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Holley AFPR problems

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Old May 2, 2004 | 02:38 PM
  #1  
just2quickz28's Avatar
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From: Rhode Island
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Holley AFPR problems

ok first off i left my FP gauge at my friends garage and couldnt get it this weekend, so i tossed the damn regulator in anyways. does any one know which direction to turn the adjustment so to give it less fuel (do i drive the adjustment wheel into the regulator or take it out?)

And secondly the adjustment wheel hits the bottom of the plenum? why is that? and can i grind down the plenum a lil to get some room?

Thanks matt
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Old May 2, 2004 | 03:53 PM
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Re: Holley AFPR problems

Originally posted by just2quickz28
ok first off i left my FP gauge at my friends garage and couldnt get it this weekend, so i tossed the damn regulator in anyways. does any one know which direction to turn the adjustment so to give it less fuel (do i drive the adjustment wheel into the regulator or take it out?)
Out, just like any other regulator.

And secondly the adjustment wheel hits the bottom of the plenum? why is that? and can i grind down the plenum a lil to get some room?

Thanks matt
Why? Bad design by holley. You'll have to grind the plenum a bit to get the clearance you need, yes.
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Old May 3, 2004 | 10:05 PM
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86IROCer's Avatar
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From: My Central PA garage
Car: 1986 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Boring Automatic
I also have a Holley AFPR, but I do not have a clearance problem with mine. Theres plenty of room to turn it up or down. Wonder why theres a difference.
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Old May 3, 2004 | 10:43 PM
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Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
Engine: impulse drive
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Originally posted by 86IROCer
I also have a Holley AFPR, but I do not have a clearance problem with mine. Theres plenty of room to turn it up or down. Wonder why theres a difference.
Same here...I had the holley afpr before switching to HSR. There was no clearance issue on my 85Z28. It uses a dial to make adjustments. All the other brands you have to turn a bolt that is sticking out the top of the regulator. Those hit the plenum. Thats why I originally switched to Holley's.
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Old May 3, 2004 | 11:30 PM
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From: Fl
Car: 5.3L turbo 2800lbs RWD
Engine: Prefer 3L Iron & 5.3L Aluminum
Transmission: 4l80e
Axle/Gears: 3.512
my AFPR on my stealthram

my AFPR on my stealthram fuel rail is a PAIN in the **** to get to, even with the distributor out and the vacuum lines gone. what a stupid thing!
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Old May 4, 2004 | 11:40 AM
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Re: my AFPR on my stealthram

Originally posted by Kingtal0n
my AFPR on my stealthram fuel rail is a PAIN in the **** to get to, even with the distributor out and the vacuum lines gone. what a stupid thing!
Some guys with HSR installed their fpr so that it faces out instead of in for easier access. I installed mine according to instructions but now wish I hadnt. However, I have not had to make any adjustments on mine whatsoever! It holds a steady 40 pounds with vacuum lines connected.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 01:03 PM
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Chances are the dial is open all the way thats why its hitting the plennum, If its stuck you're gonna have to remove the plennum and close it all the way, then start over the process.
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Old May 4, 2004 | 01:33 PM
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Not all year plenums are made alike.

On my 89 plenum, no clearance issues.
I am now using a pre-89 plenum that I grinded about an inch off of for clearance.
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Old May 5, 2004 | 09:30 AM
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Installing my Holley tonight. What is the best way to break off the little tabs in the center of the torx screws holding down the cap? I'm afraid to damage the threads....

Flat screw driver and hammer?
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Old May 5, 2004 | 09:46 AM
  #10  
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Just go to Autozone or something and get the right torx drivers for those screws. They have a hole drilled in the middle of them for exactly that reason. I think the set is about $8...

Troy
So Cal
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Old May 5, 2004 | 09:47 AM
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Hmm, maybe i'll check what our local parts stores have. In the instructions, it actually says to use a small punch. I don't really like the sound of that. Do I just punch them out from the side with a hammer and punch?
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Old May 5, 2004 | 12:29 PM
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Originally posted by Steve89GTA
Hmm, maybe i'll check what our local parts stores have. In the instructions, it actually says to use a small punch. I don't really like the sound of that. Do I just punch them out from the side with a hammer and punch?
No, as mentioned you use the proper safety torx bit.
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Old May 5, 2004 | 06:26 PM
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From: North Battleford, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 91 GTA & 92 GTA & 92 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI & 350 TPI & 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 & 3.23 & 3.23
Originally posted by Morley
No, as mentioned you use the proper safety torx bit.
Just do what Morley said. I just put on a Holley APFR last month and if you use the safety torx screw bit the screws will come out easily. I did have a problem with tightening the screws in when I put it back on though. For the bottom three screws I had to put on an extra washer so the it would be screwed in as tight as possible.
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Old May 6, 2004 | 02:14 PM
  #14  
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Installed it last night. One thing i noticed is that i had to turn it in quite a bit to get the stock reading which was about 47psi with the vac line disconnected. Does that sound normal for a 305tpi? It still turns but is at the point where it won't go much higher than that (or, it is quite difficult to turn that's for sure).
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Old May 9, 2004 | 09:48 PM
  #15  
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From: Lebanon, PA
Car: 86 IROC, 04 Ram, 05 SRT-4, 95 CBR
Engine: LB9, 5.7 Hemi, 2.4 turbo, 600cc
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 26 spline 3.42's for now
47psi is an improvement over stock, but you should have that pressure with the vac lines hooked up. with your vac lines hooked up now it might be as high as 60psi or close. for a stock setup TPIS suggests running 46 psi and anything higher is more for modded engines. you really should put the vac lines on and reset ur pressure. the best way i found to adjust the regulators w/ bolts is to use a ratcheting wrench. good luck.
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