Who has an '89-'92 TPI, (with the gray injectors), and have your injectors failed yet?

Anyone think they're worth rebuilding?

 

1. Lot's of people have Multec injectors;

2. Of course they fail - they're Multecs;

3. According to the experts, no. They apparently don't even make a good river sinker for salmon snagging. There are lots of TSBs on those injectors for coil failures.

 

I have them. I've owned the car from 104,000 miles to currently 153,000 miles and not had any problems with them. They are probably starting to leak a little since they are so old, but overall the work fine.

 

90 iroc....at 60,000 miles i lost 3 of them. i have 1 now that needs tobe replaced. sometimes the car will jus die, and i have to wait a minute.

 

Bought my car at 71k with 7 bad injectors. The b*****d got me good.

 

Hmmm, 1991 with 160,000 miles. Mine appear to be kicking *** right now?

 

Hey Vader, I've got a question for you. I remember reading a post where you said you had to replace a set of Bosh's after 18,000 miles and 9 years. You thought they got clogged from fuel evaporation and idle sitting.....but now you have a remedy for that.

Since I've just ordered a set of flow matched Bosch's to replace my fried 9,200 mile, 14 yr old Multecs....I need to know.....WHAT IS THE REMEDY?

 

Chaz,

I didn't have to replace them, but they were clogging. What happend was:

About 18K miles on '86, noticed idle roughness to 1,800-2,200 RPM where it would become less noticable. After eliminated nearly all other possibilities, had injectors "professionally" cleaned at a dealership with the fuel rail recirculation cleaner system (one of those OTC systems that connects to the fuel rails).. What a waste of time and money. It got maybe a little better, or so I thought. Since the "technician" swore that the injectors would be pristine clean after the "service", it only made diagnosis more complicated. I disregarded the injectors and started looking for vacuum leaks, ECM problems, individial plug wire routings, cylinder compression, valve actuation and sealing, etc. Basically, I was chasing my tail trying to find that "miss". I fought the problem for two seasons.

At about 24,000 miles, I performed a power balance test after disabling the IAC and EST, and thought I identified one or two suspect injectors. I finally devised a scheme to pulse the injectors while monitoring fuel pressure, and more or less confirmed my first diagnosis. I bit the bullet and pulled the plenum, rails, injectors, and sent them off to Rich at Cruzin' Performance . I marked the suspect injectors, and sure enough, the ones I suspected were off 38% and 18% in flow from the baseline. (So much for the "on-car" injector cleaning. The only thing that got cleaned was my wallet.) Rich had the cleaned and flow matched injectors back in my hands in a few days, and the car ran better than ever. I suspect the problem was fuel deposits from the long storage every winter. I've since altered my preparation, still using Sta-Bil in the tanks before storage, but also adding a quart or so of 2-cycle oil and running it through th elast tank. The theory is that the oil film (which is by design very sdhesive for a 2-stroke) clings to the injector tips. Even if the fuel evaporates, any deposits left behind are sitting on an oil film instead of bonding to the injector tips and caps. As soon as fresh fuel is sprayed through, the oil and junk washes away.

Yes, it smokes a little on startup. No, it hasn't affected the O² yet, and doesn't foul the plugs any faster. I haven't pulled the injectors for three years, and now have 48,088 miles on the little POS.

 

Thanks Vader. Instaed of Sta-Bil, I wonder if something like Seafoam would be more effective for the long winter sleep?

 

SeaFoam? SeaFoam is a mixture of oil, solvents, and water. I'm thinking that adding water for long term storage isn't a good idea. For periodic use to clean chambers and the system of carbon and such, water is great, but I don't want any water solutions hanging in my fuel system for any length of time.

The exact formula is actually pretty clever marketing of basically refinery "waste". About 50% light hydrocarbon oil (pale oil), 30% naptha, (charcoal starter fluid/mineral spirits), and 10% isopropyl alcohol, and 10% water. The alcohol mixes with the water, as does the naphtha to some extent. The cloudy, murky appearance of the liquid is due to the emulsion created by the water/oil mixture forced into suspension by those solvents.

I wish I could sell my "garbage" for $6 per sample...

 

Is there any water in Sta-Bil?