I have a 86 iroc, 305 tpi and it had been running a little rough although it still starts up and runs ok at idle. When I drive it and step on it, it just doesn't really move and runs rough but still sounds like it is hitting on all 8. I am new to the tpi so I don't really know what is wrong. I had a buick regal ttype and my MAF went bad but I don't know if they have the same affect on camaros. Also my temp. gauge is bouncing around. Maybe someone has had this problem before and can help. Thanks, Mike.

 

if your car has a crappy idle and bad all-round performance, then your MAF could be a cause, but if your temp gauge is bouncing it sounds as if it could be your coolant temp sensor. there should be two, one for the gauge and one for the computer. if the one for the ECM went South, then i could (in theory) be telling the ECM that its, for example, 200 degrees outside and causing the computer to richen or lean the mix too much or too little. if its poppin codes then you need to check them. the MAF would pop a code. you may just need a good tune up. just about ANY problem that would make your car run worse will pop a code and cause the SES light to shine proudly! well, hope i helped a little, GOOD LUCK!!!

 

take a screw driver and tap on the MAF. Do not SLAM IT! jsut tap it with a little force and if the idle changes, chances are that the MAF is going south.

 

Try unplagging the MAF and go for a ride and see it the car runs better. If it does then you can suspect that the MAF is going bad.

 

My MAF just went bad on my '89 IROC. Symptoms: 1) Car starts then dies right away, it just does not idle without me having to pump the gas pedal. (I had already replaced distributor, IAC, set TPS, and check the fuel pressure, I also have new fuel injectors). 2) When driving, I have to "floor it" and you can hear the engine dying, and then the engine catches and the car jumps forward with LOTS of POWER, then 1-2 seconds later the car lurches backwards as the engine sputters. You also hear "popping sounds" from the exhaust. It took awhile to diagnose, I should have done the "screwdriver tap" like the earlier post says. Anyway, the new stuff I put in to diagnose the problem was not a waste of money as the car is 25 years and needed a bunch of stuff anyway. Runs awesome now with the new MAF.

 

alexiroc,

Where did you buy your new MAF from?

 

a bad MAF ,WILL give you a code 33 or 34. now. I see we have the same car, so let me help you. bad MAF relays will make you think you have a bad MAF. I have the GM part #s for them if you like. and the power and burn off relays are NOT the same.a word of advice,,, don't even THINK about a el cheapo MAF . if needed, get a NEW one. they are pricy ,but in the end so very worth every penny. do you have any codes showing? if so , which ones? give us a lil bit more info and we can help you get it right.

 

Don't forget vacuum leaks will also cause 33 codes. You may want to check all lines and spray carb cleaner around the intake, runners, and plenum and throttle body.

 

When mine went bad the motor would bog down every time I gave it gas and would only rev up if I feathered the gas, eventually I got the code for it and spent a good chunk of money on it, make sure you know it's the problem before spending the money because it's expensive. Call up a buddy or go to a junkyard and try another maf on your car, if the problem goes away then you know it's the maf