for Everyone's help!
John