Holy its been dead all summer on here!

I finally got my Borg Warner 4.11's in my 9 Bolt.
Also reshimmed the posi nice and tight, put in a Ratech solid pinion spacer (for a FORD 8") and the TA cover and of course new bearings. The cover is very stout!
I was told that when setting the 9 Bolts up to not play with the factory carrier shimming, even if switching carriers between housings, only the pinion shims. The final setup was spot on what came out aside from pinion shimming, even after messing with it. I used DANA35 pinion shims behind the bearing cup (this axle has the smaller main pinion bearing of the 3 that came in the 9 Bolts). Took me a while to figure out those are what I needed for shims. Try and order bearing shims by diameters and see what response you get.

This thing should hold up to some abuse.
It's also getting LCA brackets before going in the car.

Any thoughts on what it will do to my ET with drag radials (and a non slipping clutch!)??

 

Good job Neil.

Buddy drooled all over our new TA covers until we put the cars on the ground and couldn't see them anymore

They're definitely a nice piece though and will certainly take more than my car can muster.

 

Only way to find out is to hit the track

Did you change the clutch?

 

No, haven't changed the clutch yet.
The poor thing had barely been driven since the tri-city invasion!

I plan to order the clutch and Magnaflow muffler this week and do a run to Ogdensburg.

 

So you looked into replacing the muffler?

I don't think I'll want any part of that car once you have a non-slipping clutch, gears, and an exhaust that isn't choked up by a Flowmaster

 

Nice install!

How much would it cost to get gears installed into a 10 bolt? 3.23 to 3.42? I also want to get one of those TA covers, they look awesome!

 

6speedIROC, where'd you buy the gears from?

 

Demon355 - Prices I got for an install were between $3-400. I just bought the tools and did it myself. It was a PITA finding the in-lb beam torque wrench used to preload the pinion bearings. KD tools makes the only one.

Ironmahn - Got the gears when on vacation in NZ after a long search.

 

When changing rear gears, what else would you suggest I do to my 10 bolt to withstand some more power?

 

Check the tech section. There is a good article there on beefing up the 10 bolt. I'd definitely put a Ratech (or other) solid pinion spacer in, only costs about $20 helps keep the pinion bearings from moving around, use a stud girdle and cap studs (TA Performance or other) this stiffens the case and also helps locate the carrier bearings. These will add considerable strength.

I'd just put a 9 bolt in there, the 10 bolts are always a roll of the dice once you put power and traction to them. Even when all the goodies are added, they are still one of the worst axles going. I also like the FORD 8.8" conversions. A guy in TO has one, he's on this board.

 

Nice job

Good advice re: the ten bolt. Dont waste your time or money IMO. The nine bolt is WAY better for many reasons.

6Speed a word of advice on the clutch. Make certain you get the LT4 pressure plate and your woes will go away. The disk is far less important as the plate. Heck even the McCleod street twin uses a modded LT4 plate. Good luck

 

going from 3.23 to 4,11 right?

how does the car feel now and with the t56 what are your RPM at 100k

 

87roc_t56: I have the SLP clutch which is the LT4 unit with a lightended presure plate. It uses the stock friction disk which I thnk is toast. I'm putting in a McLeod composite friction disk with the same pressure plate.

trigger GTA : yes, 3.23 to 4.11 with the 3.23 it feels undergeared. Really have to ride the clutch not to bog down the motor. At 100km/hr its about 1300rpm, 2000rpm is about 155-160! There's no going back after driving a car with a sixth gear. I always reach for it in almost everything I drive now without it..kind of wierd.

 

DEMON355: Check this out..great info!

Rear End FAQ - CamaroZ28.Com Message Board

 

Can you tell me the part # for the bearing you used?
Also how much shim did you put behind the race? (thickness)

I am trying to set up a set of 4.11's and I am going nuts.
The bearing I have is 89446-89410.

It looks like I need about .070-.090 ??????? that's crazy.

Also, I measured the ring gears, 3.27's 7.75...4.11's 7.0 about???? WTF?

 

Yup, the 4.10's are smaller ID.
They're from the M75 not M78 axle.. deburr them for a little more strength.

There are a few different inner pinion bearings used in the 9bolt. I think there are 3, I have only seen 2.

All No's are Timken.

http://www.timken.com/EN-US/Knowledg...artNumber.aspx

Inner Brg - Large HM89410(cup) & 89446(cone) OD=3.000"/ID=1.375"
Inner Brg - Small HM88610(cup) & 88649(cone) OD=2.8438"/ID=1.375"

Dana35 uses small inner bearing, so you can use the DANA 35 shims...

From a guys who rebuilds these daily in NZ:
Start with 0.090" behind the bearing cup when going to the 4.10's. These axles have very good carrier interchangeability, so stick with the original carrier shims. Usually 0.005" difference in total thickness between sides from factory. Check the pattern, not the backlash. You should get 0.005-0.008backlash.

Mine setup exactly like this after messing with is for days!
Shim that carrier tight! Don't worry if it bangs and clunks, that's what it is supposed to do. You'll toast the cones if it slips.
If you ned to shim the cones, trim 0.005" off at a time to fit a 0.030" min thickness shim in there. Anything thinner will get destroyed.

Hope this helps.

 

What fluid did you end up using dude? My 9 bolt is done and awaiting lube!

 

Check this out..

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...-use-posi.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tr...dline+gear+oil (Rear End Gear Additive, Part 2 (9-bolt owners please read!))

"I was told by a few shops that rebuild '9 bolts' all the time to use Redline 75W140 with NO additive. The cones will bang and clunk a little bit, but this will be totally normal and doesn't hurt anything. If your cones are worn, use the Redline heavy shock oil, otherwise the normal stuff will do. The additve is a friction modifyer or reducer and reduces the effectiveness of the posi unit (cone type). "

 

I was going to use that stuff after reading all of those threads. I wanted to know if you went with something different and why. Thanks dude.

 

Nope, that's the good stuff!
Still use it.