I have read bits and pieces of things about people taking off some smog equipment from their Tuned Ports for some added power. Does anyone have any idea what parts are commonly deleted, what kind of power you can expect to gain, and how will this upgrade affect the emissions. I am guessing that removing too much will make it impossible to pass emissions standards here in Wisconsin, but I just want to learn about something new, and see if i can't squeeze out a few extra horses. Thank you.

 

A lot of people delete stuff assuming it will generally gain them HP..

Most people rip out the air pump, the tubes, and plug the holes, then ripout the cat. Car gets a little louder, maybe a hp or two more (maybe?).

The _REAL_ benefit, is the engine bay gets cleaner..

A set of smog-legal headers, an electric air pump, and a high flow cat will beat most cars with emmisions deleted, with everything else being equal.

Infact, in years of testing, pro's like Smokey yurnick have found that by pumping air into the hot headers/exhaust you actually can pick up HP..

Eventually, I'll be going with the AIR pump and high flow cat on my rig, as soon as I'm happy with my engine combo.

-- Joe

 

THat Formula of yours sounds like a screamer! Thanks for the info. I have a hi-flow cat, and am putting on Edelbrock Ceramic Coated Headers right no, I was just wondering if I could pick up any more power by not putting things back on. I think I'll just put it all back on. My next question is also about deleting things. I almost never use my air conditioning, cause of the t-tops. What do you know about taking off the a/c. I have heard that it isn't a good idea, but no one can tell me why. Any ideas?

 

Hi,

Not a good idea?? People perhaps say that because it will lower the value of your car. I just finished my swap on the A/C.

What you do is goto a junkyard and find a non-ac f-body and remove the heater box. Top bolts are 10MM, and the bottom two you get from inside the car, under the carpet. Really easy, takes like 10 minutes dude.

THen you grab the pully (a/c delete pully) to replace your compressor with.

Rip out your whole heater setup inside the engine bay, which is mounted just like the non-ac one you ripped out of the junkyard, except there is 1 additional bottom bolt.

The wires will have different connectors, but the colors are the same, so splicing them will not be hard.

You'll also wanna unbolt your radiator support, pull it forward slightly, and rip out the a/c heat exchanger (radiator). Cut all the lines, disconnect all the wires to the sensors.

If you run into trouble, post here and I'll respond.

-- Joe

 

All of your help is great! I really appreciated it. I am obviously no expert on these cars, but i sure love it, and want to learn as much as I can so thank you very much. Do you have any info on swapping in a disk rear end, to replace my drum rear? My drum brakes need work, and I just found out (through leaving a "one-wheel wonder" burnout in my driveway) that my differential is shot. It is posi, but only one tire left rubber. I know how to do the axle, and put replace the disks, calipers, etc, but I do not know exactly how to make the rear disks work. I'm sure I could get an adjustable prop valve and go from there, but I was wondering what you think. Thanks again or your time and all the help!!!

 

Hi,

I really don't like my borg warner disc rear. Once the posi's go, they cost a fortune, the gears cost a fortune, etc.

In design, they are much like a ford 9", and prolly just as strong. BUt when you need parts, forget it..

Your 10 bolt posi is a cheap rear. If your gears are good (3.73, or whatever your happy with) a locker shouldn't cost much.. You can even run a spool.

 

Hey just wondering if you are going to the Trans Am Nationals car show this August. I'll be there, as long as I get all this fixed by then!!! The head gasket and headers are coming along pretty well, and once that is done I will throw in the new rear-end. Do you think I will need a new master cylinder when i put the disk rear in? I found a tech article that tells me how to put in an adjustable prop valve, but I don't really want to buy a new master cyl. Thanks for the help. Maybe I'll see you and the Formula in Ohio.

 

I'd think so. I'm sure the pressures are completly different for drum vs disc..

The adjustable valve would be good for racing.. you could turn the rear off for a burnout, turn it back on when you line up at the gate.

-- Joe

 

In my opinion I don't find that removing the a/c is that benificial yeh yah drop some weight but is the load on the engine really that much when the compresor is off. I mean take the belt off and spin the pully it spins just as easy as a dummy pully that you will be putting in it's place. and what about the day you get caught in the rain and it's hot out it sucks cause the windows fog up and it get's nasty hot and humid inside. just my opinion. I'm sure every little bit counts but I like my comfert.

 

I use the A/C in my truck, which is my daily driver.

My fast car, has T-tops. Thats all I need. If I ever got caught in the rain, I would die.

If you wanna keep your A/C thats fine. For a stocker, why wouldn't ya..

-- Joe

 

anesthes,
I saw you mention electric air pumps. any idea where they are sold? I was considering a retrofit from a 300ZX, but if they are already available for the F-body I would rather have one of those.
Do you burn your own PROMs? I am looking for someone in New England area to show me how. I have read everything there is about it, but really need to see it done to fully understand it.

Also someone mentioned the A/C not using much H/P to run. You can spin the pulley on the compressor easily while a/c is not running because it is not engaged. There is an electric clutch that engages when a/c is turned on. Once clutch is engaged then compresser requires some power to turn over. Not sure how much you lose, but I wouldn't have a/c on while making a pass down the strip. I just got rid of an Altima, you had to shut a/c off to pass someone on the highway.

 

I am not to this point yet, but I am wondering how you guys adjust the vlaves on your Tuned Port. I thought I could just do it by tightening down the rocker bolts until there is no play in the pushrods, but I have heard of another way also. This other way involves putting the thing completely back together and then taking off the valve covers and adjusting the valves with the engine running. Will the first method I mentioned work, because you all known how tough it will be to get the vlave covers off once everything is back together. Any ideas? Thank you!

 

88GTAinRI, Do you know the part number of the MSD Blaster Coil for our cars? I am ordring it from Summitt this weekend, and want to make sure they send me the right one. Thanks.

 

Ardels91TA,
The part number I ordered is MSD-8226 which is a dual connector coil that replaces stock coil. If you have only one connector going to your coil you need Summit number MSD-8228. If you are using an MSD ignition I recommend you buy the subharness they have available, MSD-8876 for dual coil, not sure on number for single.

As far as adjusting the valve/rockers there are a couple of different methods. Working from one cylinder to the next, set the piston at TDC of valves you want to adjust so both valves are closed and lifters are off cam lobes. Tighten the nut on rocker arm until you can not spin the push rod between your thumb and finger. Tighten 1/2 turn, or 180 degrees. repeat for each cylinder.

The other method is prefered, and is the way I have always made adjustments. If you did nothing in terms of cam or rocker arm replacement, etc., and just want to adjust or quiet lifters skip first part. After modification, ie cam, lifters,rockers, etc. tighten nut, as advised above with the valves completely closed and lifters off cam lobes, until you can not spin the push rod easily and there is no up and down play in the push rod. Remove the valve cover (one side at a time). Install oil deflecting clips on rocker arms to keep the mess to minimum, (I usually put a piece of cardboard or fender cover over headers also). Start engine and allow it to idle and warm up. Tighten each rocker nut until it just stops clicking on the side you are working on. Starting from your left working to your right loosen first rocker nut until it just starts to click/tap. Tighten the nut until click/tap stops. Tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn more (here is where the opinions lie). Some people like a 1/2 some like a 1/4 few like more than 1/2. I like 1/2. Repeat on all rockers, both sides.

 

The second method to adjusting valves is what a lot of us learned.. Its how we all do the race cars..

As far as an air pump, Not sure.. I was gonna investigate that but I've got like 10 projects going on.. I'm curious if a 4th gen pump would work, they're electric.

I'm not doing proms at this point. I will be eventually..


My problem with the A/C is that its in the way, takes up too much space.. On a luxury car, who cares. On a hot rod, I'd like to be able to get at things quickly at the track / at shows.

That and the heat exchanger infront of the radiator can pose a cooling problem on a high horsepower motor.


-- Joe

 

I had a 300ZX on the lift today. They have electric pumps for sure, one on each side hidden in the inner fenders. I've never replaced one, but if i remeber right they are small. I havn't had a chance to look at wiring diagrahm to see how they operate.

Hank O.