I took my 6-speed 355 with the Superram, SDPC vortec intake, E-TEC 200 heads, and 219 cam (Check sig for all mods) to the dyno to get some base numbers before I start chip tuning. I made six pulls with a wide band air fuel meter to give me some numbers to tune from and the best numbers the car pulled were 338 RWHP at 5100 RPM and 382 RWTQ at 4000 RPM. I ran the car from 2000 RPM to 6000 RPM on the dyno to see where the power starts to build and where it falls off rapidly. The car ended up having a very wide power band pulling more then 300 LBS of TQ from 2100 RPM to 5700 RPM. THe HP stayed higher then 300 from 4200 RPM through 6000 RPM but was dropping rapidly after 6000 RPM. The engine appeared to like lean air fuel ratio's because it pulled the best numbers around 13.5 to 1 AFR whenever I dropped the AFR in the 12's it lost power and torque?

Overall I was pleased with the results, now I need to tune a chip to lock in the tuning changes.

 

Nice numbers, right around where mine were. The power band is very broad, gotta love it. Congrats

Was this a mustang dyno or dynojet?

 

Its a nice little club we got here gentelmen! Superram Central.

However it is very important to note that the 2 newest Superram cars are both sporting Edelbrock E-Tec heads. Not trying to start a flame war but it just goes to show you that you dont have to run a $1400 set of AFR heads to get the job done with a well balanced Superram combo (this is not a jab at you Buck). $900 for my E-Tecs new shipped.

I just put down 325RWHP/440RWTQ with my SR_385_E-Tec 170 motor and ran the following at the track:

R/T____________.846
60'____________1.943
330'___________5.282
1/8_____8.079@87.91
1000'_________10.489
1/4___12.527@113.55


bjankuski

What TB are you running on that combo?

Hail the Pizza Box!!!!!!!!!!!
:hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail:

 

Those are some really good #'s, Bjankuski. The SR motors are really more fun to drive on the street than those high-rev motors.

Ominous, remember when comparing a six speed car to an auto that you're talking 5-8% more power loss for the auto. So really theoretically, Buckeye could argue that his AFR/auto combo stayed even with an E-tec/stick combo with pretty much everything else remaining the same. Of course there are too many other little factors to consider about these engines that would make this argument truly legit.

 

My dyno runs were also made on a Mustang dyno, which usually gives lower numbers than a dynojet too. I don't know whose numbers are mustang or dynojet, just stating what was used for mine. Regardless, looks as if we're all in the same ballpark and running good numbers.

These combos really are nice, they rock down low. I stay RIGHT with a friend w/ a 406/LT1/ZZ-X (239/239) cammed bird (ran 11.8 @ 118 mph) until about 70 mph, then he starts walking me.

 

In reality it is not even worth talking about dyno numbers, if they are all in the same ballpark that is all that matters, no need to nitpick.

We all ran on differnet dynos, in different temps, and who knows what correction factor was employed to get the actuall output data that is being posted. It is nowhere near an apples to apples comparision.

The only thing that matters is track data, MPH is the true indication of what a car is capable, I think everyone can agree on that.

However for my personal goal, which is an 11.9sec capable, full power option car with no sacrafice, the extra $500 investment in AFR heads and extra $350 investment in an aftermarket TB is just not justifiable or worth it in my personal situation.

The bottom line is that people need to be made aware of this information as they strive to acheive their own goals. An $800 plus savings in my book is alot to consider when buying car parts.

Again, there is no reason to start a flame war as I am sure this will turn out to be a very educational thread for those who SEEK THE TRUTH.

On a side note, we are all running a MAF.

 

Is this the SuperRam members only thread....heeeheheh!!

Nice #'s Bjankuski. Having the ability to tune your chip on the dyno is the only way. Did you play with the timing at all?

 

I am answering some of the questions that were posted earilier with this post.

The dyno was a dynojet I have never used a Mustang dyno. I have used a superflow dyno and compared it to the dynojet and they were almost identical.

The throttle body is a 52MM, I forgot to mention that part.

I did not have time to play with the timing, I have it set for a max of 31 degrees from 3000 RPM to 6000 RPM. I will burn some more chips and try to figure out a optimal timing curve.

I was running this same engine last year in my 1986 Corvette with an auto and a 3000 RPM stall. I also had 23 degree trick flow heads on the vette and a TPIS bigmouth intake instead of the E-TEC heads and SDPC intake. The vette put down 342 RWHP and 382 RWTQ as it best numbers, very close to what this combination produced. I am guessing the vette was making more engine HP because the auto takes more power to run but I am not 100 percent sure of that. When I pulled those numbers on the vette I had the torque converter locked up. If I unlocked the converter the vette would loss 10 HP to the low 330's.

The vette ran a best of 11.81 at 114.9 MPH with a 1.55 60 FT. The vette is 200 LBS lighter then my Firebird and it kills it on the 60 FT time. With some more work on my 60 ft times and gears I am expecting the Firebird to run in the low 12's at 112 MPH.

 

Thats right I coulda swore you had a 11sec car on the Vette forum.

Anyway, did you have fun bolting the SR upper to the SDPC base? I sure did, I pioneered that fiasco, LOL!

David is right about Dyno tuning, it is really the best way to see an imediate result when you dink around with your timing curve.

I tried a bunch of timing curves with the numbers ranging from 32*-38*. It ended up wanting 36*below 4800rpm and 34* above 4800rpm, on the dyno, thats only the dyno though. But it gives you a damn good idea of what close is and MPH at the track will give the ultimate indication of what is correct and what the car really wants when it is under full load. Once i get back to the track I plan move the timing around +/- 2 degrees to see what it might net me.

At the dyno I ensured that my converter never locked up at all during WOT tuning, I also ran it unlocked at the track.

bjankuski if you have your dyno file send it to me as I would like to compare it, of course thats only if you feel so inclined.


Damn nice #s your putting down now David, I had no idea you undertook that enormous round of mods to the motor. You shoulda pulled the shortblock and treated her to new bearings.

 

Well while I have everyone here.... ........

For all of you running the E-Tec 200's, did you look at the Dart Pro 1's? What were your thoughts if you did? The price seems a little better on the Darts and they seem to flow a little better so I am kinda curious.

 

rockind78

About the Pro 1s. A friend of mine has a set. He bought them awhile ago mainly based on advertising. However they are now off the motor and I am able to take a look at em. Knowing lot more now than then I can say that neither of us are impressed at all with the Pro 1 head.

1. The bowls were terrible, they had a light hand cleanup out of the box but it was nothing even close to impressive.

2. The casting boss for the valve guides are huge and very unrefined for an aftermarket head. They look alot like the guide boss that you might find in an old cast Chevy iron head.

3. They have a fairly wek exhaust port.

4. The intake port entrys were also rough and didnt come close to matching the recomended Felpro 1206 gasket

I would not buy a set.

 

Thank you Ominous, that was the type of info I was looking for actually. I have a friend who can get very good prices on Dart heads which is why I am looking into them.

 

So why did you swap heads and base? Just curious? FWIW, my setup seem to like alot of timing. I'm running around 37-38 degrees.

 

Thanks! Yep, been sloooooooooooooooooooooooowly getting some bugs worked out, but this last round sure is paying off.

I went 12.0 at 114.8 before these latest mods while pulling 340rwhp/391rwtq. We'll see what she does with another 45rwhp and 25rwtq. Also, peak power moved up significantly. The link below has my latest dyno graphs.

Dyno pulls

All graphs are corrected using a dynojet. My actual uncorrected #'s on the last dyno was 409rwhp/441rwtq. It was really cold out that day! I wish I could pull that on the corrected #'s!

Change the bearings??? Heck, they probably don't even have a couple thousand miles on them since this engine went in back in June of 2000. If I ever pull this engine, I promise a 408-412ci(4.03-.04bore/4.00strk) will make it's way back in.

 

I just kinda figured that since you ripped the whole topend down that maybe you would treat the shortblock to some LOVE as well.

Just my way of saying holy smokes he went nuts tearing that thing apart when it was still brand newish.

 

Heehhhee!! What I would to LOVE do is stuff a 4.00 stroker crank in this puppy......but at the rate I work on this thing it will never happen. Unless she happens to let go one day!!

My friends make fun of me as I'm always tearing it back down after she runs for a bit.