I looked into this a hundred times and it all comes down to a matter of opinions. Is it or is it not worth going to disk. I have an 1988 10 bolt with disk rear end sitting in my garage. Now, my drums stop me pretty well but hey....we can always improve. I know the 88's came with 10" rotors unlike the 89 and up that came with 11.5" rotors and better calipers. But seriously, will disk not be an improvement?? I've heard people say that their rears don't work while others say that by removing a piston(or something like that) in the master cylinder will make a major improvment. So what's the deal! Can we get a straight answer for this debate or is it one of those that will go on forever(probably is).

Anyways, I'm swapping rears not just because of the disk brake but because the new rear has 3.73's w/posi. If I'm convinced to keep the drums than I'll swap gears only.

However, if I go with disk.....down the road can I upgrade the calipers and rotors if I wanted to? Will an 1990 caliper bolt in place of an 1988 caliper and so forth with the rotors? Than all I would have to do is buy a rebuilt caliper for a 1990 and the rotors from Collins.

I know what Palric has to say about this. He's gone through this before.

 

First off I'd make my choice posi over open.

Next if posi wasn't an issue, are your brakes working the way they should? Do you have any complaints?

If not, a swap from drums to disc is a fairly time consuming swap if not necessary. I helped a friend do it on his 68 camaro... hell of a job that was...

The change from drums to rear discs don't really add up to much in stopping power... your front disc pad combination will have a more dramatic effect on braking more so than the rear brakes do.

 

Drums in the back are sufficient with the stock proportion valve, and if you're not going fast. If you are into solo and road track racing, then rear disc is a must with a better proportion valve that gives the rear more braking power. A stock valve barely locks up the rears, which is good for burnouts

Although, I would have to disagree with Slade on the difficulty of changing over,, IF you have a doner car, the swap is easy (if you have some mechanical ability). I believe you need the brake cables, flex hoses, proportion valve, and master cylinder, but don't quote me on that.

 

If you decide to swap it out there's other things to do while you've got it all apart and which you should probably do anyway like run a bead around the axle tubes where they go into the punkin to beef up the rear end etc. Maybe some suspension work as well - bushings etc.

So like - there's a lot of stuff you could do in one go and end up with disk brakes as well if - I'm making that clear.

 

Nate.. you need all that stuff when doing the swap

Also have some heavy duty cutting tools handy... you'll need them to cut off parts off that get in the way... you'll see what I mean if you do it. A good hacksaw will ge the job done too (we took turns cutting for about an hr lmao)

 

I thought to swap rear ends consisted of dropping the old complete rear and installing the new rear. The only changes really are the emergency brake cables, master cylinder and porportioning valve which I all have. The flexcable is the same too. A buddy of mine did the swap in his drive way.

Slade1 all your really doing is dropping one and installing the other. I can drop the rear in about 1hr alone provide none of the bolts are stripped which their not.

George - While the rear is down I'm installing my lowered springs, KYB"s and new gas tank. Like you said, there's a lot to do while the rear is down.

Maybe a fuel pump won't hurt???

 

I wouldn't do the swap just for kicks but since you already have the rear sitting in the garage and plan on doing work to the diff anyway, then I say go for it. At the same time I have to say that difference will be small though and keep in mind that parts for the rear brakes are more costly then the drums.

 

Hey '88,

I'd keep the drum rear but swap the 3.73s in. I did 3.73s on my '88 and they were a TON OF FUN I really enjoyed them around town they made the car feel alot lighter it just took off from a stand still alot easier. Thing is I used to do alot of hwy driving then so had to unload the .73s for .42s. Bummer eh ?

My current ride is not and will not be a hwy car and when I get the chance it will be 3.73s again FOR SURE. You'll have to get some help on the gear for the VSS though. That might be abit itchy ? Not sure where you do that nowadays ?

Oh yeah, aluminum drums and good pads for the rear and you won't know the diff from disks, not under 60mph. No kidding I went through all that swap hassle and $$$ and had to try hard to convince myself it was an improvement around town.

good luck,
RP.

 

If you dont do road course and track style racing stuff I wouldnt bother also another important factor is if you have decent tires. 12 inch baers wont do crap over small discs or drums if you have 225 tires with 15 inch rims. If you do the swap though and got the bones you should try wilwood adjustable proportioning valve for better tuning since your replacing it anyway. Also discs can be a pain in the ***, if you let them sit they seize, they can warp, cheap pads wear fast, ****ey burnouts.