Ok....so i've retrieved all my codes, checked them, etc. I got a code 34 yesterday...so I changed the MAFS AND the relay....i also had a code 44, so i changed the 02 sensor. I've had an updated prom put in a while ago that was supposed to correct the code 44 problem...it hasnt. I changed the MAFS yesterday....all seemed somewhat better....the problem i'm having today is that when comming to a stop or letting off the gas or actually stopping, the idle is very very low....when i step on the gas from a stop, it doesnt pick up the speed like its supposed to...there is hesitation in acceleration....but once the rpm's go above a certain point, the car pulls fine and there is abundant power. I've changed the IAC not that long ago...a few months. I did the EGR a year ago. what the h**l is going on?? I just want it to run right. I dont know what else to look at. I even changed the air filter. Any clues??

 

you said the idle goes very low... when you come to a stop does it go really low for a second or two and then surge? If it does, take a look at that IAC again, it may just need cleaning... did you clear your codes and reset your ECM? try that , drive it again and see what happens.

 

did you just change the main relay or both of them (MAF relay and MAF burnoff relay). I had a similar problem when I bought my car, and I did everything I could think of, and it turned out to be the burnoff relay.

 

when i come to a stop, the rpms go really low....the engine makes almost no sound, and it fluctuates ever so slightly...however, today, in slow moving traffic, i was just VERY LIGHTLY hitting the gas....BARELY touching the gas...just to keep us moving at 8mph....and the car was bogging...like lopeing....the only way i can explain it better is if you heard your car going "RRRRUMMM.....RRRRRRUMMM.....RRRRRUMMMM...." and you feel it jerking back and forth as you're barely moving forward....but then you step on the gas, and as it hesitates to gain speed, after around 2000 rpm, everything seems back to normal...until i have to stop or slow down again. Something just isnt right. I didnt have time to check the IAC today. And as far as the relays, i only replaced the MAFS power relay...not the burnoff.

 

I would take a look at that burnoff relay, I think they're around $15 - $20 at autozone. It fixed mine, who knows, maybe it'll do the same for you.

 

I'll look into that burnoff relay. Its still doing it today...no codes yet today though. Still acting strange and hesitating as you start to move....so we'll see.

 

Ok, i called Pep Boys.....they dont list the burn-off relay by that specific name....so whats another name for a burn-off relay? Emission control relay?? Thats what their computer said. The way the guy described it to me on the fone, sounded just like the mafs relay and and the other relays that look like it. so whats the common name for the burn off relay?

 

As far as a common name is concerned, that's what I have always heard it called by. But, to make it easier, it's the same part number as the MAF relay. I had this pic from a while ago to show you exactly which one it is.

 

Any good parts place should know what you are talking about immediately...If they don't, find another parts supplier, cause the burn off relay is it's proper name, and they are a common part to replace on these cars. Take in the part # off the relay ans see what they say.

 

I had kind of a similar problem w/my formula. I'd come to a stop and the car would want to stall out--rpm's would go so low and it would kind of chug--like a really low-almost stalling idle--sometimes it would stall out on me. Turned out it was the iac--I didn't replace it I just reset it and it solved all of my problems.
I don't remember the procedure--but I'm sure someone on here will know.

 

Just got back from my mechanic.....why the RPMs so low? Two things....first, the rotor was LOOSE under the distributor cap...he also felt a slight miss....that cleared that up. Second, the stop light switch controls the torque converter from locking up....mine was bad, and thats why his scan tool didnt get a reading from it. So for 6 bucks for that thing, it made the torque converter not lock up in overdrive when you're comming to a stop...that saved me alot in transmission work if that would have burnt up along with the clutch pack and all that fun stuff. So, for 36 dollars I had two issues resolved. One of which(rotor) I never ever would have guessed. I'm still getting the MAFS burnoff relay...should be in friday. I still feel like there should be a bit more pickup from a standstill than there is. I never knew till today that the Drive gear was more for power than the OD gear. But, for the most part, its back to normal now....until something else goes....

 

Jgifford...

Thanks for the picture by the way....I printed that up as a refernce for when I'm going to replace the burn off relay. I called all around today, and no one knew what a burn off relay was. So i called the dealer....THEY knew....read the part #right off the top of my relay and it matched...for 16 bucks, i dont think you can go wrong. Thanks again.

 

hey, no problem, glad to see everything is looking up.

 

Just got back from a midnight run...car seems much improved....but we'll see in the morning...i didnt want to wake up the neighbors with my exhaust so i didnt get on it too much. But it seems ok now. Just curious....are you supposed to/can you drive in D on the highway at 65-70, or should you really be in OD when you do those speeds? D IS more for power only, right? I just wanted to make certain of that...

 

I'm not real sure about that, I do know that driving at those speeds in D hurt gas mileage a little do to the extra RPMs, but as far as I know, I can't imagine it hurting anything, some of the older cars didn't even come with a OD, so I would assume it would be ok.

 

Sounds accurate to me....thanks again :lala:

 

When I used to mess around on the highway I'd always be in o/d(keeps rpm's down for better mileage), I'd throw it in regular drive and the rpm's would get higher(depending on how fast I was going)and then punch it--seemed like doing that gave it better acceleration.