I just swapped a 6 spd Tremec T-56 into my 89 Formula. I runs awesome but the clutch pedal comes up too high. There really is no stop for it and I know the electrical switchs shouldn't be used as a stop. They can't stop it anyways becuase the pedal keeps pushing them out. What is wrong? The pedals are out of a 86 which is a hydrolic set-up. Please help.

 

If it sits about an inch or an inch-and-a-half higher than the brake pedal, that's normal; any more, and you should try to find a way to make a stop for it.

Pete

 

It's higher than that probably about 2 inchs. It's right up to where the cruise control switch is so it is pushing it out almost all the way out of the bracket that holds it. What would cause this?

 

I wouldn't recommend that. By preventing the pedal from coming all the way up, you'll make the clutch fork exert unnecessary pressure on the throwout bearing, leading to premature and certain failure.

Instead of making a stop for the clutch pedal, look for some way to adjust the setup. I know T-5 clutches are inadjustable but i'm not sure if that's true for T-56s. You could try shimming the master cylinder so that it's mounted further away from the clutch pedal, but not so far away so that the clutch never fully disengages with the pedal pushed to the floor.

 

Perhaps you should check and see if the problem is NOT that the clutch pedal is too high, but the brake pedal is too low.

A new master cylinder will put the clutch at more or less the proper height, even the T56 one. However, a worn out pushrod for the brake booster can easily cause the brake pedal to sit lower than it should.

Stick your head underneath the dash with a flashlight and watch the brake booster pushrod while pulling the brake pedal up. I'd bet money you find a LOT of slop there.

If you'd like I can take a picture of what mine looks like, since I just did a complete pedal refresh (new booster, new clutch MC, new gas pedal linkage, new clutch pedal).

 

how does your slave cylinder mount to your bellhousing. I think I have it right. My slave sits against the farthest forward part of the bellhousing and then the bolt goes through the other side and screws into the bracket/heat shield. Is that right? I really think my clutch pedal is too high. It pushes the clutch switch almost off the bracket, it would if it wasn't for the little metal holder thing in the bracket. The pedal is stopped by this.

 

It sounds like you have it mounted right. I've had three slave cylinders, two master cylinders, 4 clutches and three trannies and never had that problem.

The position of the slave doesn't affect the rest height of the clutch pedal anyway. It only affects the disengagement point.

I'll be under my dash later tonight and I'll try and snap some pics of what the clutch looks like.

Keep in mind I have a T56 now and not a T5, but I still have the original pedal assembly.

 

I have the T-56 also. The whole pedal assembly and clutch is stock. Could there be something wrong with the actual clutch assembly that is causing the slave cylinder to push in farther which is causing the pedal to come out farther?

 

Did you swap the T-56 in place of an auto? I had the same problem when I did my swap. Check where the master cylinder goes through the firewall. If you had to cut these holes than chances are this is your problem. A slight movement up and down on the master cylinder changes the pedal geometry a lot. I simply elongated the holes and reassembled with the mastercylinder in a slighty different position. It is a trial and error process, keep moving untill you get it where you want it. The clutch pedal should stick out further than the brake pedal by about 1 or 1.5 inches. Any less than this and it wont completely disengage. Hope this helps
Jim

 

I did swap the manual in place of the auto. I didn't think of that put that could definetly be my problem. I bet that is it! Thanks for the help man!

 

Yeah, that's probably it. My car was an original T5 car, so I've used the factory hole for the master cyl every time.