Hey...I'm about to drive this car into a lake with how its fallin apart.

Well heres the deal...Every morning when I start my car (86 305 TPI) I have to wait a mininum of 10 min. for it to warm up. If Ijust start it and go without lettin it warm up. It will sputter/backfire and have absolutely no power. I mean I floor it and it will go nowhere just back fire like theres no tomorrow. So I let off to about 1/8 throttle and it is driveable until it warms up. So when its warmed up to about 180* it will drive ok. NOW my SES light is constantly on with 4 codes stored. which are 32,36,42,44...I think?? let me confirm(edit them in) tomorrow morning. But they are dealin with the MAF, the EGR and my exhaust running to lean... My fuel pressure is at the normal 36 psi and increases when revved. my TPS reads .54-.56...But I have swapped out 3 MAF sensors and all have been good, but nothing changes. The code is for the burn of relay. Where is that located and is there a way to check for it being ok? I had a scanner on it the other day at work and everything was kinda high so I tried dropping somethings back to stock like the timing. Its was at 14* advanced. And I know that is high but that was the only place it would run the best. So I brought it back to 8* and on the way home it had to low/mid/top end power. So I put it back around 12-14*... So with all this said plese let me know what u think is holdin up this thing. I want to check my egr tomorrow to see if anything is clogged. but please let me know what u think!!

 

Your burnoff relay is on the driverside firewall with the F/P relay. If I'm not mistaken, it;s not a very expensive part.

 

**Update** I tore the upper plenum off to get to the egr yesterday. Well I was goin to take it off and clean it but I couldnt get it off with out taking the passenger side runner and fuel rail off. So I just said screw it and put everything back together Well in doin that I found that my #7 spark plug wire had a massive rip in it. So I replaced that one and to my amazement I fount that my whole drivers side spark plus were all loose! I mean they were finger tight. Upon inspecting each plug #3 & 5 were both showin that it was running to hot and #1 & 7 had carbon deposits. So after findin both these problems I thought for sure that I would have helped somethin...Well it really didnt, the car still has no power!!

I think I might just order in the rely then....thanks man

 

Did you clear the ECM memory after you fixed everything?

 

I would check your injectors too. I had three injectors not firing properly and had the exact same problems you describe until this weekend. The reason it fires the MAF and O2 codes is becuse the MAF reads the incoming air, the bad injectors don't fire, then the O2 reads lean because of those cylinders not getting the right amount of fuel. The ECU tries to richen the mixture on the remaining injectors that are firing correctly, causing those cylinders to run rich. That explains your plug difference too...

A 2000 mile set of Ford Mustang injectors later ($80 on Ebay), the power is where it should be. Now, to resume tuning...

 

bnoon what u are sayin makes perfect sence...Never thought of it that way...is there a good way to check if there good or not?? I have heard u can do it on a volt meter, but what should the voltage be??

thank you again..

 

Set the meter to Ohms. They should measure anywhere from 14-16 Ohms of resistance. You also want to check them for fuel leakdown.

Pressurize the fuel system by turning the key on, letting the fuel pump run up to pressure, then check for pressure drop once the key is turned off. IIRC, there are tech articles on this site about that procedure using a fuel rail pressure gauge and allowing a predetermined amount of pressure leakdown vs. time. If the pressure leaks down to quickly, then you know you have some stuck injectors. Check the articles for how much leakdown is allowable.

Mine checked good on Ohms and on leakdown, but were missing the fountain tips under the pintle cap on three injectors, causing very poor spray pattern. My own fault for not knowing that the little tips were under the caps in the first place when I refurbished the injectors with new O-rings and pintle caps. Live and learn.

 

ok more update...

After posting I went out and checked real quick the # 1 & 3 injectors. #1 was 17.4ohms and 3 had 18.1ohms...I was really tight for time so I only did those 2 but I would assume that the rest are bad cause if one is, might as well replace em all...So I think I'm goin to order some new ones in tomorrow. So heres the next question...Would 22-24lbs injectors be to much??...I'm upgrading to a 350 this winter and if i'm goin to spend the money might as well get it to work with the 350 to. Is this a good idea?? I have seen others go to bigger injectors for there 305. Oh and its not goin to be a massive power maker either just more than what I have. So what do u think

 

Check all of your injectors first. You may just have a higher Ohm set than I had. Usually, a bad injector will have a lot less resistance from a shorted coil, like 11-12 or less. I don't think you've found your problem yet... Be sure to do the leak down test too though.

 

OK MASSIVE HEADWAY MADE TODAY!!!****

OK I checked all the injecters the drivers side all read from 17.4-18.1ohms, the passenger side all reads 16.5ohms Also I cleared all of my codes this morning by unhooking the battery and letting it sit for 20 mins. Then fired it back up and the damn 33 code poped up right away followed by code 36. So I went and got my spare MAF and swapped that in...Same deal, so I looked at the connection and it was full of corrotion. So I took my wire brush and cleaned it up abit. Reinstalled the old MAF and started the car back up. NO SES light!!! SO i let it run for about 10 min with no light appearing. So this is big time help, but the car still runs bad...I got a friend selling me his complete TPI system so I wanna still swap out the injectors/throttle body. Good Idea?? How do those injector numbers look to you??

 

The injectors appear to be fine from a resistance standpoint, but they still need to be checked to see if they need to be cleaned for sure. I'd go ahead and check the resistance on the new set you're getting, then get them cleaned if they all pass. That way, you have a known good set to put into your car and no more guessing.

 

Well when all seemed good today my luck ran out!! SHE BLEW UP lol.. So now I have to get a damn motor for the thing to which isnt so bad I guess but I'm goin to have the same problem once the new motor is in Thank you though for the helpful info bnoon!!! once its in I will be askin more questions ur way...