TPI hesitates after mods. Help!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,449
Likes: 7
From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
TPI hesitates after mods. Help!!
First of the motor is a 92 350 TPI. I done some work on the car and now it is hesitating, setting codes 22, 33, and 43 or 42(cant remember I think 43.
anyways here is what I done.
ported and polished plenum
msd coil
bbk afpr set at 50 psi
jet air foil
K&N cone air filter
remove the A/C.
remove the smog tubes and pumps, but have not remove the cats yet.
I put new gaskets in the tb, so I have removed the IAC and TPS.
I thought it might be the TPS, but it is a 92 and the TPS does not have the slots. Can it still be adjusted.
oh yeah. when I pulled the rubber hoses for the smog from behind the distributor. the wire came off the dist. Kind of broke the plastic housing where it plugs up. It still plugs up fine.
could it be the distributor, TPS, or could the cats have clogged up that fast without the smog pump.
need help. sorry for the long post.
anyways here is what I done.
ported and polished plenum
msd coil
bbk afpr set at 50 psi
jet air foil
K&N cone air filter
remove the A/C.
remove the smog tubes and pumps, but have not remove the cats yet.
I put new gaskets in the tb, so I have removed the IAC and TPS.
I thought it might be the TPS, but it is a 92 and the TPS does not have the slots. Can it still be adjusted.
oh yeah. when I pulled the rubber hoses for the smog from behind the distributor. the wire came off the dist. Kind of broke the plastic housing where it plugs up. It still plugs up fine.
could it be the distributor, TPS, or could the cats have clogged up that fast without the smog pump.
need help. sorry for the long post.
Banned
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 4
From: KY
Car: 1991 FORMULA
Engine: ZZ4 + LT4 HT CAM 430HP
Transmission: 700-R4 COMING T56
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.56's (COMING)
trouble codes
it's me adam, looked up the codes and i might have found the prob!!!
you have defanantly damaged the distributor... code 42 and 43 points to spark timing and control..... my guess it was 42 because that is the ignition module... 9 out of 10 times it probably was damage when the hose was pulled... as for code 33 that is the map sensor.. make sure the map is getting good vaccum and all connections are plugged in good.... code 22 is the tps.. it might have gotten damaged when you had it apart... so check it real good... i'd hate to see a fellow se ky mans car go down like this!! if you cant figure out what it is yell at me!!
you have defanantly damaged the distributor... code 42 and 43 points to spark timing and control..... my guess it was 42 because that is the ignition module... 9 out of 10 times it probably was damage when the hose was pulled... as for code 33 that is the map sensor.. make sure the map is getting good vaccum and all connections are plugged in good.... code 22 is the tps.. it might have gotten damaged when you had it apart... so check it real good... i'd hate to see a fellow se ky mans car go down like this!! if you cant figure out what it is yell at me!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,449
Likes: 7
From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
yeah it was code 42. I may have to pull the dist cap. The map sensor useally shows up when ever another code is set. anything wrong with the air/spark/fuel, and it sets 33. not to worried about the map.
I took the TPS off to clean the TB. It does not have the slots and im not sure If you can adjust it on a 92.
Oh yeah. after running the car a little while, I seen either steam or smoke coming from the fire wall behind the dist.
I may have fried the wires to the dist, or fied the ignition module!
Im at work now. I will have to check when I get home.
I have a fresh set of 3.73 richmonds setting in the floor board waiting to be put in. I guess I will have to get the motor running better first.
I took the TPS off to clean the TB. It does not have the slots and im not sure If you can adjust it on a 92.
Oh yeah. after running the car a little while, I seen either steam or smoke coming from the fire wall behind the dist.
I may have fried the wires to the dist, or fied the ignition module!
Im at work now. I will have to check when I get home.
I have a fresh set of 3.73 richmonds setting in the floor board waiting to be put in. I guess I will have to get the motor running better first.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 600
Likes: 0
From: orlando
Car: 98 Camaro SS
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M6
sounds like a burnt ignition module..
check it out, and make sure it's ok..
when/if you replace it, make sure to use the elctro-grease stuff (forgot the name for it) if you leave it off, it will toast the new one in minutes.
check it out, and make sure it's ok..
when/if you replace it, make sure to use the elctro-grease stuff (forgot the name for it) if you leave it off, it will toast the new one in minutes.
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 786
Likes: 1
From: Austin, Tx
Car: 92 Formula
Engine: L98
Transmission: A4
Hey,
the code for the MAP can be set by the TPS having trouble.
Same thing happend to me a while back.
I ended up replacing the TPS, and the 42 went away.
the code for the MAP can be set by the TPS having trouble.
Same thing happend to me a while back.
I ended up replacing the TPS, and the 42 went away.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,449
Likes: 7
From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by 12 Sec GTA
sounds like a burnt ignition module..
check it out, and make sure it's ok..
when/if you replace it, make sure to use the elctro-grease stuff (forgot the name for it) if you leave it off, it will toast the new one in minutes.
sounds like a burnt ignition module..
check it out, and make sure it's ok..
when/if you replace it, make sure to use the elctro-grease stuff (forgot the name for it) if you leave it off, it will toast the new one in minutes.
would Installing my new MSD coil burn the ingnition module up.
Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 334
Likes: 0
From: Louisville, KY
Car: 1987 IROC-Z28
Engine: 383 Vortec - carb
Transmission: T56 - 6speed
Well, I can't offer any help that hasn't already been mentioned. I had my car not starting once. it would crank forever but wouldn't fire up. While I was diagnosing it I learned that AUTOZONE has a way to test the ignition module. it's not 100% accurate but it usually isn't wrong when it says the module is bad but sometimes it says good when it's not. Anyway, you could have yours tested there and if it shows bad you can be pretty certain that it is. I ended up replacing the entire distributor (which comes with a new module) it cost about $125 or so at Autozone.
This isn't ment to be a shameless plug for autozone just wanted to mention that they have testing equipment.
However, I noticed that you guys are in KY so check out the F-body club I belong to if you don't already know about it.
http://www.kyfbodies.org
Hodge
This isn't ment to be a shameless plug for autozone just wanted to mention that they have testing equipment.
However, I noticed that you guys are in KY so check out the F-body club I belong to if you don't already know about it.
http://www.kyfbodies.org
Hodge
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,449
Likes: 7
From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
thanks hodge. I am planing on getting it tested.
as for kyfbodies. I have not seen many 3rd gens on there, mainly 4th gens. Maybe im not looking hard enough.
Wait. I just went on the sight and saw a few more 3rd gens. By the way nice car. I was going to sign up on the message board but some kind of funky sever error came up. Did you go out to beech bend in april. I was going to but had my car down.
as for kyfbodies. I have not seen many 3rd gens on there, mainly 4th gens. Maybe im not looking hard enough.
Wait. I just went on the sight and saw a few more 3rd gens. By the way nice car. I was going to sign up on the message board but some kind of funky sever error came up. Did you go out to beech bend in april. I was going to but had my car down.
Last edited by bluegrassz; May 21, 2002 at 10:44 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
From: Tampa,FL
Car: 89 Irocz
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 342
this may not help but I got like 3 to 4 codes at one time out of the blue, it turned out that I had a vac holes broken, the car ran like crap too. I would just go through and check you holes and make sure that their is nothing broke.
Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 255
Likes: 0
From: Beaver Dam, WI
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5
my car has been running with the SES light on constantly, and when i checked the codes, i got the following... 22, 24 and 42.
now 42 means the module.... would my car still run if the module was toast? or could it be the timing is off? im not any good at timing, so could it be that just the timing is off?
jon
now 42 means the module.... would my car still run if the module was toast? or could it be the timing is off? im not any good at timing, so could it be that just the timing is off?
jon
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 1
From: MN
Car: 2009 Pontiac G8 GXP
Engine: LS3
Transmission: 6L80E
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Not to be rude here...but why didn't you replace the module yet? It appears to be a partial source of problems...if you broke an ignition connector, don't assume it will be ok. Maybe you damaged the module internally. Simply replace the module so you know it is a known good part.
The other codes may be a result of the ignition issues. Fix the ignition first...and drop the FP back down to 47-48...the extra fuel isn't helping things right now.
Good luck,
The other codes may be a result of the ignition issues. Fix the ignition first...and drop the FP back down to 47-48...the extra fuel isn't helping things right now.
Good luck,
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,449
Likes: 7
From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by 88TPI406GTA
Not to be rude here...but why didn't you replace the module yet? It appears to be a partial source of problems...if you broke an ignition connector, don't assume it will be ok. Maybe you damaged the module internally. Simply replace the module so you know it is a known good part.
The other codes may be a result of the ignition issues. Fix the ignition first...and drop the FP back down to 47-48...the extra fuel isn't helping things right now.
Good luck,
Not to be rude here...but why didn't you replace the module yet? It appears to be a partial source of problems...if you broke an ignition connector, don't assume it will be ok. Maybe you damaged the module internally. Simply replace the module so you know it is a known good part.
The other codes may be a result of the ignition issues. Fix the ignition first...and drop the FP back down to 47-48...the extra fuel isn't helping things right now.
Good luck,
Since I posted I have replace the module, tried the old coil, and rechecked every connection. The car backfired though the intake. I shut it down tried it again. I reset the computer at least 5 different times. now the car wont even start. The brown black wire for the timing has a good connection. and I have never change the timing at all.
this thing is driving me nuts.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 1
From: MN
Car: 2009 Pontiac G8 GXP
Engine: LS3
Transmission: 6L80E
Axle/Gears: 3.27
How about the base timing of the distributor? Have you checked it with a timing light? If you accidently bumped the dizzy then that could explain your problems..
Set the #1 cylinder to TDC and verify that the rotor is for the #1 wire.
Also, how about ditching the MSD for now and just trying the stock ignition...? MSD's can be bad too...
Set the #1 cylinder to TDC and verify that the rotor is for the #1 wire.
Also, how about ditching the MSD for now and just trying the stock ignition...? MSD's can be bad too...
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,449
Likes: 7
From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
well, I tried the original coil back on the car. It didnt make a difference. As far as using a timing light, the car wont even start now.
I will try bring the #1 up on tdc and check the rotor button. The dist hold down it tight, and has never been turned, that I can tell.
I tried to move the dist by had, to see if it was tight. It wouldnt budge.
I even tried unpluging the brown/black wire, to see if the computer was messing with the timing. It still would not start.
I will try bring the #1 up on tdc and check the rotor button. The dist hold down it tight, and has never been turned, that I can tell.
I tried to move the dist by had, to see if it was tight. It wouldnt budge.
I even tried unpluging the brown/black wire, to see if the computer was messing with the timing. It still would not start.
Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: way over there
Car: 87 IROC
Engine: LB9 for the moment
Transmission: T5
try checking the pickup coil...
also recheck the tps... make sure you followed all the step correctly (setting minimum air and all that)...
zroc
also recheck the tps... make sure you followed all the step correctly (setting minimum air and all that)...
zroc
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,449
Likes: 7
From: LONDON, KY
Car: Camaro
Engine: Carbed L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Ok guys, I have been on vacation, and did not get to work on my car like I wanted,
I did manage to get the dist out, I ended up having to make a tool to get the bolt lose, My offset dist wrench was junk.
Everything looks good on the dist. The accel module is good, the msd coil is good. When I bought it up on tdc, the rotor was between #1, and #8 cly. Im going to put the dist back and try to retime it. Im going to recheck, and make sure I dont have a short in the main plug.
I will keep you guys posted.
Thanks for all the info.
I did manage to get the dist out, I ended up having to make a tool to get the bolt lose, My offset dist wrench was junk.
Everything looks good on the dist. The accel module is good, the msd coil is good. When I bought it up on tdc, the rotor was between #1, and #8 cly. Im going to put the dist back and try to retime it. Im going to recheck, and make sure I dont have a short in the main plug.
I will keep you guys posted.
Thanks for all the info.
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