My check engine light came on for a few minutes just over a week ago, right after I washed it (might be important). It came on right before a red light, so I came to a stop (seemed to run a little rough, not sure), killed it, restarted, and the check engine light was still there for maybe ten seconds before going out. It was fine the rest of the trip.

I just now checked for stored codes (it's been sitting ever since, and the ALDL connector isn't where it's supposed to be which made it kinda tough) and it spat out the usual code 12 along with a 42 and a 43, both ignition related.

A few weeks before I did have to replace my distributor and the new (to me) one has an aftermarket Accel module. I also did the leads and cap/rotor, and properly reset the timing to spec.

Should I be concerned or do you think maybe something got wet during the wash? What usually sets off these codes? Thanks guys.

 

Perhaps consider replacing the ESC module?!? I'm not sure how much it costs though.

 

I could swap in my stock module and see what happens... The problem doesn't appear to be repeatable though.

The check engine light has only come on twice since I've owned the car. Once last year, an hour after it came out of storage, for no more than a few minutes, and now this time, again right after it came out of storage. The first time it was a damp, drizzly day; this time was right after a wash. Coincidence? I had the stock module the first time around, and the Accel module this time.

 

It looks like its a connection from the ESC to the HEI..try spraying the connectors with WD-40..It all points to connector to me..

Daz

 

You have ignition codes and water is involved. Coincidence- not likely. You have a connection somewhere that doesn't like water. Check the whole ignition system and any electrics going to it for breaks/cracks/loose connectors or places where a wire might be grounding once water is added to the mix.

Also- don't spray water near your ignition system if you can at all help it generally.

 

I have to agree with Daz here...check on the connection going into the module and try to trace the line as well. What will the WD-40 do though?

 

WD-40 displaces water, oil/grime and loose rust particles..When I cross some streams and the water splashes to the HEI,I dry the wet ignition parts(even plugs) then spray it with WD-40.It fires right up as soon as I install it

FYI WD-40 also wash away grease so if you decide to wash a door hinge with WD-40 for example make sure you grease it after.
Daz

 

Ahhh, makes sense. Thanks.

 

43 is low circuit on knock sensor.
42 is EST module.

Get your wallet out. pay. pay. pay.
buy a civic.

 

Actually spraying the connectors is a good idea... Again, the problem isn't at all repeatable though, so at this rate I won't know if the problem (if there is one) is gone until next spring. lol Would a coat of dielectric grease (or Tamiya switch lubricant, lots of that lying around) on the connectors hurt anything?

The light didn't pop up until I was a few minutes away from the car wash, about half an hour after I sprayed the car (5 mins to wash, twenty-five to dry. F-bodies are too damned big. lol) The hood was closed the entire time, although I may have blown some water in under the cowl side of the hood.


According to my Haynes manual both 42 and 43 have several "probable causes", nothing definite, all ignition related.

What the hell are you taking about? One CES light doesn't necessarily mean it'll cost a fortune, and a civic would be a step backwards from my bicycle, not to mention my car.

 

alt or coil couldve gotten wet..low charge or short caused an a voltage spike or decrease..Dielectric is great for inside connectors

Daz

 

I changed the plugs last night ,just to complete the tune-up from a few weeks back. All eight from above, not as bad as I had expected. #5 was a PITA though, with the steering shaft right there.

Anyway, it survived another day without a CES light. Next week I'll retrace my steps and see if I can get it again (same car wash, same trip home, etc...).

Until then, I'm really not to worried about it. I wish I had remembered to put some dielectric grease in those two connectors while I was in there though, since I already had it out for the plug boots.

Thanks for the advise guys, with any luck I won't need much of it.

 

Crap! My CES light popped up again this afternoon, no water in sight. I took my brother for a drive about about an hour and a half later, a few minutes from home, the dreaded light came on. It still behaved fine, temp was fine (the gauge had been flakey lately), and we were close to home so I just kept going with the light on.

Once home I shut it down and restarted. No more light. I didn't have a chance to check for new codes but it's probably safe to assume that the same codes are there. I haven't touched the connectors to the module yet, but that'll be my next step. Any other advise?

 

Well I checked for codes today and dammit, there's a new one. 42 and 43 were still there (I hadn't cleared them) and now a code 45 has popped up. Rich exhaust, if my Haynes manual is correct. The only "probably cause" common to all three codes according to the Haynes appears to be a defective ECM. Say it ain't so...

I did clean up both connectors on the module while I was at it though, as well as the other end of the wire with the smaller connector, which plugs into the coil. The wire with the larger connector disappears into the wiring harness and doesn't look to have any obvious flaws.

Someone on a newsgroup mentioned that a faulty knock sensor could cause the first two codes. This was before #45 reared it's ugly head. Any opinions on that?

Damn intermittent problems... Dad's LSS broke down yesterday too. A beautiful day like today and I was stuck driving a minivan to go pick up my parents. Oh joy.

 

the 45 is just your f*cked up ignition check EGR soleniod (42), EGR (42), knock sensor low circuit (43), EST module (43) the ECM makes knock sensor test after constant speed detected after so many seconds does knock test if fail then your SES light.

http://www.hondacars.com/models/mode...rDetected=True