My car:

305 L69
.030 over
Hyperutetic pistons
416 rebuilt heads
edelbrock carb.
edelbrock performer intake
Summit racing cam .420 in/ .442 ex. 262 in/ 272 ex. advertised duration
1.5:1 roller rockers
50,000 volt coil
8 mm spark plug wires
2055 hooker headers
Hooker aero chamber exhaust 3 inch all the way
700r4
posi rear end with 4.10's
full synthetics in everything ( not that it makes a whole lot of difference)

VS.

1990 Camaro RS
350 tbi
K&N
American thunder flowmaster exhaust 2.5 inch all the way out
5 speed

Who would win and what times do you guys think both would run at sea level?

 

What has been done to the car with the 350? Did he just throw a 350 TBI in the car or did he build it and properly set it up. I will say that your car is faster. 99 out of 100 people do a 350 TBI swap wrong and thus run slower than they did previously.

 

It was already in when he got it. Lets just assume everything is in and running in good condition.

 

I think you'll show him tail lights.

 

Nice 305. I'm not a fan of Edelbrock but it looks like you have a pretty stout 5.0L engine under that hood. Any track times or dyno for your car?

I'd say you'll take him unless he has a pretty worked 350 TBI.

 

As long as you're not overcarbed you should win this with your 305. The 2bbl stock POS on the 350tbi isn't worth speaking of. You should easily be able to take him. He might win in a towing contest though so don't let him talk you into pulling a sled.

 

is his motor a l05 or what. with all your mods you should have more bark and more bite but less money lol.

 

lol yeah. Its an lo5. i might start running nitrious through it untill it goes and then transfering most of my parts to a 355, but thats for another day. Thanks for the complements guys. Yeah i'm almost positive that i'll beat the crap out of it but just wanted to see what you guys said. Oh if it help the last time i raced an auto lt1 with my stock 3.23's i only lost by a car length and then a couple weeks after he ran a 14.1, corrected to sea level of course.

 

I think the 305 would get spanked. Given It would mostly be driver Error, but still I think you'll get your A handed to ya phoenix.

 

well at least i'd loose from driver error instead of my car just being plain slow like yours flash. Oh by the way i really like the roses you have on your back windows! lame.

 

ha ha i just got it okay gimme time & i like my engraved roses also....Almost as much as your BROWN PAINT. hahaha

 

yep but even if my car was painted rainbow color it would still look better than your rustang, and always will.

 

rainbow's better than brown

 

Take your little discussion to PM and stop wasting bandwidth in this thread.

 

Assuming they have done the necessary tuning an LO5 only makes about 220hp and 350 or so ft lbs. With the mods he listed his 305 should be making equal to or more than that LO5. Chances are that LO5 swap has been done incorrectly and he is only running the same times as he did with the LO3. 999 out of 1000 people will do an LO5 swap the wrong way and be slower than stock as a result.

 

HA HA Ya shifty I know he'd Beat 'em, but he's one of my buddies and everyone took hid side, I had to poke fun at himone way or another.

 

Race the cars already and don't forget to post the results.

 

I'd like to think my 305 was putting out more than a stock L05 but thanks for the input. i'll have to put my g tech on it and get some numbers for now. still in the process of breaking in my 4.10's. you have to put 500 easy miles on them correct. they didn't come with any recommendations for break in.

 

you should be putting out around 240 hp I'd guess.

 

thats what i was thinking hopefully 240-250 horses at the wheels.
Next round of mods will be 1.6:1 roller rockers and march underdrive pulleys, so hopefully that will help.

 

i was thinking more along the lines of 240-250 at the fly....

 

haha....yah but wait til that guy with that 5.0 just puts bolt ons on his engine he wouldnt need to waste gas on you.

 

if i'm only making 250 at the fly then how am i running, and pretty sure i can take down an lt1? seeing as how i only lost by a car length to one before the 4.10's but what ever you want to think.

 

go look at mw66nova's car, he has basically the same mods as me except a slightly larger cam and a aftermarket stall and he's running 13.7's.

 

You underestimate how much an aftermarket stall helps. You can knock .5 off your e/t just by getting a good stall that's matched to your cam's power band. You're also running a th400 which has tons of parasitic loss. Yea it won't break but it's not ideal for your power level. A TH350 or 2004r would be better if you're trying to get everything you can out of that 305 for some reason.

 

Putting it on a chassis dyno removes all doubt about how much hp it's making at the wheels. Post the results from the dyno and the race.

 

the 700r4 and 2200 rpm stall are going in as soon as i can get the tranny rebuilt. I don't care i'm gonna see how much i can get out of the 305 then drive her hard and when she lets go i'll switch or up grade most of the part into either a 327 or 355. And i will post up the race result but my buddy is rebuilding the heads right now so it will be a while, and i'm hoping to get it on the dyno after my underdrive pulleys and 1.6:1 rockers and tranny of course.

 

I vote in favor of the 327 chase.

 

which dyno
mustang, dynojet, or one of the MANY others

 

yeah but the hard part is finding a 327 block. I'll try to find a 327 first but in the case that doesn't happen i will be building a 355.

 

why can't you just use a 350 block for a 327?

 

You dont need a 327 block to make 327 cid. A 350 has the same bore as a 327: 4.00 inches. All you need is a 327 crank or an aftermarket one, dont hold me to this but I think 3.25" stroke. Personally I would just go for the 350. If you put in lightweight pistons and keep the rotating assembly light, you can rev it up just as fast as any 327, what limits your rpms is your valvetrain and head flow. Also the longer crank will make a little more torque across your power band and help it out alittle in streetability.

 

Hmm yeah, i don't know its still kind of up in the air. I like the 327 just from a few stories i've heard and just for the originality of them. We'll see though.

 

You need 327 pistons also they are a little longer than 350 pistons. Trust me just go with the 350 they make more torque than a 327 and thats what you need to win a race. I just went with a 327 because I got a killer deal on the engine. You can get a short block 350 for about $700 to $900 on ebay and several places here in NC.

 

I would be building the entire thing. Just like i did with the 305, no short blocks for me. I enjoy building my own moters saves money too.

 

all hail the all oh so amazing chase....

 

you wasted time and money on a 305? the power potential for the 350 is so much greater, not only that but you can buy 350 replacement parts at Wal Mart practically. i have a 305 in the garage (its actually in my derby truck) that when the cam went flat at 70K, i had a hard time justifying pulling it apart, cleaning and regasketing it, and putting a $75 cam and lifter set in it. an absolute money pit if you're looking for performance.

 

hmmmm...i don't really have that much money tied up into my actual motor combo and the little bastard ran a 13.08@102.74mph last month...just figured i'd post what a 305 is capable of...showing stock ls1 tailights is fun as crap! the look on their face when i told them i'm running a 305 was frickin' priceless man! now some of the big money items i have would be an ATI 10" 2400 stall converter/heavily built 700r4...but these things will go behind my 4" bore motor i'm buildng right now just the same as my little 305. i enjoyed building and running the **** out of my motor...gonna go back to the track in a few weeks with the cooler air lookin' for that 12.90 pass, from an n/a daily driven 305!

 

see thats what i'm hoping for with my car, not quite as fast because my car weights a good 300 lbs. more, but i'm hoping to get it to the mid 13's n/a then i might slap some laughing gas on it and then see how it does.

 

i have a firebird with a 305 and ran it against a trans am with a 350 and the firebird outran the trans am. both cars are stock besides the msd coil blaster on the firebird. i was suprised and not really sure why the firebird is faster but we beat it by about a car length.

 

see thats what i'm hoping for with my car, not quite as fast because my car weights a good 300 lbs. more, but i'm hoping to get it to the mid 13's n/a then i might slap some laughing gas on it and then see how it does.

See you say that now but trust me just like everybody that has a mid 13s car wants a 12 sec car without NOS. Everybody has that itch for more power once they get power, especially since alot of cars today come from the factory running 13s. So ask yourself do you want to just hang with the newer cars out on the road (maybe lose to them) or do you want to beat them!

Prime example!

now some of the big money items i have would be an ATI 10" 2400 stall converter/heavily built 700r4...but these things will go behind my 4" bore motor i'm buildng right now just the same as my little 305.

mw66nova has that itch!

You can buy a $900 short block with hyper flat top pistons or pay $1200 with forged pistons and be done with it! But if you want to take the long route and build your 305 and change your mind later an build a 350 or bigger (an you will) go for it.

 

yes sir i do! the new motor (350 .060 over) WILL run 12.0's n/a with good street manners in street trim (ie drag radials but all street equipment) i will even be taking a small weight hit and putting the power steering back on...but i'll be lookin for ways to make it lighter...

since i broke the 305 (trashed a piston ring land) i've picked up an 88 mustang 5.0/5spd lx vert (it's a POS!...seriously, payed $1000 for it!) for my everyday daily driving "b!tch" work as it were. so, therefore my camaro will be receiving quite the motor and while it will remain fully street legal to include the interior, etc....i'll be figuring weighs to get the thing to drop under #3000...right now it weighs #3010, add #20 for the back seat and #20 for the powersteering and i'm up to #3050, so i gotta come up with a way to drop #51.

 

No matter howm uch a POS it is, DONT do any mods....its how I became a Mustang guy. I had a damn wicked project ThirdGen in the works and i did ONE mod and got seduced into the 5.0 world....from then on Ive lsowly but surely became a Mustang guy....I barely have anything chevy anymore, its all being replaced with ford stuff

 

don't worry, it won't get many mods...i wouldn't mind making it nice, but the thirdgen is for my go-fast stuff.

quick question for you: we lowered the mustang before i bought it and it really slammed the car to the ground. well, it's got the inner part of the front tires worn out pretty badly now and i'm wondering if there is anyway for there to be some camber adjustment in the front end.

 

You can buy an adjustable camber kit to fix that.

 

yeah, but it's like $150 or so and i was just wondering if there is any adjustment in the stock stuff.

 

Most cars don't come with factory adjustable camber. I know a lot of Honda guys have a longer bolt trick to use on the back wheels, but I have no idea if the same thing is possible on a Mustang. For one you don't need the back, and second Hondas have independant rear suspension, I don't know if there is a difference for solid axle set-ups.

 

Oh yeah I almost forgot.

$150 huh? Well how much are new front tires every 3 months?

 

You need a Caster/Camber kit....I assume you used Sportlines instead of the pro kit or you lowered it beyond 2.5 inches?

The pro-kit doesnt require the use of the caster/camber kit (usually)

Myself, Im going with Ford motorsport C springs...they wont require me to get caster/camber plates, are cheap help my launches, and drop it justl iek I want it...mean as hell looking


UPR products makes the kit and its 150 bucks. Look on EBay, corral.net, stangnet.com or osmewhere and you can watch them go CHEAP! Once you do that, the whole car will drive 20x's better trust me. Its well worth the cost and will help it handling and driveability-wise tenfold.

Good luck with the 2 rival cars....I succumbed to the "dark side"

 

UPR huh? i'll keep that it mind. need new tires first, i'll pick up the caster/camber kit next. the mustang has new replacement shocks/struts and has an ebay brand lowering spring on it but i think they are "comparable" to the sportlines.

the camaro will recieve full drag treatment but still have stock style suspension and full interior...it WILL be one of the fastest/quickest cars here in Macon, maybe not with this next motor, but in the next year or so, it's going to be getting some serious work.

the mustang will already has 1 3/4" coated bbk longtubes and offroad h-pipe along with a 2 1/2" flowmaster catback. these are the only go-fast goodies it will recieve. i simply have no desire to do anything else to the motor. i'm also going to see about running an electric fan to get the drag off the motor (increased mpg desired here) i'd like the suspension to be completely up to par though cause i may do some auto-x with it...we'll see...either that, or i'd really like to find someone willing to trade me the mustang for a v6/5spd thirdgen camaro/bird. that'd be REALLY nice.