Hey,
Just trying to get an idea of how most of you guys run your cars.. Do those of you who don't have traction problems brake torque to the point of almost losing traction? Also, do you keep the car in D, or run through each gear? (I personally put the car in 2, let the trans do the first shift, then I shift it into 3rd) Thanks

 

I personaly do the same thing as you.
When at the drag strip I power brake when the light is about to hit yellow then let em spin fully when it hits yellow backing off a bit when it goes green so it will hook up. On the street where light timing is unpredictable I just leave it in D and power brake until the coast is clear. This leaves my eyes on the road in case someone pops around the corner into the same lane. Safety is more of an issue than a 12 sec run on the street, Ive never even looked at my speedo or tach when street racing for fear of a crash so for me at least its easyer to leave it in D.
SSC

 

personally my eyes are glued on the tach, even in both my auto's!

My 82Z I shift manually because the govener is for a 2.73 rear and I have 3.73's, but my 85Z shifts nice so I leave it in Drive.
on both I load the TC just a little so the drivetrain doesn't get much of a shock.

 

I definitely agree that it is key to be paying more attention to the road when street racing. A night of fun can be ruined by that bastard that floored it to make the left turn arrow.. I've seen it happen

 

2250rpms dump and ride the clutch to keep her on my bald rock solid H tires. If not they break loose and i go crazy all over the road = /

------------------
1990 G92 5spd LB9 - 3.42 80,000 miles

Accel Ignition/Wires (8.8mm), Advanced Timing, TB Bypass, Ported and Gasket Matched Plenum, Synthetic Motor Oil, 160 Thermo, TPIS Airfoil, K&N Air Filters, Centerforce I Pressure Plate and Clutch, Edelbrock TES Headers, Dual Cats, Edelbrock RPM Series Catback, Homemade Ram Air, Bosch +4 Platinum Plugs

14.4 @ 94mph w/2.0622 60ft (w/o headers and catback)

14.426 @ 96.19mph w/2.167 60ft(w/headers and catback)

Also newly modded w/o track times:

Holley AFPR, Underdrive Pulleys, KYB Shocks and Struts, Crane Ignition

 

i got an 83 with a 700 r4 and i usually
hold the brake and build as much rpms as the torque converter will let me(1600) and keep it at that until the light turns green! theirs no better feeling then feeling the rear end of ur car stand up a bit and screach the tires off the line as much as the manual ur racing!

 

I've got MAJOR traction problems, but I can usually get away with powerbraking it just enough to get the dirt off the tires, then foot brake it to 1,500RPM, let the brake off and slowly roll into it. I can't go WOT until late into 1st, or after the 1-2.

It sucks, I KNOW I can knock 1-2 seconds off if I had the traction.

And I ALWAYS manually shift it @5K


[This message has been edited by 812MANY (edited August 09, 2001).]

 

When I race at the track I prestage and then power brake until the tires start to spin just a little and then back off the accelerator just a little. Then I let the car roll very slowly into the stage area. I react, not anticipate, the last yellow I release the brake and gently easy into the throttle. Depending on how tacky the track is sometimes I can hit the accelerator harder than others. Normally I feather the car through a little tire spin and as soon as I feel it start to hook around 20-30 ft I mash it, and do the shifting myself about 5000-5500.

------------------
'89 Red Formula 350- 350 .060 over forged pistons 232* @ .020 cam Performer RPM Holley 750 DP Vortec 1.94 1.50 Accel Coil and dist. Hedman shorty headers Dual Exhaust w/ cutouts 1LE WS6 suspension, wheels, and brakes, 9 Bolt 3.27 Posi Edelbrock LCA's & Track bar subframe connectors 700R4 A&A snorkel scoop Eclipse Head Unit Delco Bose Speakers 2 12" Pioneer subs w/ 400 watt/chanel amp

 

I bring my RPM's up to 1300-1400 on the foot brake. I leave at 1/2 throttle, feathering into it more as the car hooks up-barely getting a little squeal out of the tires. If I hit it too hard the tires just become molten rubber engulfed in smoke

All depends on the car, the engine it has, the driver driving it, and the suspension/tires. All cars react differently. If you have a TPI car with a higher than stock stall speed convereter, try my method. It'll give ya big



------------------
Mike L.
It ain't pretty.......

1987 IROC Z TPI 350 A4 3.27 Borg-Warner.

Mods: 2300-2500 Stall Converter, Shift Kit(GM parts), TPI Specialties Stage 3 PROM, Modified Airbox w/ K&N's, homemade cold air, Relocated MAT sensor, Gutted MAF, 160* thermostat, MSD 6A, Accel 8mm Wires, bypassed TB coolant, Flowmaster 3 chamber single 3" in/out muffler, 3" MAC mandrel intermediate, custom dual !cat Y-pipe. airfoil, ported plenum. !smog

http://www.MichaelLasiuta.home.att.net

**BOYCOTT LAPEER DRAGWAY**

 

So some of you start in 2nd gear?

I have pulled down to 1st, and floored it before, hehe that didn't work. Surprised my 305 TPI could break traction like that. When i manualy shift up from 1st, to 2nd, and from 2nd to drive, there is a latency between shifts. Anyone know what im talking about? or is my transmission just slow to react or something?



------------------
1986 IROC Camaro
305 TPI "LB9"
3.23 gears
Doesn't know enough about cars.
AIM: jesusathome

 

I know exactly what you're talking about, when i manually shift my z what happens is that between first and second there is this serious lag before it engages in second, i dont know why that is, but when i start in second i dont seem to have those problems.

------------------
1987 LG4 Camaro z28

Performance
KN airfilter, flowmaster 80 series and catco high flow cat, 180* thermostat

System
Panasonic CQ-DF200U deck, fosgate speakers (hpc1369, frc2246)

 

My best times come from just leaving it in drive and nailing it from a idle. If I torque it up I end up losing a few hundredth's

------------------
2000 NHRA Edition T/A
Pewter Metallic
A4 3.23 Gear w/GSC's
Whisper lid, MAF Ends, Ram Air Kit, Exhaust C/O
Best 60ft:1.94
1/8th:8.381@86.03
1/4:12.963@108.44

1989 IROC-Z 5.7
Auto w/3.24 gears

 

I ran a 13.8 by putting it in Drive (I got a 4speed w/OD. Hold the brake Revv up to 1600rpm (stock converter). When the light turns yellow, stomp the gas pedal. I go on yellow to get the best reaction time. Unless you have like a top fuel kind of car, you can get away with launching on the yellow.

------------------
Ron Strayhorne
91 350 V8 T.A./ MSD ignition box & wires;Flowmaster cat-back exhaust;K&N filter;Crane perf. coil; semi-polished engine;Random Technology cat sitting in the garage til I can afford the other one;Pro-built stage 3 tranny in the mail...cant wait!!!

Best 1/4 mile time: 13.8@ Speedworld Motorplex (used to be called Phoenix Raceway Park). I was so excited I forgot the mph.

 

Mine's fastest when I launch around 11-1200 RPMs, just lighly loading the convertor. It was actually slower 0-60 by a full stopwatch second if i maxed it, and seems more sluggish. With my 2.73 rear, I just barely get into 3rd gear on a 1/4 mile pass, i pulled an extra 1.5 MPH holding 2nd a little longer, till the 1000 ft mark almost. 3.73 is gonna help big time! The headers will help the top end too I'm sure. Man i need some $$!

------------------
88 Camaro (not an RS, or an IROC, justa camaro.)
305TBI/700R4/2.73
14" Open Element and Flowmaster 80 seires

Next up: headers and gears