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Car runs crappy after it warms up

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Old Feb 12, 2002 | 11:05 AM
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Car runs crappy after it warms up

well, its just like the topic said , after my car warms up , about 10-15 minutes , it starts running really crappy , and i have half the power , it sounds like only 3 out of the 6 cylinders are working,
the computer wont give me any codes tho ,
any ideas to what might be happening
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Old Feb 12, 2002 | 03:15 PM
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Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
If it seems like only 3 cylinders are working. I would check your ignition. Pull all the plugs and wires and check the condition of them. Change the fuel filter.
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Old Feb 12, 2002 | 04:15 PM
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From: Valley of the Sun
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
You should keep running on 3 cylinders and get better gas mileage
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Old Feb 12, 2002 | 04:34 PM
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My brother has a 90 RS w/3.1 v-6...a few months ago he had some problems and we could not get it to flash any codes. It turns out that his ECM was bad. We found one at Advance Auto for $80 w/ exchange. Be sure to keep your PROM to put in the new ECM.

Just so you'll know...here are the problems he had in addition to the codes not flashing: speedo quit working, it missed at idle speed, and the electric fan ran all the time.

We went with Advance because they give you a lifetime warranty on the first ECM...GOOD LUCK!!!
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Old Feb 12, 2002 | 05:41 PM
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thnx for the replies , and leaving it as a three banger isnt an option since these thirdgens are freaking heavy, and a thre or four banger thirdgen is worse then a muscort , and about the ECM sugestion , im also having problems with the fan , the circuits are all ok , and fan is ok ,relay is ok, but it wouldent turn himself on , unless i plu the computer in diagnostic mode , but then it wont come off, lol, so for now i have a switch i switch on manually when it warmes up.
so is there a way i could check the ECM, or should i just buy a new one, and return it if it doesnt solve the problem .
and could these problems be caused by a faulty MAF , or EVAP canister purge valve ,
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Old Feb 13, 2002 | 05:29 PM
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BTT!
any ideas ?
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Old Feb 13, 2002 | 07:25 PM
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BTT???
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Old Feb 14, 2002 | 06:00 PM
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Back To Top
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Old Feb 14, 2002 | 07:18 PM
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another question, I should have asked this one first
you said the ECM will not flash any codes, will it flash the
"twelve's"??
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Old Feb 14, 2002 | 08:06 PM
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yeah ,, it flshes the 12's , no problem codes tho
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Old Feb 14, 2002 | 08:48 PM
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cool, it is probably not the ECM...when my brother's went out it would not even flash the 12s
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Old Feb 15, 2002 | 09:53 PM
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so, any ideas as to what else could it be ?
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Old Feb 15, 2002 | 10:09 PM
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From: Fayetteville, Arkansas, USA
Car: 1994 Trans Am
Engine: 5.7L LT1
Transmission: 6-speed
Check all your various sensor connections...

My car's got the exact opposite problem. It runs like crap until it reaches a certain temperature and then it runs smooth as silk. But before that it bucks and spits like a pissed off cat. A problem I discovered with my car is that the oxygen temperature sensor circuit could be completely inoperational and not set off a code. How this happens, I have no idea. I've disconnected the sensor several times and it didn't do a damn thing. The motor ran perfectly fine even w/o the O2 sensor BTW, gas mileage is about normal for a 305 TPI.
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Old Feb 16, 2002 | 11:29 PM
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THNX FOR THE HELP EVERYONE , BUT I JUST FOUND MY PROBLEM, OR WHAT I HOPE WAS MY PROBLEM , I OPENED UP THE HOOD AT NIGHT, AFTER I WENT UPHILL AND COULD BEARLY ACCELARATE FLOORING IT , AND ONCE I OPEN UP THE HOOD , I SEE TONS OF BLUE SPARKS FROM MY SPARKPLUG WIRES . AND I DONT THINK IT SHOULD BE THAT WAY !!! , WELL ONE WAY TO FIND OUT , ILL GO AND GET A NEW SET OF WIRES TOMORROW , AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS , ACTUALLY THESE WIRES ARE ABOUT THE ONLY OLD THING LEFT IN MY ENGINE AFTER I REBUILT IT . I SHOULD HAVE CHECKED THEM EARLIER OH AND SORRY ABOUT THE CAPS , THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN DRIVING ME CRAZY FOR MONTH'S AND NOW I THINK I FOUND THE SOLUTION!!!!!!!
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Old Feb 17, 2002 | 12:02 AM
  #15  
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Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
They definately shouldn't be doing that. That means you got some major cracks in the wires. Of course I don't see why it only did it once your engine warms up. I had the same problem a few times before, seemed to be worse when the engine was cold.
Are the wires old or have they being laying on the headers or manifold? I'd invest in some wire looms. I did after buying 3 sets of wires and having my car run like crap.
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Old Feb 17, 2002 | 12:04 AM
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Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Originally posted by Mark A Shields
If it seems like only 3 cylinders are working. I would check your ignition. Pull all the plugs and wires and check the condition of them. Change the fuel filter.
Look at that, did I call it or what. I guess after buying 3 sets of wires from them roasting on the headers you learn a thing or 2.
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Old Feb 18, 2002 | 11:09 AM
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Yeah,well, i kinda checked them , and i didnt see any problem untill i opened up the hood at night , and saw a buck of sparks, one wire had almost 4 "blue segment , actually i think the wires i had there were the once that it came from the factory with , anyway, what do u mean by them roasing on the headers , how far are they suposed to be ....?
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Old Feb 18, 2002 | 11:42 AM
  #18  
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Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
You don't want them laying on the header, cause they get burnt. And I you'll want a little bit of space, so the heat doesn't cause interference.
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Old Feb 18, 2002 | 12:20 PM
  #19  
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well , they dont excactly touch the headers , but tey arnt that far away either , um....... i think i might get some spacers , just to make sure i dont have to buy a new set of wires soon .
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