I did do a search but never really found a straight answer. Thanks for any responses. (Btw I will be useing 1.6 rr's by harland sharp)

 

From what I understand, the only machinging that may need to be done will be for the springs. You may have to go to a spring that can handle the higher lift and it may not fit properly in the stock head. I could be wrong on this though.

 

On the stock L98 heads the valve guides will have to be cut down, If you get the heads cut for a bigger spring it shoud cut down the valve guide at the same time.

nick

 

Then would also be a good time to machine for positive locking seals

 

Is it possible that i could do the machine work myself? providing i had something like a drill press?

 

Sure can....if your drill press is accurate to +/- 0.001".

 

I dont even know what you plan on machining???

You can cut down the valve guides with a mill..... if you have one
But anything else I wouldn't toy with

For positive locking seals you've got to have the outer valve guide completely centered the the valve guide itself or your seal is pulling to one direction (ovalizing) and you'd leak 10x more than using an umbrela seal.

And for cutting spring pockets if thats another thing you want to do.... how would you do that yourself? a chisel?

Machine work is usually done at a machine shop for a reason.

 

i went through this a few months ago. first, you'll need to have screwed in rocker studs put in so they don't pull out. I have aluminum l98 heads that came w/screwed in studs stock.

have your guides milled, i had mine cut .050 but you'll want more like .080 because you're using 1.6 rockers (i have 1.5). cost me $2 per guide.

get new springs, the ones i'm using are 1.25" OD and fit without machining. i have 350# of pressure at full lift. with 1.6 rockers and/or if you have flat tappet lifters these would be too much for you, you shouldn't exceed 300# with tappet at full lift and 350# with roller.

some springs (mine are the competitors 2300):
http://www.competitionproducts.com/page24.html

my engine came stock with posi-lock seals on the intake and umbrellas on the exhaust, if yours didn't, i'd convert.

you might also need shorter/longer pushrods to keep your valvetrain geometry in tact but i don't know much about this so i can't elaborate.

 

285# is a reasonable full lift weight on flat tappet hydraulic lifters

 

Thanks guys, that's what i needed to know.

 

Btw in case you wanted to know if it helps, i will be useing the Comp Cams 986-16 springs (i believe its cca 986-16 from summit) those are the ones comp cams suggested to me. Also any ballpark figures of how much this -could- cost me? Thanks.