My car (89 Formula 350 xcuse redundency) used to start every time I got into it (although I had to buy a new battery for this trend). I don't drive it very often as the rearend is VERY noisy, and the hatch doesnt close well, and the headlights... but I digress. About 2 months ago (at a minimum), it would not start for me at all. So it sat until I had my knowledgeable bro over to help me diagnose. Charged the battery, and it started the first try. I drove it around the block, and let it idle for a while to get all the fluids moving, then shut it off and tried to restart - no luck. Tried a few times more, checked for spark, and power to injectors (unable to check fuel pressure yet) without success. We pushed it back into the garage, and the next day I replaced the fuel filter. With the new filter, it started mybe twice in one sitting, but no more. Since this time, I start it once a week, and drive it for about 1/2 to one hour and it idles fine, and seems to have the appropriate level of power. Never starts a second time. I plan on getting a fuel pressure guage to see what it is reading, and most likely figure it is the fuel pump (although, the gas that drained out of the old filter looked kind of rusty - either way the tank has to come out - unless I can figure a way to pull the pump without dropping said tank (JK)).

The meat of the question, where is the best place to get a new fuel pump, and is there benefit to buying a higher flow than stock. I bought the car about a year ago, it has an AFPR, air foil, H&R springs, slotted rotors, kenny brown STB, rebuilt 700r4, custom chip from fuel injection specialties in SA Texas, and a clean rust free body. The guy I bought it from remarked about having the fuel pump replaced by the company that burned the chip after getting stranded somewhere. Do my problems raising any obvious flags for anyone?

Thanks for your patience if you read all of this.

 

Sorry I can't be of more service to you...

The only real thing I can think of at this current moment, keep in mind I am a little out of it (drunk), but the computer might be registering that the engine has overheated or the battery cables might be corroded (SP). I had a 1992 Camaro that used to play games like that. I realize those are some obvious things to check, but hey, I ain't exactly all here.

 

Leaking,worn injectors?

 

My '89 350 does the same thing. When its been sitting a while, it starts right up, but after i warm it up, it sometimes refuses to start unless i give it a shot of starter fluid. I hear the pump prime.. i have spark, and i know i have fuel cause you can smell it on the plugs and coming out the tail pipe. I recomend you test your fuel pressure, and when you do it, let your pump prime... then block off the fuel rail hoses. If the pressure guage starts to drop from 42, the fuel is probably leaking out the injectors, and flooding the engine. From what i figure... the starter fluid cleans the plugs off a bit and allows it to fire up, and the reason it likes to cold start is cause you've given the plugs time to dry off (like when you flood the carb on a normal car). Thats the best theory i've come to yet. I plan on changing my injectors, but i still haven't figured out which ones i want to get yet. I've been wondering about either: A. Get new Accel injectors or B. Get Mustang SVO Injectors. The other thing i've been worrying about is what lbs-age to get. I really dont' feel like trying to find someone to burn me a chip right now, and that actually seems to be the current fix for getting the injectors to work the best with the engine.


Anyhow, i digress. Try the pressure test. At best you'll figure out your problem, at worst you get a new tool for your tool box and can move on to the next thing to check.

Joker

 

i too am having the same problem with my car, only now, the car will not start at all! i have the fuel press. test gauge and have done the test to see if the injectors are leaking, & they are not. the pressure should drop a little bit at a time, not just all at once. im changing the distributor today even though i have spark. i think the ignition module sends a signal to the ecm that tells the injectors to fire and i think mine is not doing that. i have tried changing just the ignition module with no success so im going to change the distributor in hopes of that being the main cause of the prob. not sure if that will work, but ill keep you posted.

 

well, the distributor was not the prob. buying a noid light to do some futher testing on the car. when i find the prob, and i will, ill let you know what it was so you can use it to help with your problem.

 

I had the same prob as well with my ole' L98........I too thought it was leaky injectors, but ever since the engine swap (GM 350 HO:hail: ) it will start whenever I want it too....Don't know if this helps, but I think injectors were not my problem with the L98 (since I am using same injectors)

I did however get a new Distributor for the new engine...might be the problem???

Later

 

I had the same prob on my L03 last year. Turned out to be a fried ignition module. I replaced the whole distributor and it solved the problem. HTH

 

is it turning over? it sounds to me that your starter is bad...there is a clutch like mechanism that pushes the gear onto the flywheel and that clutch can go bad usually after a car is warm. if you hear it turning over get a visual.

 

eh.. i just kinda assumed that you were getting rotation and spark. if no rotation you starter might be getting be dieing. no spark, well just go down the list of ignition parts till you find the one that don't work. the ignition moduel is one place to check.. it and the starter don't take well to high amounts of heat. if your getting spark and rotation.. its probably fuel.

Laters,

Joker

 

Yea it turns over - & over &over.... Still looking for confirmation that the plastic tanks interchange from ls1's, that would end all future concern regarding rust in the tank.

 

I finally obtained a guage, and alotted time to check fuel pressure. I have confirmed that lack of fuel pressure is not a problem. It holds steady at 44lbs at idle and constant throttle but spikes to 50lbs off idle and prior to start up (or attempted start up). I've been wanting to replace my distributor as some time in the past one of the threaded mounting screw holes was messed up. Thus motivating a creative mechanic to drill an tap a new cap screw location adjacent and below the original hole. Considering that the screw for the second mounting hole is not permanantly affixed to the cap and the hole itself is obscured by my KB STB... changing the cap and rotor is fairly difficult.

 

I have a '92 Formula 350. It would not start on cold, rainy days (like we had recently). It would crank over, but not start. On sunny dry days it would be fine. Having it towed to the dealer didn't help, because - guess what - it started up fine with them looking over it.

Long story short: replacing the ignition coil solved the problem.