10088113 heads
10088113 heads
Ok, I found another aluminum Vette head (10088113).
Does anyone have pictures of the valve bowls after porting?
This is my first attempt at porting and I don't want to ruin them.
Does anyone have pictures of the valve bowls after porting?
This is my first attempt at porting and I don't want to ruin them.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: Brighton, MI
Car: 89 GTA, 89 Formula
Engine: L98, LB9
Transmission: Auto, 5-Speed
This is probably the best you'll find:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zeroforum?id=48
It's pretty active.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zeroforum?id=48
It's pretty active.
Trending Topics
Yea I was looking over there last night and found some good
info. Not to knock their site or anything but it seems to be full of
alot of punks who are affraid their dad is going to find out they
have been screwing with the new Z06 daddy bought for them.
Must be rough. Uh, dad can I have 8,000 more dollars? I want
to get the heads ported. Ok son, my wallets on the dresser, just
take what you need. OK, thanks dad.
info. Not to knock their site or anything but it seems to be full of
alot of punks who are affraid their dad is going to find out they
have been screwing with the new Z06 daddy bought for them.
Must be rough. Uh, dad can I have 8,000 more dollars? I want
to get the heads ported. Ok son, my wallets on the dresser, just
take what you need. OK, thanks dad.
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: SE, NY, USA
Car: 1988 Vette; 1988 IROC Z-28
Engine: 350cid; 305cid
Transmission: 700R/4; 700R/4
Axle/Gears: 2.59; 2.77
That is the correct thread, it will get you to the C4 Forum where L98 & LT1 perfromance mods abound. Sorry, but no ZO6s allowed on that link, that would be the C5 thread. Actaully most of the C5 guys that I've met and race with are tops.
Anyway, the idea with pocket porting the #113 D-port Vette heads is to blend the ledge below the seat and taper the valve guide a little. Smooth out any casting roughness but don't go nuts, the design is basically right as is. Those stock heads flow to about 350hp and pocket ported to over 400hp. Then port match to the rest of your intake and get a mulit-angle valve job. Add 2.00/1.56 SS necked, back-cut, swirl-polished valves to finish up the job. If you want to install new seats you can go up to 2.02/1.60 valves.
Sorry I don't have any pics (yet) but you may find some on that C4 Performance thread; if not ask over there. Also try the engine mods thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zeroforum?id=7
Also take a look at Dave Emanuel's book on SBCs (~$15-$17 on Amazon) and there is a good article in May & June, 2002 CHP magazine "Porting For Power".
Good luck with that fun project.
Anyway, the idea with pocket porting the #113 D-port Vette heads is to blend the ledge below the seat and taper the valve guide a little. Smooth out any casting roughness but don't go nuts, the design is basically right as is. Those stock heads flow to about 350hp and pocket ported to over 400hp. Then port match to the rest of your intake and get a mulit-angle valve job. Add 2.00/1.56 SS necked, back-cut, swirl-polished valves to finish up the job. If you want to install new seats you can go up to 2.02/1.60 valves.
Sorry I don't have any pics (yet) but you may find some on that C4 Performance thread; if not ask over there. Also try the engine mods thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zeroforum?id=7
Also take a look at Dave Emanuel's book on SBCs (~$15-$17 on Amazon) and there is a good article in May & June, 2002 CHP magazine "Porting For Power".
Good luck with that fun project.
The pocket porting info is about what I got off the site. Looking at
them that looks to be a standard gimme.
Here's what I have in mind.
Don't open the pocket, just blend the seat down into the bowl
opening the throat as needed
Teardrop the valve guide
Smooth the short side radius just enough to clean it up
Remove casting bumps and ridges
Gasket match the intake but not the exhaust
Blend the new intake opening into the head about 1" without
disturbing the narrow section of the port.
Semi polish intake and exhaust ports.
Polish combustion chamber
them that looks to be a standard gimme.
Here's what I have in mind.
Don't open the pocket, just blend the seat down into the bowl
opening the throat as needed
Teardrop the valve guide
Smooth the short side radius just enough to clean it up
Remove casting bumps and ridges
Gasket match the intake but not the exhaust
Blend the new intake opening into the head about 1" without
disturbing the narrow section of the port.
Semi polish intake and exhaust ports.
Polish combustion chamber
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: SE, NY, USA
Car: 1988 Vette; 1988 IROC Z-28
Engine: 350cid; 305cid
Transmission: 700R/4; 700R/4
Axle/Gears: 2.59; 2.77
That sounds like a plan.
You may want to get a copy of that May issue of CHP. The article has some good pics of doing the bowl. They suggest starting with a 1/2"x2" carbide burr for the coarse work and recommend staying about 1/2" below the bottom of the 3-angle valve job. Later blend with sanding tools.
They say to leave at least 1/8" around the valve guides when going into the ports.
Of course they recommend installing old valves when doing the chambers.
They used the head gasket to mark the cylinder outline on the head before beginning to unshroud the valves. I haven't seen the underside of my #113s so not sure how much work, if any, is required there.
The smoother intake & exhaust the slower carbon buildup; only the chambers need the "divit" finish to promote good swirl.
They were working with iron S/R Torquer heads but similar principles should apply to the #113 Al.
You may want to get a copy of that May issue of CHP. The article has some good pics of doing the bowl. They suggest starting with a 1/2"x2" carbide burr for the coarse work and recommend staying about 1/2" below the bottom of the 3-angle valve job. Later blend with sanding tools.
They say to leave at least 1/8" around the valve guides when going into the ports.
Of course they recommend installing old valves when doing the chambers.
They used the head gasket to mark the cylinder outline on the head before beginning to unshroud the valves. I haven't seen the underside of my #113s so not sure how much work, if any, is required there.
The smoother intake & exhaust the slower carbon buildup; only the chambers need the "divit" finish to promote good swirl.
They were working with iron S/R Torquer heads but similar principles should apply to the #113 Al.
That CHP article was ok, but there was a much better article a month or 2 before, I think in car craft, it was much more detailed, and gave before and after flow numbers for each mod. If I can find my copy I'll post all the info.
I would like to see the Car Craft article. Do they show good pics?
I think I have enough info to get myself in trouble anyway.
They are in a tank at the machine shop now, I will pick them up
tomorrow at lunch. I think if I take it easy I should be OK.
I am only looking for about 400hp so from what you guys are
saying I don't need to go hog wild anyway, just do the obvious.
I think I have enough info to get myself in trouble anyway.
They are in a tank at the machine shop now, I will pick them up
tomorrow at lunch. I think if I take it easy I should be OK.
I am only looking for about 400hp so from what you guys are
saying I don't need to go hog wild anyway, just do the obvious.
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: SE, NY, USA
Car: 1988 Vette; 1988 IROC Z-28
Engine: 350cid; 305cid
Transmission: 700R/4; 700R/4
Axle/Gears: 2.59; 2.77
You have the right attitude for success.
I think 400 may be a little ambitious if you retain the TPI intake. I have data from a build up on a '90 Vette L98 that showed about 370hp from full mods and a BM base & LTRs. A SR or MR might get you there though.
I think 400 may be a little ambitious if you retain the TPI intake. I have data from a build up on a '90 Vette L98 that showed about 370hp from full mods and a BM base & LTRs. A SR or MR might get you there though.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: NORCAL
Car: 92 Z28 Z03/89 IROC
Engine: MIA/mild 350
Transmission: MIA/T56
Axle/Gears: 3.28/3.73
Re: 10088113 heads
Here are some pics of my first attempt at porting 113's and I am far from done however I have already removed a ton of material from the critical areas. It is really easy and you will save money that can be well spent in other areas and you can only improve the flow it just depends on how involved you want to get. I chose to gasket match the intake ports using the 1206 intake gaskets and its gettin hairy so just keep an eye on the push rod side of the runner, it is THIN. i hope this helps somehow, good luck




Last edited by 92z28outlaw; Feb 23, 2009 at 10:56 PM. Reason: adding pics
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: NORCAL
Car: 92 Z28 Z03/89 IROC
Engine: MIA/mild 350
Transmission: MIA/T56
Axle/Gears: 3.28/3.73
Re: 10088113 heads
duh my bad, thanks ill pay more attention
Last edited by 92z28outlaw; Feb 23, 2009 at 10:58 PM. Reason: typo
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,087
Likes: 1
From: St. Petersburg, FL
Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: 10088113 heads
Looks good, get your
from your own thread
Im sure a lot of ppl will chime in and welcome/give ya props on your work, Start one up and ill ask ya some questions like what bits you used and stuff cuz id like to try doing the same to my heads.
from your own thread
Im sure a lot of ppl will chime in and welcome/give ya props on your work, Start one up and ill ask ya some questions like what bits you used and stuff cuz id like to try doing the same to my heads. Thread
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Hope they look better than the iron heads. Enough people are running them thgouh, maybe check on the vette boards as well?

