this guy i know wants to run my Corvette from a roll. he claims to have a 300+hp 5speed, 96' FWD Eagle Talon. now i dont think hes quite at the 300hp mark just yet. i need some opinions from you guys to see if hes off the mark. i know there are a few DSM guys on the board, please help me out if you can.

his list of mods are:
- cold air
- BOV
- intercooler hard pipes
- cat back exhaust
- boost controller (set to 15lbs)

now keep in mind the factory rates these cars stock at somewhere around 200-210hp. i think he thinks his car is so fast cause he only races from a punch... and by doing so not only eliminates the turbo lag at low speed, but keeps his car in its high rpm powerband.

so what do you think? did he really increase his power output 50% with these simple mods?

 

He should be quick but I dont know. When I had my 96 Z28 I ran a 13.02. A guy I worked with had pretty much the same thing and I beat him by about a car and a half from a 20mph roll to 100mph.

Should be interesting.

Brian

 

negative...not 300hp.

talons are fast no doubt, but i think he would need a few more mods to be close to that.

i wanna get a 98 talon tsi. mmmm awd..

:hail:

 

From a roll the FWD Talon is pretty damn quick. However the T2small is a limiting factor. Depending on the driver he might take you as those things pull like mad from a roll especially when you get rid of the various limiting factors such as stock exhaust etc and the crappy plastic/metal intake and intercooler hoses. Don't underestimate what a boost controller exhaust and intake can do for an otherwise stock DSM or any of the other "good" turbo cars.

 

He could be close. I've played around behind the wheel of a few turbo dsm's and they really seem to come into boost almost immediately. The fwd dsm's are frickin impossible to hook up. You can smoke the tires at will in first gear from a stop or a roll, even in a stock car.

 

take him out on I95 and lay the smack down on him! don't let him fool you. he got less weight on you and if he can drive most likely can hook up at low speeds (10-25mph) which will hole shot you but at higher speeds from 65+ i think you'd pull him. thats why i like my 2.59 rear gear from 65+mph in 2nd gear hold on!

from 60mph punches i've out ran to 100+mph a few mid 12 second cars fairly easy. it's the down low grunt they murder me.

 

what's your car trap?

 

There are some non-awd TSi's out there.

 

mine or 89's?

mine traps around 99 his i think at 103-104?!?!?

 

test drove 93 laser turbocharged and intercooled the other day.. it was fwd also it was definately a quick car for stock but with fwd it had major traction problems on the 1-2 shift. i havent found exact times on em yet but its around 15 sec if it is bone stock kinda lacked on the top end. hope the info helps

 

ive already raced him on my local streets from both a stop and a 50 - 100mph roll. of course i murdered him from a stop, and i would have been door to door with him from a roll but it takes forever for my car to downshift when flooring it, so he got the jump on me and held that 1-2 length lead until we shut down.

now he wants me to take on both him and his buddy (who drives a similarly modded turbo Eclipse) on I95... from about 50 - 120mph. sounds interesting huh? a basically stock TPI car in a 3 way race with 2 modded FWD turbo DSMs. the look on their faces when i pull ahead will be priceless

Mad-Mic... when this happens, wanna meet up with us and film it for me?

 

That would be sick to see. I hope it happens.

Brian

 

Oh HELL Yeah! let me know! tues thurs fri after 8pm i can be up your way. sat after 4, and sun anytime thats including the 1 hour+ drive.

i got a friend that will let me borrow a (4) set of 16" vette tires and rims when i want too. i think i am gonna take him up on his offer so i can take all 4 of mine off and fine sand and polish them out. he's selling the rims if you are interested. i *think* 200 bucks. tires are old and hard but suffice for my purpose of getting some track times till i get some loot and buy some new ones for my 17's

BTW i started at a Mercedes dealer in annapolis and i get wholesale discounts at Mr. Tire! so guess who is getting 2 new tires next pay check 2 more a month later to finish out my set just something to tie me over till i get a networking job and make some real loot.

oh and yes the Mercedes SL 500 kompressor AMG 55's are bad *** cars. they run around 500 hp but the costs are 130k or so....

 

YES, a vid of that race would be awesome!!!!

 

What does a boost controller do if you have a stock turbo?

 

you can crank the boost up a little bit, but not enough to make any real power if its still the stock turbo. Still, any bit of power helps I guess.

 

I just sold my 95 Talon FWD less than a week ago and bought my 89 Formula 350.

My talon had a K&N, a 1g BOV, and hard pipes. I changed from stock to those all at once. It was a noticable difference in "butt dyno" but nothing outrageous!!!

The boost controller just allows you to turn boost up or down infinatly on any turbo. Talons run around 11psi stock, but the stock T-25 runs out of air at 15psi and will die after prolonged use at 17psi+. 15psi is standard for these guys, IF they are really running a t-25 (known as a t-too small) there are other turbos that everyone upgrades too that look just like a t-25. But even with the mods he has he will only be up about 15hp on the mods, and maybe 10-15 turning up the boost.

My FF 350 is supposed to jsut have run 14.25 in the 1/4 but still feels slower than my talon. I think changing from a stick to a auto has me off a little...since i havent hammered the car yet and shifted manually....

Talons are quick, but like some other cars i know...cough cough TPI.....run out of breath after 5000rpm

just my $.02 from owning the car your racing...

 

this guy supposedly has a 16g turbo that has been "ported and clipped" whatever that means. the original turbo was bad when he bought the car, and he replaced it with this one. hes running 16lbs with it in addition to : intercooler hard pipes, aftermarket BOV, catback exhaust, cold air. its also a FWD car with a 5speed trans.

as soon as i get my Vette tuned and dialed in, were racing from a 50 - 120mph roll. hell be at his perfromance peak at those speeds, while my TPI car will be at its weakest. guess the ricers have to have every advantage they can get when trying to beat V8s

 

You're not going to win this one. Clipping the turbo sacrifices some early boost (slightly more turbo lag) but adds higher end power.
You're going to lose. Be sure to post a vid though!

 

man i like running from 60mph on up. 2nd gear pulls hard as hell till 5k rpm. i wish D pulled that hard but it serves it's purpose.

let me know when your ready. tues night i'm going to borrow some stock 16" rims from a friend for the vette till i get some new meat on mine.

 

you think? ive already run him from a roll, and he only got me by a car cause he was in gear (5speed) and i had to wait for my trans to downshift (auto) when we both took off. plus, ive done some more stuff to my car, while his is the same. this time ill leave in 2nd so my trans wont take forever to downshift.

 

Try to race him around noon-1 on a very hot and humid day or after you guys have been driving around for about an hour, then you'll probably win if he has the stock side mount intercooler. If you race him at night and he knows how to drive and his car is cooled down... I don't see good things happening.

 

Tony you got the TB Bypassed?

TPI's don't like hot humid weather either

BTW i'm going to pick up my friends stock 16" rims/tires to throw on the vette tomorrow night and we all might hit cecil friday night

 

True but not to the extent that a turbo car doesn't.

 

yep, TB is bypassed... along with just about every other free mod for these cars. im in the process of removing the AIR system, and ill be trying the cut back spark plug mod as well. i also want to try removing the front sway bar to free up weight transfer during launching (for Cecil only). finally, im wrapping up my mod list with a much needed trans cooler. i hope to have everything done by the weekend so i to can go to the track on Fri.

when i get some track results from these newest mods, ill let the Talon guy know im ready. hopefully my mph will improve (indicating a power increase) and we can get this top end race underway

 

Tony whats the spark plug mod you talk about?

removing the sway bar during normal driving conditions is pretty dangerous from what i hear in our vettes. if i can't run it on the street that way i won't run it at the track.

btw i got a hayden tranny cooler for mine i want to put in when i get my stall and trans go kit

 

what is the spark plug mod? i got bosch plat +4's


BTW i got a hayden tranny cooler just want to add the stall and a trans go kit first

 

ive never been a fan of Bosch plugs. personally i have had good luck with A/C Delcos. i used to run the rapidfires, but now ive swapped them out for the standard Delco plugs with the cut back ground electrodes. theres a guy on corvetteforum.com who dyno tested this mod over his rapidfires and gained 8hp (not sure if its rwhp or not). i havent ran my car since i installed these (im still in the middle of removing AIR), but ill let you know how they turn out.

heres a link to a site explaining what a cutback plug looks like and how the theory works: http://performanceunlimited.com/illu...parkplugs.html

BTW- im not sure you would want to try this with an expensive plug like the Bosch +4s. my standard set of Delcos cost me $10, so if i mess up a few learning to get it just right, it wont cost an arm and a leg. to be honest, im not even sure you could do this to a multi-electrode plug.

the sway bar mod id only use at the track. another guy on corvetteforum has the same gears, converter, and DRs as me (as well as being modded almost exactly the same) and cuts 1.73 60fts with his sway bar removed

 

Very interesting, this side gapping. I will try it sometime on my Spitfire at the chassis dyno. Does it cause a lean condition, or shall I say would it cause the mixture to burn hotter? Is carb retuning required?

 

i gotcha.

back when i was a teenager i used to over gap my plugs to .02 over or more. then index them moving the open gap to the center of the combustion chamber. works really good.

bosch plat +4's already take advantage of this if you look at their design. i have nothing but good things to say about those plugs. i even put the +2's in the saturn

 

it should not cause a lean condition. unless you are already on the edge of being lean. for the most part it will burn the fuel more efficiently, giving you more hp and better fuel economy. so my answer would be no but do routinely check for a lean condition. if so then rejet the carb with a larger jet.

i used the bosch +4's to fix a rich condition in my vette. our vettes run rich as hell from the factory and this helped along with some other tuning. i really need to get a fuel pressure regulator to take advantage of my setup.

 

i have a spare Hypertech AFPR just sitting in my garage. if you want it, youre welcome to it

 

whats that? a chip?

*duh* gotcha. yeah man sure. don't know how to hook it up though but i guess i can figure it out

i want to pick one of these up also for tuning. makes it really easy!

http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_st...d=2226257_9965

this was posted by a friend of mine in florida that owns one and for 220 bucks right up my alley

The scanner if VERY easy to use.

You plug in, turn the car on, and set up the tool.

You select GM, year model, make of car, then the specific model (it will also let ZR1 guys scan).

After that, you get a main screen that allows you to:

View codes
Erase codes
look up codes
View Data
record data
Field Service Mode

And other neat options.

On the view data, you can see all the data possible, simply scroll the screen up and down as you can only see about 6 lines of text at one time. Or...(my favorite), you select data you want to see....O2 readings, loop status, volts, air intake temp, water temp, RPM, speed, TPS, MAP, idle air motor steps, block learn, etc.

If you are trying to set your TPS, you no longer need to fuss with a voltmeter and test probes, you just set the scanner on that, ignition on, position it where you can see it, and make your adjustments.

You can also set it to start recording data when it sets a code. Very handy if you have a hit and miss problem.

It will tell you on the newer C4, when the fan is requested, a/c request, etc.