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is this possible?

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Old 06-25-2003, 11:18 PM
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is this possible?

can push in studs come loose? i have recently installed the lt4 hotcam, stock roller lifters, new pushrods, and 1.6 roller rockers. and now im hearing this real bad tapping, and when i accelerate it sounds like a roller rocker is gonna fly through my hood.

so i was thinking that maybe is a stud came up just a tad bit, it would give some clearance between the rocker and the pushrod, hence the tapping noise? is this logical?

thanks for any info.

ps. this was doing this before i installed the parts above.
Old 06-25-2003, 11:25 PM
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Car: GTA -89
Engine: Blown 415"
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt
Yes, It could happen. Buy som screw in studs.......
Old 06-26-2003, 01:44 AM
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Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45
More than likely you just have a loose rocker though.
Old 06-26-2003, 02:13 AM
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Car: '87 IROC-Z/'82 RX7
Engine: SBC 355/1.1L Rotary
Transmission: T56/5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 4.33/3.93
If you were getting a bad valvetrain noise before you installed this stuff, You shouldn't have installed them.

the LT4 hotcam with 1.6 rockers makes the lift on the cam well over .500

My push in studs came out with a lift of .470


If it was doing it before installing the new stuff, it probably isn't just a rocker loose. The only way to tell anything is to take the valve cover off and look.

HOWEVER your press in studs wont last with that cam and rockers.... not to mention your coil springs are probably binding because they aren't set up to handle that kind of lift.
Old 06-26-2003, 09:39 AM
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i replaced the springs with competitors 2300 springs when i did the cam. and the reason i installed the cam, springs, and rockers is i thought the reason for all the noise was from a bad lifter, so when i had the whole engine apart i installed all that ****. but obviously it wasnt a bad lifter thats causeing all the noise cause i just installed new roller lifters. are screw in studs hard to do? how much we talking about here?
Old 06-26-2003, 04:30 PM
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Car: '87 IROC-Z/'82 RX7
Engine: SBC 355/1.1L Rotary
Transmission: T56/5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 4.33/3.93
Well screw in studs cost $125 for a shop to do plus the cost of studs $1 a piece, and you have to take the heads off to them.

OR you can try to tap them yourself. You get studs without the nut on them. The standard screw in studs require the stud boss to be machined down flat to accept the studs.

Go to a machine shop and tell them you want screw in studs, that you're going to tap into the head with the head on the engine. They should know what you're talking about

You need a 7/16 -14 tap (I think) and an alignment block.

It takes a while, it's a pain in the *** pulling the old studs out, and when I was doing mine I broke a stud boss.

Shops told me that when GM installs the press in studs there SOMETIMES can be so much friction and heat that the stud actually welds itself to the boss. So when I was pulling it out, I pulled half the stud boss with it and now the head is trashed.

Personally if I knew that could happen, I'd just have taken the heads off given em to a shop to have screw in studs put in and for another $200 have them professionally ported. $200 is was 5 different local GOOD shops quoted me for a full port/polish.
Old 06-26-2003, 04:57 PM
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you could also just pin them. just drill a whole through the guide and stud and put a rol pin in it. a buddy of mine has done that to many a head and theyve worked out just fine with lifts up to 510(thats as high as hes gone)
Old 06-26-2003, 05:29 PM
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Car: '87 IROC-Z/'82 RX7
Engine: SBC 355/1.1L Rotary
Transmission: T56/5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 4.33/3.93
In my opinion pinning is kind of ghetto, temp fix.

I'd rather get down and in there and do it once, and not worry about pulling a pin.

Makes me think of duct tape to fix a flat tire.
Old 06-27-2003, 12:08 AM
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yeh i think im gonna tap the bosses my self and hope that a stud isnt welded to one.




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