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Clunking In rear

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Old May 28, 2002 | 01:03 AM
  #1  
nblanchard's Avatar
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From: Welland, ON, Canada
Clunking In rear

Ok guys... I am probably just going to take it back to the dealer and get them to figure it out.

here is the low down.... I hit a bump, and I hear a clun in the back... I apply the brakes, clunk goes away, I apply E-Brake, and the clunk goes away.... so, I am guessing something withthe rear brakes is loose. I have rear disc... just in case you didn't know.

Anyone else have a similar problem? Anyone know what it may be? I am guessing a loose pad, but they don't squeel.

Oh well.. the dealer did brakes all around, so they can deal with it... just want to see if anyone else had the same problem
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Old May 28, 2002 | 01:41 AM
  #2  
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From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: L98 5.7 L
Transmission: 700R
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
If it was the brake pads, it would rattle, not clunk, I know I have a couple of pads in the rear brakes that are driving me crazy. One day soon I will take out the pads and redo them. Nice thing about rear disc is that you only have to remove one pin to get the pads off.I just have to get off my lazy a$$ and do it.
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Old May 28, 2002 | 01:54 AM
  #3  
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From: Welland, ON, Canada
I hope my rear pads aren't done already... I just did them... And apparently its harder than one bolt, if you do it right. You have to lubricate all guides on the calipers, or else they don't clamp right.

The tech guy told me he had to remove one of the LCA bolts to reach the caliper bolt
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Old May 28, 2002 | 02:05 AM
  #4  
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From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: L98 5.7 L
Transmission: 700R
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Are you talking about the front brakes? I have the Chilton Manual and to replace the pads on rear discs, you need to remove the upper pin, and pull back the caliper away from the rotor. I didn't have a lower control arm in the rear, just the stabilzer link for the sway bar, and it didn't even come close to being in the way. I guess I will have to hit the books again and reread it.
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Old May 28, 2002 | 02:16 AM
  #5  
nblanchard's Avatar
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From: Welland, ON, Canada
But, you should take both bolts off the caliper, so you can lubricate the sliders on each caliper. The bolt that is hard to reach is the one you didn't take out
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Old May 28, 2002 | 08:14 AM
  #6  
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From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: L98 5.7 L
Transmission: 700R
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
I stand corrected, Nate.
I read the Chilton manual and it is more detailed than the Haynes. It is as you stated. I did just remove the upper pin to access the pad, and the caliper slid back off the rotor, but it would have been more labour intensive to remove the entire caliper.
Oh well, learn something new everyday
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Old May 28, 2002 | 08:27 AM
  #7  
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From: British Columbia
Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
don't forget the e-brake

Be sure to read up on the e-brake as well. I changed the pads in my '88 expecting to spend an hour or so and 6 hours later finally put it all together. What a freaking hassle and be sure to lube everything that moves or actuates or the caliper assembly will 100% for sure seize on you.

This is why I won't convert my current ride to rw disk. Drums are pretty hokey but VERY easy to work with.

have a nice day,
RP.
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Old May 28, 2002 | 11:06 PM
  #8  
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Found it!!! Got my cousin (the mechanic at the tire shop) to check out the back brakes while i was getting new tires installed, and one of the retaining clips on the inner pad must be broken, cause the pad floats around, causing this loud rattle... I'll be taking it to the dealer tomorrow, it should be under warranty.
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Old May 29, 2002 | 07:34 AM
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From: British Columbia
Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
good news

The best fixes are easy fixes -- especially when it is on someone else's dime.

RP.
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Old May 29, 2002 | 01:12 PM
  #10  
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Yeah, it should be covered. i can't believe such a little thing makes such a loud racket
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