home made Cold Air
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 2
From: British Columbia
Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
home made Cold Air
I got tired of talking about it and finally made the trip to Home Depot for the DIY cold air kit.
I have a speed density system so cold air is easy. You MAF guys couldn't do this as easily I think. I took my TB bellows with me and searched out some pieces.
I started with a 90 degree elbow with 3 inch inside diameter -- it was from the plumbing section I think. It is black in color and cost $2.79.
Running from the elbow to the right fender I found some 4 inch diameter accordion style tin ducting from the clothes dryer section. It cost $7.89 and would stretch to about 8 feet I think. I am using it fully compressed.
I attached the accordion thingy to my K&N cone filter which just happens to fit perfectly in my right fender opening beside the charcoal canister (which had to be relocated).
I used liberal amounts of ducting tape to stick it all together. So far it hasn't fallen apart either. While I was at it I re-torqued my IAC motor and the car is idling like it is supposed to again (problem left over from my last injector swap job).
So I took it out for a test this morning and in closed loop (on a backroad in the boonies -- wouldn't do this in town) I redlined 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears. Definitely dropped 3-4 seconds off the 1/4 time -- no just KIDDING. But it is a really noticeable improvement in mid-range.
The car had alot more power it seems from about 3200 rpm to about 4800. For some reason it dropped off pretty severely at 5000rpms which it didn't used to do. Probably a BLM thing ? In any event I am pretty happy with it given it cost under $15.00 to put together.
Have to find some way to improve the looks -- it is pretty hacky what with the ducting tape stuck everywhere not to mention the Home Depot labels.
RP.
I have a speed density system so cold air is easy. You MAF guys couldn't do this as easily I think. I took my TB bellows with me and searched out some pieces.
I started with a 90 degree elbow with 3 inch inside diameter -- it was from the plumbing section I think. It is black in color and cost $2.79.
Running from the elbow to the right fender I found some 4 inch diameter accordion style tin ducting from the clothes dryer section. It cost $7.89 and would stretch to about 8 feet I think. I am using it fully compressed.
I attached the accordion thingy to my K&N cone filter which just happens to fit perfectly in my right fender opening beside the charcoal canister (which had to be relocated).
I used liberal amounts of ducting tape to stick it all together. So far it hasn't fallen apart either. While I was at it I re-torqued my IAC motor and the car is idling like it is supposed to again (problem left over from my last injector swap job).
So I took it out for a test this morning and in closed loop (on a backroad in the boonies -- wouldn't do this in town) I redlined 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears. Definitely dropped 3-4 seconds off the 1/4 time -- no just KIDDING. But it is a really noticeable improvement in mid-range.
The car had alot more power it seems from about 3200 rpm to about 4800. For some reason it dropped off pretty severely at 5000rpms which it didn't used to do. Probably a BLM thing ? In any event I am pretty happy with it given it cost under $15.00 to put together.
Have to find some way to improve the looks -- it is pretty hacky what with the ducting tape stuck everywhere not to mention the Home Depot labels.
RP.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 2
From: British Columbia
Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
show you at GB meet
triggerGTA -- if you can wait till this Saturday I can show you in person assuming you meeting up with us at Tim Hortons on Saturday morning ?
92 zeddar -- I'll post some pics if you promise not to laugh.
RP.
92 zeddar -- I'll post some pics if you promise not to laugh.
RP.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 2
From: British Columbia
Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
what is PVC ?
Originally posted by IROCKER
I'm interested to see the pics! You didn't use PVC though did you?
I'm interested to see the pics! You didn't use PVC though did you?
I used my throttle body bellows to a 3 inch inside diameter black plastic pipe that is about 8 inches long and bends 90 degrees. I stuffed the 4 inch flex hose over it and ran the flex hose to the fender well where my K&N cone resides. My system is SD so it is pretty simple to do -- no MAF. Definitely worth while effort -- really wakes up the engine.
A guy I work with has a dig-camera I can use so hopefully can post some pics soon. Are you going to the GB meet on Saturday ?
RP.
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I won't laugh... you should see my Ram air/cold air in take on my car... sorry no pics at the moment.. But with Z-28's it easy.. I made an adapter plate at work for where the filters go and some 4x6 ducting inlets from Home depot with the Accordian type piping from the 4x6 inlet up to my adpater plates and BINGO home made ram air/cold intake.. I find it helps out a tonne on my 305/speed and it looks pretty cool aswell out front.. i will have to get pics for everyone.. I got the idea off the Tech Articles of the board here..
PVC does not make for a very good intake material as it lets off fumes that can be damaging to you engine and sensors. Your best bet is get the thing totally setup the way you like with the plastic as it's very easy to work with...then take it to an exhaust shop that can custom bend the tubing for you. That way you've got a nice metal piece and a template to make more later and possible make a bit of a profit!
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 2
From: British Columbia
Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
thx for the heads up
Ok, I figured I'd have to change out the materials. I set this thing up as a proof of concept and sofar it works ok. The 4 inch tube does rub against the A/C clutch which kicks in when the defogger is on. Have to work out a fix (get a hammer and dent the tube in ?). I figured the plastic would melt sitting in that hot spot ?
I'll build a metal setup later on.
RP.
I'll build a metal setup later on.
RP.
I made mine in a simular way, for a MAF unit. It's really pretty simple.( a little time consuming )
I used 3" ABS pipe ( the white stuff ) It's thinner then PCV with no fumes. Most hardware stores have it.
Then, wrapped it with 1/8" cork. You can buy it in a roll for about $6. Then, wrapped that with chrome furnace duct tape. The shiny surface is made to deflect heat.
I got the idea of the cork from fuel cool cans and thought it should work with the same principals.
The amount of air this thing sucks is unbelieveable and ducting never seems to get very warm.
It costs about $30 (including clamps)and wouldn't weigh more than 2lbs.
I used 3" ABS pipe ( the white stuff ) It's thinner then PCV with no fumes. Most hardware stores have it.
Then, wrapped it with 1/8" cork. You can buy it in a roll for about $6. Then, wrapped that with chrome furnace duct tape. The shiny surface is made to deflect heat.
I got the idea of the cork from fuel cool cans and thought it should work with the same principals.
The amount of air this thing sucks is unbelieveable and ducting never seems to get very warm.
It costs about $30 (including clamps)and wouldn't weigh more than 2lbs.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 2
From: British Columbia
Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
a better idea ?
I think you had a better plan. I have no provision for heat (other than soaking it up) and my dimensions aren't right either as the tube is bumping into stuff it needsto clear.
I'll was going to go to a muffler shop for a mandrell piece to make the 90 degree bend and like your idea of the covered ABS pipe.
How do you handle the downward bend at the rad lines ? This is why I used the flex hose cause I have to get a 10 degree bend to clear the rad hoses (by the rad cap) and snake down to the fender opening.
thx,
RP.
I'll was going to go to a muffler shop for a mandrell piece to make the 90 degree bend and like your idea of the covered ABS pipe.
How do you handle the downward bend at the rad lines ? This is why I used the flex hose cause I have to get a 10 degree bend to clear the rad hoses (by the rad cap) and snake down to the fender opening.
thx,
RP.
The stock air box on a MAF system has a elbow in it, so it worked perfect for me. I'm not sure what it would like to find one, but there are different angles in ABS pipe.
I think with the none MAF car, you could put together a really fuctional system.
I'm still planning on moving my canistor and extending the filter into the fenderwell.
I think with the none MAF car, you could put together a really fuctional system.
I'm still planning on moving my canistor and extending the filter into the fenderwell.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 2
From: British Columbia
Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
great pic
Originally posted by 16th owner
I'm still planning on moving my canistor and extending the filter into the fenderwell.
I'm still planning on moving my canistor and extending the filter into the fenderwell.
Are you in the KW area ? I am trying to find a shop that has "ABS" that I could use. Home Depot ? Not sure what it even looks like.
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 0
From: Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
Car: 1995 Formula/2001 GTP
Engine: 5.7 LT1/3.8 Supercharged
Originally posted by Azure
PVC = Plastic Pipe.
I think that's what went on....
PVC = Plastic Pipe.
I think that's what went on....
...just being a ball buster Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 0
From: Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
Car: 1995 Formula/2001 GTP
Engine: 5.7 LT1/3.8 Supercharged
Oh. And BTW. if you guys need bend for either PVC or ABS pipe. You can buy 90 and 45 and 22 degree fittings which the pipe jus slides into. But you should buy ABS or PVC glue. Im a plumber, so I got access to this crap every day.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 2
From: British Columbia
Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
Originally posted by FlyinLow89
Oh. And BTW. if you guys need bend for either PVC or ABS pipe. You can buy 90 and 45 and 22 degree fittings which the pipe jus slides into. But you should buy ABS or PVC glue. Im a plumber, so I got access to this crap every day.
Oh. And BTW. if you guys need bend for either PVC or ABS pipe. You can buy 90 and 45 and 22 degree fittings which the pipe jus slides into. But you should buy ABS or PVC glue. Im a plumber, so I got access to this crap every day.
Do you know if you can get ABS in 3 inch inside diameter ? Also, I am looking for it in black so I don't have to paint anything.
thx,
RP.
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 0
From: Ailsa Craig, Ontario, Canada
Car: 84 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
i have worked at home hardware for 4 years. ABS pipe is black and yes 3 inch inside diameter is available. just ask for 3 inch ABS pipe
I'm sorry guys.
Ya know what? I screwed up.
The white stuff is PVC. I just checked. The black stuff must be ABS.
I'm going to leave it on. I don't think the pipe gets hot enough to worry about fumes ( I hope )
The filter doesn't actually fit in the fenderwell opening, I checked, but the narrow end of the filter is open. It's made different then the K&N. So if I can get it to the opening, I'm hoping it'll suck cooler air.
The white stuff is PVC. I just checked. The black stuff must be ABS.
I'm going to leave it on. I don't think the pipe gets hot enough to worry about fumes ( I hope )
The filter doesn't actually fit in the fenderwell opening, I checked, but the narrow end of the filter is open. It's made different then the K&N. So if I can get it to the opening, I'm hoping it'll suck cooler air.
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