I have a 1991 TA with 305 TPI and 5 speed. Can I change the cam without removing the engine?

If so, what has to be done?

Thanks.

 

The short answer is yes. Do a search in this forum, this Q gets asked about twice a day.

 

Yep, you'll have to remove everything in front of the engine, and probably rent a harmonic balancer puller, that's what I did.

 

and a timing gear puller as well

 

Okay.. WHY do you need a timing gear puller ? He's not changing the timing chain... just the cam!

 

i believe the timing chain has to come off to pull out the cam? maybe im wrong

 

oops yeah that gear is held onto the cam with bolts,

 

I replaced my cam with the engine in the car. You will need to remove all the accessories, water pump, timing chain cover, cam timing sprocket, harmonic balancer, radiator, metal support thingy in front of the radiator (gets in the way of pulling the cam out), distributor, intake manifold (and everything on top of it), lifters, pushrods, valve covers (to loosen the rockers). I think thats everything.

In short, you will have to tear the engine down to only the block, oil pan, heads and headers.

While you have al lthis apart, I would reccomend reaplcing the timing chain with at least a new one, or an aftermarket double-roller type.

 

He has a 91 TA so the accessories can stay in place. ONLY the water pump needs to be removed. Changing the timing chain isnt a bad idea, but it's not necessary unless have an ugodly amount of miles on the engine.

 

Well on my egnine some of the accessory brackets are in the way of getting the water pump off.

 

Change the timing chain...even if its an OE one. The chain streches even if there isnt an ungodly amount of miles on the engine. You'll see the difference in the idle.

 

How did you get the cam out with the rad and timing cover in the way?

 

I totally agree. Eventhought the OE timing chains don't need changed until 150k I believe, it's still a good idea to buy a new one, it will help restore some lost power, plus the fact it's so accessible while changing cams.

 

:hail: :hail:

 

I'm pretty sure he's excluding those, but maybe talking about the alternator and water pump??
If not, I'd like to see how he did that one, unless his last name is Houdini.

 

Hellooooo.... I was refering to the accesories that need to be removed. If you really want get smart about it, you CAN remove the cam w/out taking the rad of ever the fans out. Chop it up with a torch... LOL

 

True, but I'd like to see you slide the new cam in thru the distributor hole lol

 

my engine had 100k on it when i swapped cams and i got a new double roller chain, it had a lot less slack in it than the oe one.

 

Thanks for all of the advise.

So for the 305 I won't have to remove all of the top of engine stuff???

Sounds like just everything in the front.

Any reconnendations on a double roller timing chain?

Anything else to change while all of this is appart?? Probably put a new waterpump on too.

Thanks again.

 

You have to remove the whole top half, intake, carb/tpi, distributor, valve covers too. You'll need to buy gaskets also. And be sure to scrape off any and all old gaskets.
When we did it on my 305 I just bought a Summit Double roller I believe it was , check www.summitracing.com .
You'll need new lifters with the cam and unless it's a roller cam will need to be broken in. Meaning you'll need oil/filter for 2 oil changes.
I'm sure i missed something, but I'm trying to give you the basics.

Oh, put a rag in the distributor hole and the holes on the intake ports.

 

Don't worry about a new water pump as long as yours is flowing fine, unless you want to save some weight and buy an aluminum one.
Also, you'll need to readjust the rocker arms once the cam is in, not exactly sure how to do it, I'll leave that for someone else. Also a trick is to put you lifters in some tranny fluid to help pump them up, just cut a milk jug in half and let them soak overnite, I think I remember Vader saying he put his in a pot and warmed the oil up some?

 

Thanks Mark.

Looks like I'd be getting myself in real deep here.

Might have to see how much my mechanic would charge to do this once I am ready to take the $$$$ plunge.

Guess I'll get the heads and cat back on first and worry about the cam later.

Thanks again to all!

 

Are you talking about pre-loading the lifters?

If so you gotta keep tightening the rocker nut while you twist the pushrod with your fingers. Just at the point where it stops twisting, give the rocker nut a final 1/4 turn. But you pre-load the lifters when that valve is open.

 

if I recall, just soaking the lifters in a container of oil won't fill them, you have to pump the lifters with a rod while they are submerged in the oil so it will enter them.