I bought a set of poly urathane motor mounts and i realized that the control arm is in the way is there any other way that u can change them without taking that out. thanks

 

control arm is in the way for changing motor mounts?

 

the lower control arms are in the way to take them so i can replace them with the poly urathane ones

 

Hey Robcan. Welcome. The control arms do not have to be removed at all.. There are access holes under the cross member, adn you go through wiht a good extension, adn a swivel socket. It is a bit of a pain to say the least sometimes. Try a search on "changing motor mounts"

 

Thanks thats what i figured just wondering if there is a way around it or not. looks like ill be buying all new polyurathne bushings and konis and springs might as well go all out

 

I'm also in the process of changing the motor mounts. I can't see any other way of getting them without dropping the A pillars, and i've double and triple checked for access holes. There are none.
It'll take some time to swap that's for sure.

 

If you're going to be doing the front LCA bushings maybe have a look at Global West. They have lca bushings made from a different material - delalum or something. I don't know if they're over-rated crap or not but as the fronts are a pain to do you might as well put the best stuff you can in there - if indeed these things are actually any better than poly bushings.

 

The del-a-lum bushings definately are the best thing we have available for the stock a-arms for a solid bushing that will not bind. They will require higher maintenance than rubber or poly bushings but if you're getting into racing they would be a nice thing to have. Then again if you hit a curb on the street or in racing there's no give in the arm anymore and all that force goes somewhere else... They definately do give more performance than a non-solid bushing tho... how much is questionable.

 

Finishing up a 2.8-5.0 engine swap. I had to take the a-pillars down, the hole is useless... and btw, just undo the lower ball joint nut and use a pickle fork and a floor jack.... dont waste your time trying to undo the strut (Like it says in the tech article for changing springs) you'll just end up breaking parts or tools.

It was easiest lying under with feet coming out nose, one arm reaching into the crossmember holding a wrench (i ended up using a jonson bar, it was alot easier on the hands) inside, other arm reaching over and rachetting.

 

About 1 1/2 hours each side, motor mounts are done. No a pillars or anything else was removed. Couple knuckle skinners but other than that it went well.

 

hey i decided to take the control arms off and replace everything i bout new kyb agx fully agustable and eibach springs

 

Should be a nice set up when it's done. Prokit or Sporlines?

You probably know this but you might need an adjustable panhard and rear LCA relo brackets once the car is lowered.

 

I put the prokit in do i have to do anything else to it or no thanks