Okay folks.. here's the update. I replaced the O2 sensor, and it runs at this point, much better! I am posting the new BLM log, and spark log. If you compare the two, it is EXTREMELY better! there are still a couple 150+ BLM's, but the car did not diesel on me once with the car in ALDL mode, where last time, it dieseled ALOT! I am also posting the other "flags" that aren't saved in the log.

Flag Data:
DRP Occured
Closed Loop Flag - Constant this time - not back and forth
Rich Flag - very intermittent
EECC Slow O2 Rich/Lean Flag - very intermittent
BLM Enable Flag
TCC Locked - was very intermittent last time - O/D only
EGR Diag Switch Closed

Error Data:
22 TPS Low - NEVER occured before - will adjust
33 MAF High - Haven't reset the ECM yet
34 MAF Low - Haven't reset the ECM yet

INT & O2 screens are now both completely blank!

The car still has a bit of a lope at idle, but nothing compared to what it was! I'm going to reset the ECM and see what happens! Thanks for all the help so far, guys!

I would still like opinions on what, if anything, you guys still see is going on! It is much appreciated!

:hail:

Quick Rundown : 87 IROC, 305 TPI, 700-R4, 3.23's, bone stock!

 

MUCH better than the last one!

These two files can be compared with the post below...

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=138427

I also have the main log file if anyone if interested, I will post that as well!

 

Sounds too wierd to be an individual sensor...I would try a different ECM...just make sure you get one that has a V8 memcal or swap your memcal/prom into the other ECM...

I think that could definitely be a possibility...

Good Luck.

 

See.. I was thinking that the ECM may also be bad, as well! The ECM I have in the car now, has the "ACXT1099" chip, which is what I am told is the correct chip for that car. The other number on the chip is a 160....." number, which *no one* seems to be able to figure out!

I took the vehicle for a spin yesterday after replacing the O2 sensor, and checking the timing, which was off by a couple 3 degrees, and the idle seems to be better, but not the best compared to other IROC's I know, and there is still a "dead spot" when I hit between like 2k & 2800 where the car hesitates like there is not enough gas, and that's where the BLM's come into saying like 145,150, etc., but WinALDL pops the Rich Flag & EECC Slow O2 Rich/Lean flag when it starts running weird. So the ECM states it's running rich & lean at the same time! That's kind of interesting!

 

Make sure all the grounds are intact and have good contact. I ran into this problem tuning a stealth ram intake where i had really high, pinned at 160 blms yet it was running way too rich. I went to a heated o2 sensor ($50), scoured the exhaust connections with a stethoscope to check for leaks, ripped out the exhaust and replaced the gaskets with a better quality felpro gasket and dead-soft aluminum collector gaskets ($20-30), tried a new ecm i had laying around, checked all the sensor wiring for frays, burns etc, replaced the o2 again in case i had a defective one (another $50, ouch, lost the reciept) and it turned out to be the lack of a ground strap from the block to the body.

The o2 sensor was grounded to the engine block, and the block was grounded to the batter via the alternator wire, and then the signal had to go through the body ground wire from the battery, to where the ecm was grounded to the body near the firewall. All of this caused a very small (200-250mV) voltage drop. When the sensor is working with voltages in the range of 450mV, this is A LOT of difference. The voltage drop was causing the o2 sensor to read 250 mV lean no matter what the ecm did to correct it. All this cost me to repair was a 10 cent piece of wire to ground the block to the body.

 

I will try this tomorrow! I have tons of braided flat ground wire around, so I will re-ground it no matter if it's already done, or not. I know a lot of times they ground them damn things in the rear, about the tranny where you can't even see if it is grounded or not! I appreciate the information!

:hail:

 

Now, I was reading through some books I have, and if anyone is familiar with bad EGR Valve problems, that is EXACTLY what I am having! It says a bad EGR can cause hesitation, bad idle, which after replacing my O2 sensor, isn't so bad, sputtering, etc. Now, I tested the Solenoid & the EGR valve yesterday. I let the car warm up, and drove it around for a bit. Then I came back, and removed the Vacuum line from the EGR Solenoid to the valve, and tested with a Vacuum gauge! At idle, nothing. At 2,000 RPM, I have approx. 11-16 inches of Vacuum, and when I goto WOT from idle, or half throttle, the Vacuum goes upto like 20 or 25, then drops down to about 11-16 range again, or so. The book that I have says that at 2,000 RPM, there should be at least 7 inches of vacuum from the solenoid, so that seems okay.

Then I looked at the EGR valve itself! when the solenoid sends vacuum, the diaphram opens / goes up, but, it doesn't do it solid. It fluctuates pretty good. I guess this would be normal, though, because of the vacuum pressure!? Or is it supposed to stay pretty solid, and not jump up and down a whole hell of a lot!?

Is there a possibility that the EGR valve could be working while I am looking at it sitting still, but under a driving load, it is not working!? The EGR valve is still the stock valve, so I will be replacing it soon. I tried yesterday, and them damn bolts are so f****ing small and on there so good, that I am going to wait until I get to L.A., and get to my buddies shop for all the good tools! Just thought I would ask about the EGR, if it could work fine while sitting still, but not work properly when under pressure!?