I've been running 5w30 for the past few years during the summer months 'cause that's what is recommended..but, wouldn't 10w30 be better for warmer climate driver? I don't drive the car in the winter. The 10w30 is a thicker oil too correct ? 70% of my driving is highway.

Thanks in advance for you comments.

 

I always thought 10w-30 was a good all year round oil. That's the only kind I use.

 

i use 10w-30 all year buts thats in california bay area, just rain in the winter

 

the viscosity index was slightly better. but with cost cutting, at mobil-exxon.. .its anybodies guess.

As far north as u are,, i would stick with 5-30

 

we use nothing but 3000 miles 5W-30 brand name dino oil changs. except for me.....5w-30 in the winter 10w-30 in the summer, then 0w-30 in the winter next years.....Start car in very cold weather drive 5 miles shut down, 6 hours later start again and drive home...over and over and over.....I think i need the thinner oil for the short cold trips. Plus it is Moble1 is should be fine.

 

I run 15-50 Mobil 1

 

I don't know why some people think running 50w oil is good, it just cost you horsepower and MPG's because it's so thick, I always run 10w-30 Mobil 1 oil, My engine has 100,000 hard hard miles on it and still runs like new.

 

I use that(15w-50 moble1) it control oil burning. (only exception to my above post)

 

Here is the real poop. 5-30 oils became popular among car manufacturers for two reasons. First, a lighter weight oil improves fuel economy slightly and second it provides better lubrication on cold starts as well as reducing load on the starter and battery. With the abundance of smaller overhead cam engines lube to the top end is critical during those first few minutes of operation. The problem with conventional 5-30 weight is that the base stock tends to cook off faster resulting in oil consumption. My blazer V-6 would use typically a quart or more between oil changes using dead-dino juice. After I switched to Mobile1 I can go 5k on oil change and never have to add anything. If you run a 5-30 I would recommend only synthetic. It uses less viscosity improvers and tends to have better viscosity stability. If you run Mobile1 I really do not think it matters too much what grade you use because the pour point of even thier 15-50 is better than most convential 5-30wt. oils. 0-30, 5-30, 10-30 wt. oils all fall into the category of Energy Conserving. The API donut will indicate this on the bottle. This is a reference test performed by API to indicate that the oil has certain fuel saving characteristics as opposed to a reference non-energy conserving type. Mineral oils use friction modifiers to achieve this, synthetics really don't need any because of thier properties. If you run Mobil1 unless you are in an extremely cold area it really does not matter what viscosity you use, any one will protect your engine. Danno

 

I think M1 is only SG or SH and I saw a shell rotella (some type of farm implement synthetic) that is SK!!

 

I never use anything with a viscosity lower than 10W. I use 10X30 all the way down to -40°F, and the engines still start after sitting out overnight in that temperature (usually start better than the snowmobiles!). Of course it's all Mobil 1.

Danno explained it very well. The pour and pumping points of 5W or 10W (or even 15W) synthetics are only about four degrees Farenheit apart. Like I'm gonna even try to start an engine at -62°F... "Umm, battery? What battery? You mean that chunk of ice sitting in the front corner?"

If you read your owner's manual, the "5W-30" recommendation on the oil filler cap is NOT the best oil to use over +40°F. Further, if you realize how synthetics "cheat" the SAE viscosity grading system, you'll have a better basis to make your decision.

6-spd is probably doing it the right way, since he has taken into consideration the type of driving he normally does and has selected the correct oil on that basis. I'm guessing the choice would be significantly different if that daily trip was 40 miles, not 5. He's doing the right thing for his situation, considering he's using mineral oil.

Synthetics are a different game.

 

Mobil 1 5W-30 here.

 

20w-50 when I had my turbo
10w-30 on my N/A
10w-40 on my maverick, celica b/c it loved to eat oil
10w30 on my camaro also

 

i run mobil1 0-30 myself

 

I believe API is going to skip SK. Evidently there is some conflict because of a Korean oil marketer using that set of letters. New oil will be SL if my sources are correct. Danno

 

Me too.

:hail:IROC-Z
:hail:Mobil 1

 

I run 5w-30 mobil