This may turn into a long post, but I'm going to try to explain everything I've done to rule out some things.

When I first got my car a year ago (a 92 TPI 350 auto), the previous owner had a tranny set-up and the timing advanced so far that performance was seriously limited. I adjusted the timing back to 12-15 BTDC, removed the smog pump, AIR tubes, and all that stuff, and adjusted the TV cable. This seemed to help, and I remember specifically that I did not have any trouble burning rubber. I have done many logical things since then and the car just seems to get worse. At some point I traded my stock exhaust for the 200 hooker catback and got rid of the cats. I did a regular tune-up and replaced the wires with some Bosch 7mm and plugs with AC rapidfires. The car ran ok, but the rpms seemed to flutter and I wanted to fix that by revamping my ignition system (or at least try to), but before I could, my tranny went out. The tranny was rebuilt and was set up to shift really well - I love how it shifts now. After that was when I bought the ignition parts. I bought a DUI (PerformanceDistributors.com) Screamin' Demon coil and ignition module, MSD cap and rotor and Super conductor wires, new AC rapidfires, and set the timing back to base (6 deg. BTDC) to try and get rid of some detonation. I also installed a remote starter solenoid at the same time to fix my hot-start problem. I went for a test drive, and within a mile my car died - turned out the positive cable burnt through on the ex. manifold and shorted out. The car sat for a week while I was away then I came back and fixed the wiring, and finally took it for a good test drive. It didnt run any better, and seemed to be a little worse. I had someone burn me a stock PROM and used a Moates adapter with the old Mem-Cal, which was a "high-performance" brand I'd never heard of. This had no effect, and I still suspect the part of the old Mem-Cal I still have to use with the adapter. For a while, I had had some problems with the engine getting too hot before, but since the positive cable incident and installing the new ignition equipment it began to get out of control. At some point I noticed the exhaust manifold glowing by the #5 cylinder. I assumed injector went bad because a retarded timing would have an affect on all cylinders, not just one. I bought new injectors (19lb ford, or more like 21lb @ GM psi), swapped them in, adjusted my valves properly, and made sure my plug wires were in the right position, and tested the car again. It only seemed to get worse. I bought a new computer on some advice from the boards - $100, no effect. Last week, for the hell of it, I decided to advance the timing back to 12~15 BTDC. WHAMO - the car stopped overheating, and ran much better. Not really good, but like taking a punch in the gut after being kicked in the ***** repeatedly, its not great but much better than what it was. I figure something went wrong with the timing mark on the crank and "6 BTDC" was really somewhere ATDC, retarded. However, I've been driving it for a week in this "better" condition and realized that it has nowhere near the pull it used to, and I couldn't burn rubber to save my life, not even powerbraking. That's what bugs me most right now, I have no low-end power. Once I get the RPMs up it seems to run decent, but still aniemic (sp) compared to what I know it was a while back. Also, I've noticed now that it is hard to start, like its not getting enough fuel or something. Here are some notes to think about along with this info:

-The hard-start baffles me, and I don't really believe its purely due to a little less fuel coming out of the lower-rated injectors. Everybody say's they're a great replacement.
-I'm pretty sure my TPS is within range, I checked it a week ago but used analog instead of DVM
-I noticed in the injector swap that the EGR has been disconnected (vacuum line) the whole time I've got the car, which may be good or bad, but I know the car ran great at some point and the EGR system didnt work then either.
-I put the MSD Super conductors together myself but am pretty sure they're fine. I route them smartly and they dont touch each other, and each plug gets spark. These all seem to be good signs.
-I really don't know what I should set my plug gaps at. Stock is .035, guys on the board recommend .045, and the company I got my high-perf coil from says up to .060 for better economy and power - right now I'm between .050 and .045.
-I don't trust that old mem-cal. I dont know if you guys know what I'm talking about but the moates adapter uses the new PROM and half of the old mem-cal to simulate a new mem-cal with the new PROM in it. I've never heard of the company that makes it but its none of the biggies or Ed Wright, Superchips, etc. I'm thinking of getting a stock Mem-Cal and seeing what that does.
-I tried to change out my knock sensor but the edges rounded off so I dont know what to do about it, theres no room to get a good grip on it with channel locks or anything.
-I don't get any codes, except I used to get an intermittent code 43 (knock system) but it clears as soon as I restart the car?
-I replaced the O2 sensor, too, but used a lot of fuel injector cleaners to try and fix the injector - could they screw up the O2 sensor? I heard stuff like that could.
-I tried to build an ALDL cable so I could read my TPS voltage and fuel mixture the ECM is seeing and such, but I can't get it to work yet.
-I installed a fuel pressure gauge and pressure seems to be normal. Between 43 and 46 when pressured up and between 40 and 43 when running, dropping to high 30's when revving. I don't think the fuel pump or my new injectors are the problem.

That's all I can think of for now. I really hope some of you more experienced guys read this far and are willing to help out, but I'd understand if no-one read this far. This is the crap I have to think about it figure out daily. I'm really trying to avoid having to go to an "expert" (yeah right) mechanic shop where they'll charge me 90 bucks an hour for multiple hours and say "You need to get you EGR system fixed, install some cats, and install the A.I.R system and that should fix it" and I say bullcrap, ya know?

What should I try now? Thanks guys, really.

 

From how it responded to your changing the timing I would suspect that the outer ring on the balancer has shifted and is no longer accurate, assuming you set the timing the proper way with the ESC wire disconnected and the car in D.
If you are at your wits end, a balancer isn't too hard to check and fairly cheap and easy to change.

To check it, pull the #1 plug and manually turn the engine with your thumb in the #1 plug hole. As you feel the air pushing your thumb out of the hole the piston will be coming up on #1 TDC When the air stops pushing your thumb you are there, take a look at your balancer mark, is it at or VERY close to 0 on the timing tab? If not, it is time to replace the balancer.

 

If your fuel pressure is dropping when you are raising the RPM of the engine (Reving) you have some sort of fuel system problem. Do you have a fuel pressure regulator? If not, you need one. I have mine set at 50 psi. and have no problems. I'd go ahead and change the fuel filter also. Your fuel pressure should climb when you press the gas pedal not drop. Think about it. If your not getting more fuel, you can't make more power. The less fuel you get, the lower your power is going to be. Also try different gas, you may have gotten some bad stuff. If changing the gas, adding a pressure regulator, and fuel filter change doesn't help. Look at the pump. Just my .02. Good Luck!

Later,
La92ws6

 

Thanks guys, I really do appreciate your reading through all that and giving advice.

As for finding TDC, I did try that, but its inaccurate at best because I have to bump the engine with the starter. Is there a better way to slowly turn the engine without buying an expensive tool? I'm pretty sold on the idea of something being wrong in my timing system. If the timing gear on the cam was off by a tooth or two, I wouldnt be able to tell it by the balancer, correct? The distributor timing would be off but the 0 degree mark and TDC should line up even if this is so, right?

As for fuel, that is definitely another thing to look closely into. I definitely don't believe that I only have one problem. The fuel filter is new, and I have the stock FPR. I've read that it is only defective if there is fuel coming out the vacuum line, is this correct? I've played musical parts already with no effect, I can't afford to buy an AFPR just because it might work. I already blew that hundred dollars on the new ECM! I'm tempted to drop the tank just to clean it out and inspect the strainer/sending unit/fuel pump. You hear all the time about people needing to replace the pump, but what about the strainer and sending unit? Are these simple things that don't fail or what? I really don't know how to tell.

Anyways, thanks again; I hope you can answer this round of questions!

 

As for turning over the engine without bumping the starter, I used a breaker bar and a huge socket with the key off and the coil wire removed. I would hate to manualy start my car on accident with my hand on the crank!
Just about any socket you can get on any of the pulleys with a breaker bar will rotate the engine for ya..

I would definetaly find TDC on number one before i went any further

 

Do you need to have it in neutral or is it negated by the torque converter?

I just realized that Morley said to adjust timing in Drive. Is this the correct way to do it? I've always done it in park. Would it make a difference?

 

A couple of degrees, not enough to account for a loss of power.

To turn the engine over by hand you don't need to be in neutral but it will be a lot easier if you remove all of the spark plugs (no compression to fight).

For the pump/strainer. If you pull the tank and sender you MUST replace the strainer. They become fragile over time and usually start coming apart when you remove the sender (don't worry, they only cost $5).

Before you go yanking the tank out you may want to try a little pump troubleshooting. Find the fuel return line (rubber line leading to the intake) and clamp it off. Hook a pressure guage to the schrader and turn the key on, the pressure should reach near 75 PSI. If the pump can dead head 75 PSI then I would call it good.

If your timing chain slipped a tooth or two...it would keep on slipping and end in a really porked engine.

 

Ok so chances are its just my balancer out of place. Do I need any special tools (like a puller) to get it off or is it just bolts or something? Thanks. I'll try the stuff for the pump.

 

a few things, 19lb SVO injectors, doesnt sound like a good move to me, stock is 22 lbs.
sounds like ur timing is out of wack. try starting at 6 degrees advanced base timing WITH the black/tan wire unplugged, move up in incriments of 2* advance until it feels right to you. 15 degrees of base timing is A LOT.

it could be that ur not feelin a power diffence goin from 6-15 is because both timing points are not where ur engine wants to run its best. ur best bet is going to be from 8-10.

make sure ur setting the timing to the left side of the largest V on the timing index.

also when u feel comfortable take teh care to the track to do the fine tuning on it, pay attention to the MPHs to see where ur gaining for what mods ur doing.

burning rubber is not the greatest way to figure out power. something as stupid as the weather, pavement, tire pressure, tread depth etc can cause different traction situations.

 

Yes, you need a puller and installer for the balancer, most good parts stores will loan them to you (if you buy a balancer there) or rent them to you.
Before pulling the balancer get the engine to #1 TDC and make sure it has slipped.

Just unscrew the balancer bolt (big bolt in the center of the crank pulley), Take the belt ('s) off, remove the crank pulley bolts and pulley. Then hook up the balancer pulley and remove it. Remember to paint your new balancer and put a line of white paint in the groove for the timing mark. You could also put a stripe of white paint that goes from the outer ring to the inner ring. This will give you a way to positively tell if the outer ring slips again.

 

SLP IROC-Z,
I did a lot of research on the 19lb SVO's, and as far as I can tell its a good choice. I realize it will run a little lean, but not as much as you'd think. Ford rates their injectors at a lower pressure than GM. People have done the math, and at GM psi its nearly 21lb/hr. With an AFPR, which I will get eventually, it can be tuned to stock easily. I'm not worried about them at all.

As for the timing, "6 deg's" BTDC is definitely NOT right now. Its somewhere ATDC, I dont know where yet, but I'm sure of it. Considering I'd never had it that low, the balancer may not have changed at all since I got the car and its always been that way. Having said that, the car ran well with a little knock (that could be due to other things) at "15 BTDC", which I'm guessing is between 6-9 BTDC for real. I'll get it figured out and line it up right. While I'm at it I'm going to take off the timing cover and make sure its all good under there. And yes, I've been setting the timing mark behind the big V cut-out

I realize that just the idea of burning the tires is not a good gauge, but the difference between burning them in dramatic fashion anytime, anywhere, and not being able to burn them at all, ever, is very clear and disappointing. This is in addition how long it takes me to get my RPM's up to about 2000. Its WAY too long now. I have no doubt there's something wrong and I want to fix it. Thanks.

Morley,
Thanks for the info on pulling the balancer. Is there enough room in there or do I need to take out the radiator? Thanks.

 

Should be plenty of room to pull it with the rad in place.