Which one works better for Q-jets in our cars? How nice do the dual snorkels usually look if you have to make them? Also, for anyone with open element, did you have to run a drop base?

 

I got the K&N drop base and 3" filter. Clears fine even with a 1" carb spacer.

 

ive got an open element on my car

with a k&n 14x5 filter. but then again, im running the bb hood as well. i think the open air element works better as long as you have a cowl induction or scoop supplying air to it.

 

First, do you have emissions testing (visual) in your area? If so, dual snorkle.

Second, if you want cool, denser air go with the dual snorkle. It will flow just as much as the open element.

The only reason I don't care for open element air cleaners is that they get the hot underhood air. The cooler and denser the air is, the better in my opinion.

Mark

 

Open elements draw in air from the engine compartment that is hot and you will thus experience the universal "off idle stumble" that is the signature of this setup.

Dual snorkels draw in cool air from in front of the car at idle, thus no stumble. At speed the dual snorkel acts as a ram air/cold air induction system and adds tangible hp to the engine. Quarter mile tests by both Hot Rod and Chevy High Performance have proven that this aircleaner alone knocks .25 secs off the ET of a 305 4bbl engine 3rd gen Camaro.

The dual snorkle set up draws its air in from the headlight pocket area. You also must keep in mind that hood scoops draw in whatever happens to be in front of them, be it snow or rain or whatever. Sometimes this will cause you grief.

The GM factory dual snorkle cleaner is situated such that the air it uses is initially drawn up to the funnels from the headlight pockets, allowing gravity to dispense with the snow and rain, etc.

This is why I would go with a cowl induction scoop rather than a ram air hood scoop--it will draw in its air from the low pressure area at the base of the windshield but heavier ovjects like rain and snow will be carried past the cowl and over the windshield. You can also put a screen in the opening of the cowl scoop in order to filter out really lousy stuff like leaves and whatnot.

Also keep in mind that you don't need a massive airfilter or scoop to feed even a very high horsepower engine. In this month's Car Craft they dyno test a 520 hp big block Mopar with all sizes of K&N filters from a really tiny 7x3 inch one all the way out to a giant 14x6 jobbie and it made absolutely NO difference to the engine!! Each one allowed the engine to generate the same hp!!

So, as long as your scoop is large enough for the filter, that is all you need. On a 3rd gen that would indicate the need for nothing larger than 1 1/2 or 2 inch cowl induction hood scoop. No need for those gargantuan 4 and 6 inch scoops restricting what you can see out the front of your car.

Besides, to me understatement and subtlety is what makes a car look classy, intriguing and dangerous

 

the dual snorkel air cleaner is the way to go unless you have some type of cowl hood or forward facing hood scoop to get cold air up there. hot air is bad for many reasons which makes the dual snorkel better.

 

I used a dual snorkel on my Formula, I just like the way they look but not how much they cost.

 

id like to get a dual snorkle (im sure it can be set up to perform better), but i paid much less for the setup i have now, and i dont think i have a whole lot of hot, underhood air to worry about since my car runs at about 130-160 constantly.

 

Cody, you said "used" as in past tense? Does that by chance mean you have one laying around somewhere??

 

I had one laying around, sold it about a month ago for $202.

 

Yes but that is over the stock single snorkel, what is the difference over a good sized open element?

I prefer open element, you flow more air than you can on a dual snorkel set up, minimising the loss from the hotter air. Also you get more induction roar and can flow far more air when sprinting off the line.. the dual snorkel is better for top end as the ram effect like Sitting Bull said. Besides it is far cheaper and doesn't take as much room up under the hood.

 

An open element can't outflow a dual snorkel. Read the Car Craft review, which I already quoted. The size of the element is immaterial (within reason).

With 100% identical cars, one with an open element and one with a dual snorkel, the dual snorkel will get to the end of the quarter mile at least .25 secs sooner.

Why? Becaise of the ram air/cold air induction effect.

Them's the facts, as modern science has proven.

Of course, if you like loud then open element is the way to go.

 

Car Craft huh, they are far from scientific. At least .25 faster in the quarter, I'm sure you meant in some cases. Most dual snorkle set-ups aren't really 'ram-air', since they aren't directly in the air stream and aren't large enough. For sure, right off the line an open element has the airflow advantage--no matter how you build a dual snorkle is has to have some restriction, it's air flowing through a tube. The difference in et between the two will probably be near zero if the rest of the engine is 'retuned' for the different set-up--timing, carb jetting, ..... This arguement will go on for ever--neither open element or dual snorkle is going to be better in every case. A gauranteed reduction it quarter mile et either way is BS.

 

Agreed, we could argue forever. However, there is a universally recognised off idle stumble from the open element filter due to that hot under hood air. That is not the case with a dual snorkel, as it draws its air from the front of the car.

I can see no reason whatsoever that "For sure, right off the line an open element has the airflow advantage--no matter how you build a dual snorkle is has to have some restriction, it's air flowing through a tube." What difference does that make? It is still getting sufficient air for the engine's needs. That is ALL that matters.

And whether you approve of Car Craft or not, you must address their dyno tests in order to undermine their results. This you have not done.

I rest my case.

 

Dyno testing. Never seen a dyno run through the quarter mile or have under hood temps. Off idle stumble from the additional air not so much from hotter air. In either case this CAN be fix with some tuning, and take advantage of the open element.

"It is still getting sufficient air for the engine's needs." If all that matters is getting enough air into the engine, what is the point of ram air? More 02 makes more power, if you can supply enough fuel. An engine "needs" little air to work. But the more air you can get into the engine the more energy is produced. Having some type of restriction on getting air into the engine reduces the amount of air that gets into the engine.

I like car craft, I read car craft. But some of the 'tests' they do are far from accurate in the real world.

Take a third-gen, with a dual snorkle set-up. Tune it until no more quarter mile gains are possible. Put on an open element and tune it until no more quarter mile gains are possible. Make 20 runs with each set-up and lets look at the numbers.

 

I get the impression that you would argue black is white at this point. The ram air effect derived from the dual snorkel aircleaner creates high pressure, thus forcing more air into the engine and increasing horsepower. Simple, and proven, physics. The same as a supercharger but much less dramatic in scale and effect.

You are the only person I have ever seen argue that the off idle stumble is from too much air. It is, in fact, from the hot under hood air as hot air cannot create as much horsepower due to the fact it is less dense.

 

I know how ram air works. You have to be going fast for it to work. The hose needs to be big and as straight as possible, with the intake right in the air stream--stock ones aren't. They are more cold air than ram air.

Too much air, too much hot air--either way you can tune it out. Lots and lots of people run open elements without a stumble.

Like I said above, if both are tuned to the optimum you won't see much if any power gain either way.