backfires, big power loss, wont go over 20 mph, HELP!,
#1
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Car: 89 iroc 350
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
backfires, big power loss, wont go over 20 mph, HELP!,
Just bought an 89 iroc 350 tpi 3 weeks ago and when I was driving it down to get it registered, I started getting huge power loss. and engine sputters, turned it off and it ran fine . problem has gotten progressively worse and now will barely top 10 mph except for the first mash of the go pedal. changed wires, plugs, cap, and rotor and car still acts the same I got gas in my oil and changed oil and still get gas in my oil. cleaned k&n's and even tested coil too I get no codes in the ecm and I have no idea what is wrong . even tested fuel pressure and all my gauges and fluids check out.....PLEASE HELP
#2
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Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
This sounds like the coolant temperature sensor to me. Could be wrong-just a suggestion. Weak antifreeze over a period of time can corrode away the end. Unknown quantity with a recently bought vehicle. Check the resistance at a given temperature.
Good luck.
Andy.
Good luck.
Andy.
#3
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 5.0L TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
I agree with Andy - it is a possiblity. Plus it is an inexpensive part!
Might also be the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor (some call it an Air Charge Temperature sensor).
I was having some intake backfire problems with my car (opposite of your problem - it only did it when cold - i.e. the first 5-10 minutes of running). I finally tracked it down to the IAT - it was reading high. Replaced it (something like $10) and no problems since.
A laptop, WinALDL and a ALDL cable can help a lot, that was the only thing that clued me into the IAT being the problem. I checked all the readings from the sensors and said "HUH?!?" when I saw the IAT's readings.
Might also be the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor (some call it an Air Charge Temperature sensor).
I was having some intake backfire problems with my car (opposite of your problem - it only did it when cold - i.e. the first 5-10 minutes of running). I finally tracked it down to the IAT - it was reading high. Replaced it (something like $10) and no problems since.
A laptop, WinALDL and a ALDL cable can help a lot, that was the only thing that clued me into the IAT being the problem. I checked all the readings from the sensors and said "HUH?!?" when I saw the IAT's readings.
#5
Oxygen Sensor?!?! Happened to mine, the O2 was so bad that the computer actually shut off 6 or 7 cylinders going down the road. I shut it off let it cool and it ran fine until it happened again. Bought a $15 O2 sensor and it's been running great since. Knock on Wood.
Sean
Sean
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Car: 1988 Monte SS
Engine: ZZ4-cammed TPI 355
Transmission: World-Class T5
I had a similar problem with my '87 TPI. My problem was the ignition module at the base of the distributor. The later model distributors with the divorced coil enjoy eating ignition modules (for some strange reason).
#7
mine was doing something like sure but it was at about 45 on the highway it would bog down and then afterfire(ignites in the exhust, back fire is when it ignites in the intake) but when i would let off and coast it would idle fine and rev up fine untill it had load back on it,( car back in od) and my problem too was the ignition control module, i had a mechanic tell me i would need a whole new dis but i just changed that and been great for months now, u might want to give that a shot
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#8
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Car: Chevrolegs
hey slayer, I think I got some help for you, I have the similiar problem with my 88 GTA. If its been a slow decrease in power to what it is now, could be a clogged cat. If thats the case try not to drive it, Ive already blown out a.i.r. hoses before finding out the problem. So just try checking it out if all else fails.
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