This has been going on for a while and I can't figure it out and now it's starting to really bother me. My car starts on the first try every time in the morning. And if I shut the car off after driving around and go into the store quickly and come out, it starts on the first try as well no problem. But if the car sits for a little while, and I go to start it up again, the engine still being warm, then on the first try it will just crank and crank. If I turn the key back and then try it again, it will usually work on the second try. Sometimes it takes a third shot.

The starter is new, the injectors have been checked, coil and wires are new and plugs have about 12,000KMs on them. The car runs awesome all other times, it's just the warm starts.

Any ideas?!?

 

What did you check on the injectors? Just the ohm readings?
Leaking injectors are the biggest thing to cause the problem you're describing. An ohm test won't show that.
I had the same thing happen to mine. I had two bad ohm readings and 3 leaking injectors.

 

Fair question...but no, they were sent to Cruzin for cleaning, flow testing and any signs of leakage. Rich said there was no leakage even above 70PSI and they were fairly clean to begin with. They all tested within 2%. So I'm pretty sure I can rule out the injectors. I had also previous to that check the ohms and they all came out fairly even.

Also replaced over the winter when I had the injectors out was the CTS, cold start injector switch, MAT, and IAC.

 

I agree with Viprklr.I had the exact same problem you had with the hard starting. I ended up changing my EGR , at the time it did make a difference. Then the problem persisted. After doing the IAC,MAT,CTS,and the EGR soleniod, I tore the top of the engine apart and found loose bolts on the lower runners and intake manifold. Then I checked my injecters and low and behold 7 out of 8 were leaking. Since you have eliminated the injecters,I'd lean towards the EGR.

 

I've had this "problem" on my car since '85 when it was new. It seems to me there is a temp. where it just doesn't want to start on the first try. If I cycle the key off then on it fires right up. This occurs after the car has been run and sits for maybe half an hour, if I just come right back to it , it starts right up, if I let it sit for maybe an hour after shut down, it starts right up. I attribute it to just one of the little quirks of TPI.

 

gmanrs70: I'm thinking that starting wouldn't be EGR related. Now if it was running like crap or I was getting a code then I could totally understand. But I'm not sure.

Morley: Since new? Wow! It didn't do it when I first bought the car over 4 years ago...this is something that's only creeped up the last couple years. But yes, if I do cycle the key off and on again, it will start no problem. Very strange.

 

sounds like ck valve bad, letting fuel pressure drain back to tank,.

 

Good point 86. IROCKER have you done a fuel pressure test on your rail? If you have does the pressure bleed off quickly or does it hold for a while?
The EGR is related to starting because it stands for exhaust gas regulator. The EGR puts excess exhaust gasses into the cylinders on start up and while the car is running to burn them up.
How many miles are on the new injecters??

 

86: This is exactly what I was thinking, but I was just waiting for someone else to come up with this diagnosis. Is there a way to replace the check valve? Or is it in the tank with the pump?

gmanrs: The funny thing is when my FP was checked with a portable fuel pressure gauge for the leak down, it came within spec, yet the problem still existed. Now I've got the Accel gauge mounted on the rail permanently and as soon as the car shuts off the gauge goes to zero. I am yet to hook back up the other pressure tester to try it out...do I need to put the schrader valve back in to use the tester? I'm thinking it shouldn't matter.

 

The checkvalve is inside the pump.

 

Is your accel guage in the place where the shrader valve was?

 

Morley: Doh! That's not what I wanted to hear...but thanks.

gmanrs: Yes, on the fuel rail back by the coil.

 

It would depend on if the guage you are using needs the shrader to hook up to the rails.If it does then you would have to put it back in.