five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I haven't talked to Crane yet, thought I'd get "unbiased" opinions from you guys first.

Crane CompuCam in the sig. I adjusted them static when I put the engine together, like I've been doing for about a decade without a problem, but there was some "happy clattering" when warm. I readjusted static, didn't change a bit.

They're quiet when cold, but when at operating temp at idle, almost sounds like a solid cam. It runs fine, great power (given what it is), just wondering if I should do a running adjustment. I hate doing that because of the oil slinging everywhere, but I've got some rocker caps on the way that I'll use if you guys think that's the answer.

Or, are the lifters they provide with the cam the famous "variable duration" that are known to be noisy? That would explain the smooth 550 RPM idle and power to 6000+.

Vader

57,

I know you've been around the block a few times. Cold lashing usually works pretty well, but I've had the same experience with "plain" hydraulic rollers and a cam with heavy ramps. That's one reason I have a few sets of rocker clips and generally set the lash hot and running. It always seems to be a bit more accurate, even if it can be a little more messy. It isn't really that bad with good clips.

I don't know what lifters Crane may have supplied with the cam, and a quick call may give you your answer. They may have sent you the high-bleed (Rhodes-type) lifters with the kit, but I would have presumed they would have made that clear in the description of the kit. I'd want to know, for sure.

I do know that a Comp XE .520" cam with brand new regular rollers, a schlitz-load of oil pressure, 140# springs (closed), and zero lash will still make a little rocker "slushing" at low- to middle-RPMs. It used to annoy the hell out of me until I just accepted it. I guess I need cast rocker covers to kill the sound. Then again, I had another annoying noise that bugged me until I discovered it was the A.I.R. check valves clicking open and shut with the combustion pulses. Maybe some of us are just too picky, but I'd rather be that way than let it go without checking it out.

Given your apparent skill and experience, I'm sure you have everything right, and it just may be a characteristic of the lobe ramps and lifters trying to follow them. What type rockers are you using? That may have some effect as well.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The rockers are Elgins. I picked them up from Competition Products as a less expensive alternative to Comp Magnums or full rollers (they said definately don't use the Proform rollers with that much lift). I've used Elgin roller-tips before without problems (although on a milder cam).

Certainly nothing in the cam kit info about the lifters being anything other than "regular". I'll drop them a line, though, and see what they say. Since it'll be mid-March before I'm home long enough to do anything on the car, re-adjustment will have to wait until then.

sleeper

Make yourself a splash guard by cutting up an old valve cover and set the lash while running.

If they still tick pull the roller rockers and put on a set of stamped rockers. Eliminate one part at a time untill you find the part that's doing the ticking.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The only advantage of a cut-up valve cover is catching the oil at the bottom. Clips are much easier, and right now I only have my "user" covers available.

I'm fairly certain it's coming from the lifters, either adjustment or that's just the way they are.

Vader

5-7,

If your Elgin rockers are like mine, they are the heavier stamped roller tips with the long slots (amazingly, just like the Crane roller tips - I wonder where Crane gets them?)

Stamped rockers can make a little more noise than aluminums, and about the same as forged steel (unless they are fully rollerized). I'm still thinking that the interaction of the cam ramps and mass of the valve train may be creating the noise. The LT1 in the wife's beater has done this with both Comp XE Cams I've installed with new lifters and stamped rockers, and I just got used to it. It is very faint and only noticable between about 1,500 and 2,500 RPM. What are your valve spring specs (closed/seat pressure)?

One might think that the noise would be a little less noticable at your eleveation, since the air is thinner and the sounds waves radiate with about 15% less amplitude and a lower speed than at - oh, never mind...

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

They called them "LT-1/Z-28" - 120# @1.700, 300# @ 1.250.

Why, they must be even noisier than I thought!

Guest

I've run the crane variables before and they werent noisy. I think Jester has used them also, and he hated them and complained of them being noisy IIRC.

I guess that doesnt help much. I tried.

Oh, just remembered what else I wanted to say.
The variable lifters usually compress quite easily at first if you are adjusting them with the engine off, so the spin the pushrod trick does not work. You would be best off measuring the preload with a dial indicator and setting them that way.

Kingtal0n

If it doesnt do it when cold then it is likelly the lifters, from my experience a cold engine has thicker oil, higher oil pressure, thus the lifters are less "squishy" and stay pretty quiet. Whats your oil pressure at? When my engine is hot, with those crane "anti-pump ups" (NOT variable duration) oil pressure is about 15 PSI and the rockers / lifters make a *** awfull Clacketty clack, even up to 3000 RPMS where my oil pressure resumes 30+ PSI and the engine is making more noise anyways. Im getting rid of cranes Cam / Lifters because I do not like the performace / Exhaust Tone Im getting. Im really picky about my Lope, and that 224/234 Duration sounded STOCK in my 350, and ran about stock as well. Im going radical this time baby, 244/254 and im out the door.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The "cold vs. hot" is along the lines of my thinking. When cold and idling, the oil pressure is off-scale-high (I'm using AMSOIL 10W30 synthetic in it right now). When at operating temp, the pressure is about 20-25 at idle (the bearings have over 140k on them, remember - only the last 20k have been with synthetic).

Personally, I go more for the "sleeper" type, especially since this is my daily driver. Power brakes work, heater controls work, computer works without setting trouble codes, emissions (should) work (haven't had to test it since the mods), embarrassing 'Stangs works...