Me and my brother-in-law will be installing a SuperRam on his 91'Z L98 in the near future, and were just wondering what various little parts we would need to make the install go easier. Especially the gaskets, which gaskets will we need?

Also, another question, the SuperRam that we will be installing has been ported, so we're just gonna take a stock base to the shop that ported it, and have them port match the stock base to the already ported SuperRam, does that sound like a good idea? If so, which gaskets should we get then? Thanks for any help or advice given.

 

prbrably a few wrenches, rachet and a few sockets, things like that.

No. Whats the poin of putting a SR plenum and runners on the Super restrictive Stock Base ?

Your Guy can port the stock base to his hearts content, I don't think its going to flow worht dick over stock.

At least siamese the thing...

 

I guess I should have clarified a lil better; any NON SMART-A$$ help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

Eat Me, Its right in front of you.

 

Bort is right, that stock base wont flow well at all unless you siamize the hell out of it. If you dont, the superram wont be much, if any help.

 

I do agree the stock base will limit you, but if you still want to do it here are a few tips:
Take the screws that hold the plenum to the runners & cut slots on the ends opposite the allen head so you can reverse screw them in from the top with a small flat blade screwdriver.
To get to the runner to base bolts, remove valve cover & loosen the rocker in front of the bolt to gain clearance. I used a 6mm T handle allen wrench with a ball end to tighten. Take your time here, it is easy to cross thread.
It helps to remove the wiper motor to gain some clearance on the left rear.

 

Brian, if you are buying mine, I have a fresh gasket set from LPE to go with it, 2 handy 6mm wrenches, and the plenum bolts are already slotted. The gaskets that come in the LPE superram gasket kit are all you need. You will have to trim as necessary to not impede airflow, with some scissors.

I talked with a guy who used to work at extrude hone, and he has done portwork and flow bench testing on lots of intakes. He said that the stock intake can be opened up to 1.75". You want to maximize the port cross-sectional area. Call Brian at TEA, he'll explain it to you.

One of his tech guys has ported his entire stock tpi, and is running 12's with it. Many others have run good times on a ported stock base, like the 9 second blown 305 car of Preston Smith. Granted he's forcing air into the intake with the blower, but that just goes to show that the intake can be made to flow.

The best bang for your buck is a ported stock intake. The aftermarket intakes are only worth a few more cfm.

 

I just got done with my SR install and my advice is to wear gloves and keep any small children away - chances are you be cussing a lot. My hardest part was bolting the pizza box to the runners. THAT WAS A PAIN! I had to tape the 2 bolts between each set of runners and then lay the plenum on the runners. Then I finger tightened the bolt until I could get to the slots that were cut into the ends of the bolts with a screwdriver. I have never swore so much at a car as I did when installing that POS. Good luck.

 

Okay listen.

Im sorry that I rained on your little "bolt on a SR and go " parade, but you asked if that was a Good idea.

I told you It wasnt. You can do all you damn well please to the top half of the intake, but with a stock Base on there, Its not going to make any appriciable differance.

Just bcasue You didn't want to hear that, Dosent mean you need to start Crying.

Go ahead, Bolt your SR ontop of the stock Base, and we will see who has the slow-*** Car.


I know I sure as hell didnt spend 1200$ On the Intake For Mine.

 

I don't really feel like calling anyone to verify this information, but i'm reasonably sure that if you try to open a stock base up to 1.75" you will take out the entire wall of the runners in the base. The stock base hole is just under 1.5" The walls are certainly no more than 1/8" thick, if that. And you're talking about opening up the radius 1/8", you can see what i'm getting at....

And putting a super ram on a stock base definitely qualifies as a completely back a<x>sswards maneuver if ever there was one. But i see our friend got banned anyway so who cares...

 

It's not a stock base, it's a ported stock base. Regardless of the port diameter, I'd still take a ported stocker over an aftermarket based on performance versus price.

 

Thats what i was trying to explain. There is no way i'm believing in a 1.75" runner diameter in the base, not on anybody's word. As i already explained it's physically impossible. I need to see pictures of this to believe it.

 

I tapped the hard to reach inside bolts to thread into the runners instead of the box. So you can run them in from the top, works great for me. Had it apart a few times no loose bolts I sleep good at night.


I just ported my SuperRam runnners out to 1.75" and opened the Accel base to match, there is a lot of room for porting in the roof of the base. Could have opened it more but I was getting tired of grinding on the bitch. Looking at my stock base the casting is pretty thin there is alot more meat in the Accel base I have...no way it would flow anywhere near as well as a ported Accel base. I can see the difference, no need to measure it. The stock base openings probably could be opened up to 1.75 if you took most of the material from the outside of the runners. It would be better than nothing but it would still taper down as soon as you go into the runner so not much of an improvment.

I would move to a ported aftermarket base when you could to get the most out of the SuperRam. The base is the restriction in the SuperRam even with the Accel base. IMO......