Okay.
Who has a 400+ cubic inch small block under their hood?
What kind of short block did you build? 5.7"rod? 6.0" rod?
Forged? Hypers?
Cams? Heads?
Timing chain? Gear drive?
Induction - MR? SR? HSR? LTR?

What worked for you?
What didn't?
What kind of tranny are you running?
Dyno #s?
Timeslips?

I'm building a 400 soon and I haven't made up my mind on what I'm going to build.

I have a SuperRam on the 350 and a good set of AFR190s.
I'm running an XE282HR cam.

I'm thinking that I'll swap everything over except the cam.
I've been eyeballing the LPE219 cam forever and now would be the perfect time to install one.

Any advice?

 

Based on my experience (read: in the midst of installing my 4th cam) and a few threads floatng around here and on the corvette forum I would stay away from the LPE 219. Start looking at something with a duration around 230+. You will get better results if you are looking for max HP and TQ.

I have no idea what the specs are on a XE282HR is, but I can tell you this:

My 400 has forged rods and pistons with a scat crank.

Induction is the SR, with the first three cams I tried using Dart Iron Eagle 200cc. Two of those cams was with 4.10s and one was with 2.73. I can definately say for sure that something with more duration and a little more lift than the LPE219 worked out best, taking account for the loss in power on the dyno going from 2.73 to 4.10. (4.10s in my opinion are way to violent for daily driving) Finally settled on a 3.42 rearend which is almost perfect.

Also I have had a T56 in the car during the entire process.


HTH some.

 

Cool!

That's the kind of stuff I need.
What'd you build for a short block?

 

71 400 block bored 40 over w/ 6" Eagle rods and JE pistons.

 

What made you decide to go with a 6" rod?

 

Main reason is becasue my block is 40 over, it just made more sense to me to go with a 6 inch rod to better that bore to stroke ratio as mentioned in Lingenfelter's book and having talked to a few machine shops. Besides the cost of 6 inch rods Vs 5.7 inch rods wasn't really a factor, so, why not go with the 6 inch.

 

lol. this thread is funny.

hey steve.. this is craig.


craig is the guy i got my Dart heads from.

funny how i know both of ya. :lala:


btw, i agree with craig.... BIGGER CAM! get a nice comp cam or isky... somthing like a 235

 

My combo as follows:
400 2 bolt bored .020, zero deck
Eagle 6" Rods
JE Flattop pistons
CSI Flexplate
Fluid Dampner
Comp Cam XE Solid Roller 242/242 .603/.572
Brodix RR200 Heads
Rossler Built 700R4
Vigilante Converter
3.70 Gear

No ET or HP numbers yet.

www.geocities.com/dzperf

 

HiTech, do you have a part # for that cam?

I looked at the CompCams 286HR.
230/230 @.050 with .560"/.560" lift with 110* lobe separation.

Good lift. Not too crazy.
Good single pattern cam.

 

Ragtop - The cam is a custom that I had Comp grind for me. My cylinder heads flow very well on the exhaust side so I went with a single pattern.

Before building the 406, I had a 383 with ported AFR's and was using a 248/248 SR again another custom grind.

I really like to keep the LSA to 112. I found a good balance of power by using a 112lsa and having the cam ground straight up. Then advancing the cam by only 1 or 2 degrees. This generally makes it easier to hook up and pull very strong on the mid and high rpm's.

www.geocities.com/dzperf

 

What kind of AFRs do you have?

What size chambers?

 

I am using Brodix RR200 cylinder heads with 68cc chambers.

 

I run a GM Bowtie block which displaces 406 cubic inches
Lunati Pro-Mod 6" rods
Lunati Forged Steel Crank
JE Forged pistons (11.5:1)
ATI Super Dampner
CSI Flexplate
Comp Cams Solid Roller Cam 248/248 615/615 on 110
AFR 210's unported (out of the box, not CNC ported)
TPIS minram
36 lb Ford SVO injectors
DFI 6

Level 10 700r4 with Precision Industries Vigilante Converter
Strange Engineering 12-bolt with 4.11 gears.

Took the car to the track in october, trans slipping really bad and converter stalled about 500 rpms below power curve and ran 11.98 @ 117.xx with a slow 1.67 60' time.

With the production 400 blocks, be careful of the cylinder walls. Also build the bottom end once and make it last. I would stay away from the LPE 219 cam as it is way too small for a 406 motor. I went with a solid roller because this is not a daily driver, although it is a street car. I drive it to and from the track and cruise around with it.

I could have went better with the heads as far as porting but this motor is destined from a procharger d-1 (already have the 9:1 pistons waiting) and I have heard/read that the improved flow you get from porting above and beyond whta the 210 AFR is now is not that helpful when not running N/A.

Hope this helped

 

Heck yeah! You have built a monster!

I'm not looking for anything that crazy.
I'm talking weekend cruiser - 10:1 compression.

Fastbird, you're car sounds sweet!
Got a link to some pics?

 

No pics yet, but I did just get a digital camera...once I figure the dumb thing out, I will post some pics of the car.

 

My setup can you see at http://hem.passagen.se/pau324

First start next week, I hope.:lala:

 

GTA324,

I looked at your webpage..pretty cool build up I must say. The only thing that I saw that rasied an eyebrow was 30 lb injectors?

Aren't they a little small for the motor you have? I run a N/A 406 with 36lb injectors.

Just curious. Should be a beast when you get her running.

 

I will not rev beyond 5500rpm so I think my #30 will be fine otherwise I'll have to bump up the FP some.....

Will change 50 or 57lbs together with $58 code when I put the blower belt on, my plan is also to change to a D1 or F1 when I have the money.....

Will update my page soon....

/N.