does anyone know if their is a formula to convert 1/8 mile time to 1/4 mile time?
I ran a 9.86 @ 68mph in the 1/8th.

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'92 Camaro RS, purple w/silver racing stripes. 305, open element K&N filter, flowtech headers, Summit Fully Welded Muffler, hypertech thermomaster chip, PROFORM aluminum roller rockers w/1.6 ratio, removed A.I.R. system.

 

I just ran a 9.84 @ 72.96mph. Please convert that to 1/4 mile times if you do have a formula. Maybe if some people know their 660 ft times and what they actually got in the 1/4. That might help.

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1988 Camaro Sport Coupe: Orignally: 305 TBI 700r4
Now: 1974 350CI, 2bolt,.030 over, Badger Flat Head Pistons w/ valve relief, Melling high performance street cam, GM Cast Vortec Heads, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Intake, Edelbrock 600cfm w/ electric choke, GM HEI w/ vacuum advance, Weiand Low Profile Air Cleaner, Mallory 5 port Fuel Pressure Regulator, Mr. Gasket Throttle Cable Bracket, Corvette Shift Servo, 16" IROC Wheels, Every thing else is STOCK

 

You take your 1/8 mile time and cut it in half, then you take that half and add it to the full 1/8 mile time, that will be what about you run in the quarter mile. So....

But this is an old racer's trick, so it's not very accurate, the only way you can find out what YOUR car can do is...well, race it in the quarter mile. But if you would like an example.....

Take 9.86 divide it by 2 = 4.93.
Take 4.93, and add 9.86 to it.
You get 14.79 as a 1/4 mile estimate.

Aerofox, it also really depends on how fast your car will complete the rest of the quarter.

Your car could fall flat on it's face after the 1/8 mile mark, thus adding 1-2 more seconds on to the ET. I'm guessing your car will run 15s in real life.

But other than that there is no true formula to figure that out. But there are estimates!

See you could run a very horrible 1/8 mile, due to 60 ft, but you could still run a good ET, if you have traction and/or power.

If Aerofox ran a 9.86, I'm assuming he did it with full traction, but that TBI will not perform so well in higher powerband ranges.

But SC88 with a full out performance engine ran a 9.84, then he must of had some serious traction problems. His car sounds like it would be in the 14s (maybe very high 13s) with his mods.

Hope that helped you guys some!

-ws6formula-

[This message has been edited by ws6formula89 (edited August 14, 2001).]

 

I wish traction was the problem. No the problem is low end torque. I still have the stock gears in it and original stall. I shift into second just before the finish line. I need to change that ASAP.

 

I didn't even read your signiture good enough to notice you still had stock gears/stall.

What gears are you thinking about getting? What about the Torque Converter?

Perhaps we can make some recommendations here.

Can you post more specs about your car? Dude, you could be in the 13s easily, with a quicker drivetrain.

-ws6formula-

 

I am open for any recommendation. My plans are to find a 7.5 posi unit (because I want to use my stock housing), and use 3.73 or 3.27 (not sure if there is a 3.27) gears.
If I must put in a stall convertor I would want it to be as mild as possible. This car is a weekend/daily driver so it needs to be semi-streetable. I'm a technician in a tranny shop so pulling the tranny is not the problem. What would you recommend for the gears and stall speed.

 

I would go with a 2500 rpm stall. The stock converter with your cam is killing your power. If it's going to be streetable, then just get a set of 3.55 or 3.73 gears. I heard 3.42s were the best of both worlds, haven't felt 3.42s except in a 93 Z28 LT1 6-speed, they feel nice in a car that has some power! So maybe 3.42s are your best choice. Well just buy some 3.42 gears (or whatever) for a 2-series carrier, but if you need a posi, I would just get a 3-series posi and 3-series gears.

 

Drag Racing board!!

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89 RS

STILL Looking For:
An 87 IROC-Z28 350 TPI