Heater Core Installation
Heater Core Installation
I have a new core and an 86 camaro without one. I know if i remove the dash that it is easier to install. What exactly do I need to do? Just take the top dash pad off or the whole thing. Also, I know i should get new radiator hoses...what do i do there? basically what do I need to do to install the frikin thing so I have heat (though the engine provides a pretty comfortable level of natural heat).
I am orig from NJ I know how you are freezing.You are in luck the 86 is the last year you can remove the heater core without removeing the dash. Just remove the screws from the heater front pannel the top screws are a pain in the a**.
Hope this helps, it has been five years since I did mine.
Hope this helps, it has been five years since I did mine.
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It's not hard to remove with the dash on. My brother did it in about 30 mins. Just remove the small black panel on the passenger's side.
86IROC,
The only really hard part about changing the heater core is the hoses. There is precious little space behind the cylinder head to work on removing and installing the hoses and clamps, but it can be done if you're patient.
The first thing to do is drain the cooling system. Once drained, you should be able to remove the hoses from the heater core pipe stubs behind the right cylinder head. Remember which one goes where because of size/hose length differences.
The lower dash trim and silencer panels need to be removed from the passenger side to expose the heater core case. Once it is exposed, you should see an array of 7mm hex head Plastite screws holding the heater core case halves together. All of these screws are fairly easy to reach from the passenger's footwell area except for one. There is one Plastite screw in the very top of the heater core case that is difficult to reach from the underside.
For that reason, it is easier for some people to remove the upper dash pad to access this top screw. It isn't really difficult to get the upper dash pad off, and is a good excuse to clean up everything in there with a vacuum cleaner and small brush, change some instrument lamps, etc.
You can do the job without removing the upper dash pad if you remove the large bolt in the lower right corner of the dash panel on the passenger side. Removing this bolt will allow you to slightly flex the dash panel toward the rear and get a small ratchet/extension/7mm socket combination on that last pesky screw. Once that last screw is out, the core case halves shoudl separate and expose the heater core. The rest is so self-explanatory that is isn't worth the words. just remember that the core will still contain some coolant, and it isn't easy to wash out ot the carpets.
Again, there is not a lot of space behind the head for the hoses, so compare the angle of the pipes on the replacement core to the original. I had to try THREE replacements in my TA before I found on that had the correct angle on these pipes. The first two would not allow the hoses to connect without kinking. You might want to fill the replacement core with hot water before you install it just to make sure it isn't going to leak from shipping damage or manufacturing defects. It only takes a minute to check.
Once the core case is reassembled and hoses are in place (before you reassemble all the trim), refill the cooling system and run the engine to fill the core with coolant. If everything looks good in the passenger compartment, close up and enjoy the hot air for another month or two.
The only really hard part about changing the heater core is the hoses. There is precious little space behind the cylinder head to work on removing and installing the hoses and clamps, but it can be done if you're patient.
The first thing to do is drain the cooling system. Once drained, you should be able to remove the hoses from the heater core pipe stubs behind the right cylinder head. Remember which one goes where because of size/hose length differences.
The lower dash trim and silencer panels need to be removed from the passenger side to expose the heater core case. Once it is exposed, you should see an array of 7mm hex head Plastite screws holding the heater core case halves together. All of these screws are fairly easy to reach from the passenger's footwell area except for one. There is one Plastite screw in the very top of the heater core case that is difficult to reach from the underside.
For that reason, it is easier for some people to remove the upper dash pad to access this top screw. It isn't really difficult to get the upper dash pad off, and is a good excuse to clean up everything in there with a vacuum cleaner and small brush, change some instrument lamps, etc.
You can do the job without removing the upper dash pad if you remove the large bolt in the lower right corner of the dash panel on the passenger side. Removing this bolt will allow you to slightly flex the dash panel toward the rear and get a small ratchet/extension/7mm socket combination on that last pesky screw. Once that last screw is out, the core case halves shoudl separate and expose the heater core. The rest is so self-explanatory that is isn't worth the words. just remember that the core will still contain some coolant, and it isn't easy to wash out ot the carpets.
Again, there is not a lot of space behind the head for the hoses, so compare the angle of the pipes on the replacement core to the original. I had to try THREE replacements in my TA before I found on that had the correct angle on these pipes. The first two would not allow the hoses to connect without kinking. You might want to fill the replacement core with hot water before you install it just to make sure it isn't going to leak from shipping damage or manufacturing defects. It only takes a minute to check.
Once the core case is reassembled and hoses are in place (before you reassemble all the trim), refill the cooling system and run the engine to fill the core with coolant. If everything looks good in the passenger compartment, close up and enjoy the hot air for another month or two.
Just a clarification guys.
What Vader says is accurate, but I think you need to bear in mind that the space above the heater core box is used differently in different f-bodies and affects access to the 7mm hex screws in the top of the heater box.
(His point about the hoses is also very valid. I had the unenjoyable situation of trying to put these hoses on in the dark because I grossly underestimate the work involved.)
I say this from experience. I tried everything humanly possible to get those screws from the top without dropping the dash off the cowl an it just wasn't physically possible. I have seen threads from others saying it was not problem. I have to assume that this is simply because different things are in these spots based on your specific model/year of f-body.
So, when I said give yourself time above, understand that I had the "access the screws from the top idea" and little-by-little, I came to the realization that this was not possible. I lost alot of time and my temper while coming to that point...
What Vader says is accurate, but I think you need to bear in mind that the space above the heater core box is used differently in different f-bodies and affects access to the 7mm hex screws in the top of the heater box.
(His point about the hoses is also very valid. I had the unenjoyable situation of trying to put these hoses on in the dark because I grossly underestimate the work involved.)
I say this from experience. I tried everything humanly possible to get those screws from the top without dropping the dash off the cowl an it just wasn't physically possible. I have seen threads from others saying it was not problem. I have to assume that this is simply because different things are in these spots based on your specific model/year of f-body.
So, when I said give yourself time above, understand that I had the "access the screws from the top idea" and little-by-little, I came to the realization that this was not possible. I lost alot of time and my temper while coming to that point...
Keith,
I'm sure there are variations in the assembly across the years. My experience is on an '86 TA that has all the options except remote mirrors.
I mentioned that removal of the upper dash pad may be necessary or easier for some people, and there are only four screws in the defroster duct and seven screws across the rear edge of the dash pad. Remove all those and the entire upper dash pad can be removed as one piece - no wires, no cables, no problem.
I still can't understand why some people end up removing the instrument cluster, center console, etc., just to split open the heater case.
I'm sure there are variations in the assembly across the years. My experience is on an '86 TA that has all the options except remote mirrors.
I mentioned that removal of the upper dash pad may be necessary or easier for some people, and there are only four screws in the defroster duct and seven screws across the rear edge of the dash pad. Remove all those and the entire upper dash pad can be removed as one piece - no wires, no cables, no problem.
I still can't understand why some people end up removing the instrument cluster, center console, etc., just to split open the heater case.
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Originally posted by jaymz
You are in luck the 86 is the last year you can remove the heater core without removeing the dash.
You are in luck the 86 is the last year you can remove the heater core without removeing the dash.
And yeah, those top bolts were killer. In fact, I don't think I put the top left one back in!
I didn't have to pop the top of the dash, either.. but it might've been easier that way. Speaking of heater cores, I'll be replacing mine tonight. I have to drive to Michigan and this weekend for a church retreat, and I don't want to inflict the smell of burning coolant on either myself or my passengers for the 3+ hour trip.
Wish me luck!
-- David
Wish me luck!
-- David
Thanks for the advice guys
Thanks guys,
I am not currently using the car but i will be changing the carpet, seats, and upper dash pad over spring break (2 weeks). Since I will have the pad off already I will just change the heater core as well.
Thanks for the input!
--Dan
I am not currently using the car but i will be changing the carpet, seats, and upper dash pad over spring break (2 weeks). Since I will have the pad off already I will just change the heater core as well.
Thanks for the input!
--Dan
In my 87 camaro the heater core install was very easy. I removed the dash pad, the kick panel, the speaker and speaker support, and then the box holding the heater core. Took probably 2 hours total, mostly trying to line up the new core with the holes in the firewall.
Arrrgh!!!
Originally posted by rezinn
Took probably 2 hours total, mostly trying to line up the new core with the holes in the firewall.
Took probably 2 hours total, mostly trying to line up the new core with the holes in the firewall.
It was getting late, so I ended up bypassing the heater core and putting my dash back together and calling it a night. I give up!
Luckily, we're heading into a warm spell, and having heat isn't quite as critical as it was a few days ago. But I'm assuming we're in for at least one or two more cold snaps before winter is over. Any idea what it would cost to have a mechanic finish the job?
To be honest, my car probably isn't worth it, but I need to keep it on life support long enough to save up for a nice GTA sometime this year.

-- David
Chicago, IL
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David,
I don't know if anyone answered this for you yet, but I am going through the same thing right now with the heater core. I called two shops in the Phoenix area and the going rate is right about $600. They will probably tell you they will have to take off the dash board, I was told that twice. So that is why I am going to attempt to fix it myself.
Last week was a bad time to be in ORD without a heater!!!
I don't know if anyone answered this for you yet, but I am going through the same thing right now with the heater core. I called two shops in the Phoenix area and the going rate is right about $600. They will probably tell you they will have to take off the dash board, I was told that twice. So that is why I am going to attempt to fix it myself.
Last week was a bad time to be in ORD without a heater!!!
I just had my neighborhood mechanic do it for $275 (4 labor hours @ $65 per hour + new hoses and coolant), plus $20 for the core itself which I purchased on my own rather than paying $80 for the AC-Delco unit. Either your car's layout must be a bit different than my own, or you're getting royally screwed.
As for the weather, we're actually in a bit of a warm spell right now, so having the heater hasn't been as critical. However, I'm a firm believer in Murphy's Law, so there's no question we would have another artic blast if I hadn't gotten the heater core replaced. (Likewise, now that I've paid $300 to have it replaced, we're virtually guaranteed warm weather from now on!)
Since I only plan on keeping this car a few more months at most, I was sort of hoping I could stick it out until I no longer needed the heater. But the coolant fumes were getting to me, and I was tired of inflicting that upon myself and my passengers.
-- David
Chicago, IL
As for the weather, we're actually in a bit of a warm spell right now, so having the heater hasn't been as critical. However, I'm a firm believer in Murphy's Law, so there's no question we would have another artic blast if I hadn't gotten the heater core replaced. (Likewise, now that I've paid $300 to have it replaced, we're virtually guaranteed warm weather from now on!)
Since I only plan on keeping this car a few more months at most, I was sort of hoping I could stick it out until I no longer needed the heater. But the coolant fumes were getting to me, and I was tired of inflicting that upon myself and my passengers.
-- David
Chicago, IL
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