So I'm trying to diagnose an idle problem.

Right now I've searched the boards and saw that the MAF burnoff circuit should close and burn the wire in the MAF for 1-2 seconds after the engine shuts off but I have yet to see it do it by itself. I've jumpered the connections on the relay and the wire glows but I've run the engine for more than 2 minutes and when I shut it off, there isn't a glow (and yes, I plugged the relay back in).

Also, with my scan tool, I'm showing 15 (I think it's ft3?) with the engine shut off. Is this normal? at idle it shows about 12 to 15 and it increases as engine speed increases. My problem is that the MAF should show 0 when the engine is shut off no? I know it's a heated wire MAF so it's possible that it can cool off while just sitting there, with the little air flow that goes past it while it's just sitting there. I know the MAF is getting power or it wouldn't give me a reading on the scanner and I know that the wiring to the MAF is good, I'm guessing the ECM isn't grounding out the relay for it to heat the wire, yeah?

I get an intermittent code 43 when I'm at WOT for more than oh.. 5 seconds and I lose all power.

Anyhow, I've replaced the knock sensor and replaced the ESC module with one that I thought was good. What else could set a code 43? I guess I should try buying a new ESC and see if that'll do the trick.. Thanks in advance.

 

The MAF doesnt read 0 with the engine off and key on. The number varies, but its not 0. I think your MAF and related stuff is fine, dont start a fire where there isnt one.

The 43 could be all of your problem. I would check the wiring near the distributor and coil, make sure there is nothing shorting out.

 

With the key on my maf shows 6 gps, which is normal. What is your idle problem? Have you reset the IAC and TPS after cleaning the IAC?

Have you changed anything in the chip?

 

The chip is still the stock chip.. That might be where some of my idle problem lies but it was running fine prior to my alternator dying.. It's only acted up like this since then..

Code 43.. I'm looking for an ESC module.. Autozone, O'reilly's and Pep Boys doesn't have one so I'm hoping that NAPA will have one so I won't need to get one from the dealer.

The timing, the IAC and the TPS has been adjusted so many times, I just keep the timing light wires connected and just connect the gun when I need it.

All the wires near the distributor are free and not shorting against anything..

My problem stems from the fact that I it will die in gear. I fixed the park/neutral switch today so that's one of the problems down but it's still having issues with staying running and dying once I put it in gear. When it's cold, I can shift into gear and it'll behave but once it's hot, it'll die faster than a fat kid can eat a twinkie.

I'm still concerned that the wire doesn't glow after the car's been running like it should..

Good to hear from you again BJ.

Thanks in advance,
-Bruce

 

What convertor do you have, stock? Was it running fine before it got cold? Why don't you just turn up the idle speed at the throttle body and re-adjust the TPS?

 

the converter is a little higher than stock.

The problem I'm getting the harsh transition between out of gear and in gear.. If I lower the idle speed to keep it from dropping into gear, then it dies cause it's not spinning fast enough.. If I adjust the idle higher to compensate, then the tranny drops into gear and my car lurches forward and then dies.. I'm trying to find that happy medium but not having much luck..

 

Bruce, with a code 43 and the symptoms you describe, I would guess you have a timing problem.

What does your scanner show for spark advance at idle ? Does this agree with what the Timing light shows ?

Dying once in gear is indicative of improperly set timing, Can't handle the load.

 

Bort,
Thanks so much, I think I finally got it.. I went ahead and set my timing to 12* by the timing gun and it's idling fine.. I'm thinking either my balancer is off or my car just likes it there.. Sadly, my scanner doesn't have spark advance on it. I'm not sure why.. I guess i need to upgrade my software.. Thanks again.

-Bruce

 

I think the base timing was off far enough that the distributor coudln't advance the timing enough to hear a knock and therefore threw a code 43.. Anyone want to agree with my conclusion?

 

I think that your Balancer outer ring has slipped and you are on exactly the right track.

KISS, baby.

I wouldnt trust a stock Balancer any farther than I could throw it, personally.